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Archive through March 11, 2004
- Thread starter lsimpson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
R
roundy fendered cubs rule!
Guest
Question:
I got my k161 running yesterday after I rebuilt it. I think that's the trouble. It runs but seems "slugish". Could the timeing be off or is it something else. When I took the crank shaft out I didn't pay attention on where it was on the gear for the cam shaft. But I thought I did it correctly according to the Kolher manual. Is there something I can look at? To change the timeing do I have to pull the crank shaft again?
I could sure use your help.
Thanks!
I got my k161 running yesterday after I rebuilt it. I think that's the trouble. It runs but seems "slugish". Could the timeing be off or is it something else. When I took the crank shaft out I didn't pay attention on where it was on the gear for the cam shaft. But I thought I did it correctly according to the Kolher manual. Is there something I can look at? To change the timeing do I have to pull the crank shaft again?
I could sure use your help.
Thanks!
F
farmall gray
Guest
Keith E,
My 149 had the crossmember cracked like that.
The pedistal was also cracked at the bolt holes where it mounts to the frame. I figured it was from someone using the grille for a battering ram.
The grille pushed the hood against the pedistal and the pedistal pushed at the top of the steering column. It could also be from using the steering wheel as a grab handle for getting on and off the tractor.
My 149 had the crossmember cracked like that.
The pedistal was also cracked at the bolt holes where it mounts to the frame. I figured it was from someone using the grille for a battering ram.
The grille pushed the hood against the pedistal and the pedistal pushed at the top of the steering column. It could also be from using the steering wheel as a grab handle for getting on and off the tractor.
R
roundy fendered cubs rule!
Guest
Paul, Thanks I'll check that out.
I finally got my creeper gear handle put on.
Thanks Tim D.!
I finally got my creeper gear handle put on.
Thanks Tim D.!
C
cubconnection
Guest
Kent O.
Been to the Winimac IN show several times was there in 1990 at the First anuall Red Power Round Up. It is a real nice show and show grounds have not been there for a couple years because of conflicting shows but would like to go again. We are about 70 miles from there.
Kent S.
That looks like one nice original (Great job). I agree with Paul sounds like you might have dirty points or point gap off. Try cleaning them with a dollar bill when closed to get off any oil residue. As long as you have the marks lined up on the crank and cam, at the right time it should be fine, it is easy to get the 7hps and early 10s with the spark retard style comp. release off 180 degrees if not carefull, but they normally wont start if this happens just pop and spit out the carb.
Wont be on here much for the next week or so gwtting ready for the IH spring Round Up Show this comming weekend. Hope to see alot of you there.
Been to the Winimac IN show several times was there in 1990 at the First anuall Red Power Round Up. It is a real nice show and show grounds have not been there for a couple years because of conflicting shows but would like to go again. We are about 70 miles from there.
Kent S.
That looks like one nice original (Great job). I agree with Paul sounds like you might have dirty points or point gap off. Try cleaning them with a dollar bill when closed to get off any oil residue. As long as you have the marks lined up on the crank and cam, at the right time it should be fine, it is easy to get the 7hps and early 10s with the spark retard style comp. release off 180 degrees if not carefull, but they normally wont start if this happens just pop and spit out the carb.
Wont be on here much for the next week or so gwtting ready for the IH spring Round Up Show this comming weekend. Hope to see alot of you there.
jrichardson
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- jason richardson
Kent, the Original is looking great. Goodjob. I need to replace the bearings in the creeper that I am going to install on my resto-project.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
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- Home of the Plow Special
Kent-
The Original looks great! Where did you get those old looking dealer decals that are on the pedestal????
Wyatt-
That engine block looks nice. Looks like it has slip-plate on it. I know a guy with a 125 who could use a slip-plated engine...
;-)
The Original looks great! Where did you get those old looking dealer decals that are on the pedestal????
Wyatt-
That engine block looks nice. Looks like it has slip-plate on it. I know a guy with a 125 who could use a slip-plated engine...
;-)
I spent part of the afternoon @ my brother's house welding up the QL frame. Found even more cracks after I power washed the frame. It'd been awhile since I've done any welding - took a few beads to get things going again. He's just gotten a new Miller model 210 (I think that's the number, anyway.) Nice welder. The frame's repaired and I added a few beads here and there to make sure it'll stay in one piece.
