Archive through March 12, 2008

[gkarbowski]

Long time reader,first time contributor. I own a 169 that I've owned over twenty years. And recently bought a International push mower I want to restore. Anyone that could steer me to a source for parts and pictures I would be most appreciative.

And yes the snow is finally melting here in Michigan after a record breaking Feb. snowfall. Once again the Cub served me well!

 

[talbertine]

anyone familiar with a pto powered generator for a cub cadet to use in power outages. i'm just curious to the existence of it.

theo

 

[proessler]

Welcome-- Greg K

!! T Albertine <font color="ff0000">Pincor </font>made a generator that attaches to the front QA similar to 59M shredder...mounting.

 

[kweaver]

 

[kweaver]

Boredom strikes again ...

Cub Cadet
The best you can get
Whether you're a novice or a vet
The other brands are all wet
The best value for your money you can bet
Money well spent you wont regret
With a four season machine you're all set
Just so you don't forget
It's name is Cub Cadet

 

[dharmon]

Nice Ken, A poet in sheeps clothing......

 

[glippert]

Ken - I knew you can do anything shop-related (as well as a lot of other things), but I had no idea you're a poet, too. Kind of puts a new spin on an old favorite:
"There once was a man from Kentucket..."

ON TOPIC:

Having my morning coffee and browsing online to see what I might 'need' for the 1250 I'll be getting soon.

 

[talbertine]

i'm guessing these pincor generators are hard to come by these days. Or do they still produce models?

thats a new idea instead of running a regular generator just run a cub.

theo

 

[aaytay]

"There once was a man from Kentucket..."

Note to self: Don't drink coffee and read "Lips" posts in the morning. (i.e. Coffee all over the screen...)

 

[dtanner]

Aaytay,, i see you have an O ,so you might be able to help with mine. when i mowed with my O last summer i thought the drive belt behind the Kolter was slipping and i got a new belt from (digger) last week. when i looked at the drive shaft in front it looks like a bearing on the end of it, so that made me think that this could make the belt slip if it was not in proper alingment.where do i find info on my O and could i be on the right track on the bearing because the new belt doesn`t apear to be thicker that the one that is on there now. And the leak in the rear , is there a place i should look first for the leak (known issue) thanks Don T

 

[kweaver]

Theodore - I've only seen 1 or 2 actual pics of one posted over the years. I couldn't find the pics though.

Lip - You'll of corse need spare parts so you better buy another 1250

Graeme - Have you got your other one yet ?

Art - Seems you've had that problem before ... you might want to have a doctor check that out.


You guys are easily entertained

 

[dtanner]

where do i find a parts list for the clutch for my O. thanks Don T

 

[aaytay]

Don-
A couple things come to mind with regards to Originals and slipping drivelines.

First of all, you'll need to figure out if the belt is slipping, or the clutch is slipping.

Since you've got a new (and correct) drive-belt, let's rule that out. Did you get the belt good and tight per the instructions in the manual?

It doesn't have to be "Gorilla tight", just good and snug per the instructions. If it's as tight as the manual suggests, I'm betting the belt is not slipping because I'm able to pull a 10" Brinly plow in 3rd gear (in loose soil) and the first thing to slip is the actual clutch-plates, not the belt.

Next I would check to see that the clutch pedal is returning to the "full up" position. Many of these Originals have been used and not maintained for so long that the bushings which hold the clutch/brake pedal are worn out and allow the assembly to bind and get stuck keeping the pedal from returning all the way up. (Hook your foot under the pedal and pull up making sure the pedal hits the pedal-stop.)
<font size="-2">the manual says you are supposed to oil that bushing, but many people didn't so they wore out.</font>

Once you've confirmed that the pedal is working properly, make sure that the clutch/brake assembly is adjusted correctly such that when the pedal is all the way up, it's not holding the clutch in an "open" state allowing it to slip.

Again, from the manual...

In my opinion, at this point you should have found your problem, but maybe there is a clutch-component that is just plain worn out/broken. Check to see that the spirol pins that hold the cluch plates are not broken. Sometimes they'll break, but bind up enough to drive the tractor until the going gets tough, then they slip so you think it's the belt or the clutch.

