Archive through May 04, 2005

[rbedell]

Lisa H:

In comparing the two wiring diagrams of the 102 & 106, the parts you are referencing is a terminolgy issue. The Starter Solenoid and Magnetic switch are different names for the same device. This is also the same for the Switch. The Neutral Starting device is a safety feature and can be called by either name.

The Charge Indicator (or Amperage Gauge) has two terminals on it. A positive (+) and a negative (-). These are marked for the purpose of indicating the direction of current flow to & from the battery. When connecting to the Amperage Gauge, it is important that you have the proper wires on the proper terminals.

The wire terminals for the Neutral Starting Switch can easily be jumpered out with a small section of 14GA wire that has a Male Quick Disconnect Terminal on each end of the jumper wire. Then you simply plug the jumper wire into both Orange Wires to bypass the circiut.

Hope this helps,

 

[jclayton]

I have been working on my 1250, I have learned alot from reading the FAQ section and reading the postings.
I am wondering how to tell if the motor mounts need to be replaced. Is there a rule of thumb or an easy way to tell? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

 

[mnicholson]

Haven't posted in a long time. putting my K341 back together, missplaced my manual. I need to know what direction the notch in the piston faces and which way the connecting rod goes (oil hole faces). Can't wait for it to make smoke (less than it used too hopefully).

 

[dkamp]

Hey Everybody!

A few months back, Terry Busch posted photos of a lift-test of his 'one-armed bandit', and while I was it too big'a hurry to carry out the measurements, I did wait for a moment while Ann clicked off a couple'a pictures while I was moving softener salt into the house. Here's six 50-lb bags of salt, and me (213lbs) on the bucket, and it lifts and transports just fine with that load (Me AND the salt!)... and I don't even have the weight bracket installed yet...

 

[ssharamatew]

Are front wheel bearings available? Thanks Steve.

 

[rbedell]

Jim C:

I have always examined the rubber mounts to see if they decayed or worn away. Since the Q/L series was introduced in the late 70's these mounts have vibrated and worn, or had some gas spills to where they have decayed away. Either way, you should have a nice firm rubber mount if they are good. When they are not, there is a replacement kit or some other options to pursue.

Hope this helps,

 

[mnicholson]

I'm RTFM that I downloaded from the FAQ. Please forgive me.

 

[jhillegass]

Sreve S.
I talked to my NAPA store guys two weeks ago. They told me that they don't have these bearings. The Cub bearing has a small flange on the outer race. Napa doesn't carry a replacement. Atleast that's what I've been told.

 

[tcbusch]

Dave,
First of all, how do you steer that thing while driving from the loader?
Second, my wife forbids me to wear white socks with sandals. You must have the best wife in the world!

 

[rmunday]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Second, my wife forbids me to wear white socks with sandals. You must have the best wife in the world!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Ha-Ha! Got mine trained to allow it

Who's mounted a generic replacement seat (non-Cub style)?

I picked up a nice Grizzly replacement with arm rests from F&F for $59 and I really like it.

I tried mounting it using a square tube bolted to the seat springs and then the Grizly to it, that makes for a rocl solid mount but it sits too high (that extra 1" of seat height really makes a difference).

Any other suggestions?

 

[nbartee]

I need to find out if an M18S, spec. # 24506, will fit my 682 without any adapting. I think this engine was made for the 1872 which is a super garden tractor.

Anyone know?

Thanks

 

[dkamp]

Terry- Ann drove it, and I normally don't wear socks with my sandals, but decency demands that I do when I go in to work the Saturday Morning phone-shift... Decency doesn't demand, however, that I choose something other than my Imperials... so I dress for comfort.

 

[thoffman]

Rick,
Grow longer legs or try using a pisce of 1/4" flatstock.

 

[stritle]

My steering has become pretty bad. I have broken three of the four tie rod ends, so I have had enough. I took apart the front end and found a bolt being used as the pivot point. There is tremendous play because the threads go through the back hole, rather than bolt body.

Should there be a pin here, or is this correct? Seems awful loose.

My sterring gear seems tight. Thanks.

 

[rmunday]

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. Hmm, I'll grab some tomorrow. Thanks Tom

 

[rchristensen]

Steve T.
Really could use some more information here before we can help, like what kind of tractor are you talking about, and how do you use it.

Breaking tie rod ends like that isn't normal. Does it stear real hard? Are you using it on rough ground?

The older model cubs used a pin in the center cross member and the later series cubs went to a bolt. The bolt can work okay, but it should not be riding on the threaded part of the bolt. The bolt doesn't work too good on older cubs due to the close proximity of the engine oil pan to the bolt. You need to either grind off some of the back of the bolt or have just enough thread sticking through to use a 1/2 height nut if you turn the bolt around backwards.

One thought I have is how tight are the front spindels? Sometimes the grease gits old, or the insides of the spindels get rusted and the spindels turn hard, that would put a lot of pressure on the tie rod ends. Sometimes you need to completely disassemble everything and get the old grease and rust out and put in new grease to get things working.

 

[rchristensen]

Steve T.

Should have added a picture to last post.

 

[rbedell]

Norm B:

To answer your question in the exact sense - NO.

The M-18 is basically the same motor as the KT-17 Series II EXCEPT that the M-18 has Electronic Ignition and has a Oil Filter. Minor modifications would be needed to install the M-18 into your 682.

 

[svtritle]

Richard,

My Cub is a 782.

It generally steers pretty good, in fact, it seems a bit loose in the sense that when I turn the wheel to the lock, a bump will cause the wheels to turn a little further. The spindels seem loose enough when moving them by hand. I assume this center pivot bolt is too short, so I will try a longer one. The threads cause quite a bit of slop.

I do have a concern about the setting of my sterring box. Just a gut feeling more than anything.

My ground is definately rough and needs a rolling. Thanks for the info and pictures.

 

[nbartee]

Roland,

I can handle the remote oil filter & I think I'd like the electronic ignition, but is the bolt pattern the same for installing the engine, hooking up the driveshaft & installing the PTO?

Any insight will be appreciated.

Thanks