If everything checks out up to this point you'll want to remove the clutch to look for something that's damaged. Look at the bushing in the center of the main drive pulley (the one with the clutch material on it) if that bushing is worn out, the pulley will wobble enough that it slips on the plates. Next look at the actual clutch material, check the pressure plates to see if they're glazed over, and finally inspect the springs to see if they're not broken/damaged.

That's all I can think of at this point. Look it over and let us know what you find. I hope this has been of help to you....

 

[acasteel]

Can someone tell me the point of this?

i found it on greed bay but i dont understand what it is

 

[bbrigham]

Anthony, Employee gift paperweight maybe ?


Theodore, here's another one

 

[dfrisk]

ANTHONY - It's a belt-buckle or stamped/forged something commemorating the fact that the IHC Canton plant was open 141 years (1842 till 1983)....probably was about 1983 when it was closed. It's since suffered fire damage to most of it.... It was one of the IH plants I delt with when I worked at FARMALL....so one Sunday Wife & I drove down to visit beautiful downtown Canton, IL. The plant's main office was right on the south side of the central downtown's "Town Square" or park... It was about the ONLY employer in Canton. Generations of families worked there. Very good friend of Mine from Farmall worked there in Production Control for close to 20 yrs....His Dad was Captain of the Plant Guard.... Canton not only built plows but they did almost ALL the really heavy steel fabrication work and welding.... They made the frame rails for most of the later FARMALL's. I really doubt they made much for Cub Cadets....steel's WAY too thin.

 

[klejeune]

Paul Bell probably knows about the Plow Works casting. I think I've read that when the foundry starting up to get everything going they would start pouring small stuff like the Cubs and Cadet statues so if there were casting flaws from startup they weren't on production parts. The IH foundry in Australia even had some kangaroo statues. They handed them out on special occasions and to factory tour groups and dignitaries. There is even conterfeit Cubs and Cadet statues on eBay every once in a while. I've read that they are 1/8" smaller due to copying the casting or some such. The seller even put a patina on them to make them look old, or paints them. One guy bought one knowing it was a copy so he had one to compare to make sure he was buying a real one at shops and shows.

I think Paul is away from a PC for a while or he'd have more accurate info.

Keith

 

[digger]

Anthony C.
I can't show the rest of this here, but!!!!!!

 

[klejeune]

I just got back from the local Case industrial dealer with a gallon of Hytran Ultra for the 100. Stuff sure is cheaper than the Cub Cadet hyrdostatic fluid or whatever they call it. Cub Cadet $5/qt vs. Hytran $13.77/gal.

I changed the float level on the 100 carb and put the bowl gasket back in and no fuel pouring out the overflow. I had the float set level with the bottom of the carb when it was upside down when I rebuilt it, but I guess for some reason this one needs to be a little lower to shut off the fuel.

Can someone measure the inside width of a 70/100 hood for me? Mine is missing the hood brace and I want to weld a temporary one in there to keep the hood vibrations down. The 100 is pretty quiet if you hold the hood clamped to the pedestal with you hands, but makes driving real hard

 

[rrschmitt]

Anthony/Dennis,

The Canton works also made other tillage equipment such as disc harrows (models 480, 490 and 492). I think they built some planters and cultivators too. I remember seeing the Canton plant listed frequently on our monthly dealer order status we use to get from IH for any tillage equipment we had on order. Dennis, thanks for your insight into other things Canton did like the heavy tractor frame rails. I expect they did quite a bit of fab work for East Moline as well for the combines. I was always impressed with the front axle beams on the Axial Flow combines which appears to be thick formed steel plate, bent into a rectangular box beam shape and then welded down the seam. It would take one large brake press to do that.

The previous issue (December 07) of Red Power Magazine had a good article on the history of the P&O plow company and it's beginnings.

Back on topic, the temperature finally seems to be warming up here in Kansas so it is about time to take the snow blade and chains off the 149 and get the tiller mounted up for tilling the garden.