Spent the balance of the day in my shop tearing down a couple of engines. The plan is to combine the electric start bits of a QL K241 and a 149 K321 to get a QL-worthy 14hp. I got a little worried when I discovered the K321's already been punched out to .020" over. We'll have to see if a clean up will work or if the bore's straight enough to accept the .030" overbore. I haven't seen the crank yet - if it's already .010" under I could be screwed. You'll have that from time to time, I guess.
In any case, it was a great afternoon putzing in the shop.
Spent the balance of the day in my shop tearing down a couple of engines. The plan is to combine the electric start bits of a QL K241 and a 149 K321 to get a QL-worthy 14hp. I got a little worried when I discovered the K321's already been punched out to .020" over. We'll have to see if a clean up will work or if the bore's straight enough to accept the .030" overbore. I haven't seen the crank yet - if it's already .010" under I could be screwed. You'll have that from time to time, I guess.
In any case, it was a great afternoon putzing in the shop.
R
roundy fendered cubs rule!
Guest
Thanks all.
Art,
I had sign/decal place make them. I wrote down what it said before I blasted it. Then I took a pic of my decal on my 73 and took some measurements so they could remake the one for the Original. I think it turned out OK.
Art,
I had sign/decal place make them. I wrote down what it said before I blasted it. Then I took a pic of my decal on my 73 and took some measurements so they could remake the one for the Original. I think it turned out OK.
Art-
That paint's 1200 degree ceramic coat from an off-the-shelf can. I didn't heed the advice that Dave Kirk gave in his "Killer Kohler" writeup about not doing the paint baking in the oven, but as the oven began cooling down I stuck in one of the wife's candles, a cookie smell. When she got home she'd have sworn that I made cookies and no trace of Kohler left in the oven.
Keith-
If you're in the "more power" mood, the Midwest Super Cub 14hp piston is a .030 over piston, 1.125" compression height if you want to go the long rod route
That paint's 1200 degree ceramic coat from an off-the-shelf can. I didn't heed the advice that Dave Kirk gave in his "Killer Kohler" writeup about not doing the paint baking in the oven, but as the oven began cooling down I stuck in one of the wife's candles, a cookie smell. When she got home she'd have sworn that I made cookies and no trace of Kohler left in the oven.
Keith-
If you're in the "more power" mood, the Midwest Super Cub 14hp piston is a .030 over piston, 1.125" compression height if you want to go the long rod route
Wyatt:
Do all my own valve work. Buy all my supplies from Goodson. Most racers also buy their stones, dressing diamonds, clutch surfacing wheels and mandrels from Goodson.
Have had good luck so far.
I use an older Sioux grinder outfit. Use on all my racing engine work.
Dickering with a local guy for a Horizontal/vertical mill so I can do the seats and surface the heads next.
If the mill deal jells,, I will have everything in house to do all my engine work except line bore and balance.
I just did a valve job yesterday. Still have 8 cubs that need rebuilding. Am doing all my good Cubs this year. Have completed 1-1200 and 1-1450. On the second 1450. Next is my 129 and then the 102. Also work on my pulling 30 cid in between. Have a little time to do since I was putting them off when I was a racing official. Now that I have retired from that, I can do more with the cubs.
Do all my own valve work. Buy all my supplies from Goodson. Most racers also buy their stones, dressing diamonds, clutch surfacing wheels and mandrels from Goodson.
Have had good luck so far.
I use an older Sioux grinder outfit. Use on all my racing engine work.
Dickering with a local guy for a Horizontal/vertical mill so I can do the seats and surface the heads next.
If the mill deal jells,, I will have everything in house to do all my engine work except line bore and balance.
I just did a valve job yesterday. Still have 8 cubs that need rebuilding. Am doing all my good Cubs this year. Have completed 1-1200 and 1-1450. On the second 1450. Next is my 129 and then the 102. Also work on my pulling 30 cid in between. Have a little time to do since I was putting them off when I was a racing official. Now that I have retired from that, I can do more with the cubs.
Frank-
I was looking to get a mandrel and a couple cutters and stones to do the valve seats on my warmed up K321. Was hoping that I'd find someone who's done it to clue me into the part #'s to order, I've got the catalog, but in .PDF form there's a lot to look through. I could just pay someone to do them, but I'd just rather do it on my own, even if I mess it up the first time. The intake valve I'll just probably order custom so the seat will already be OK, and the exhaust will likely be a stock Kohler stellite valve.
I was looking to get a mandrel and a couple cutters and stones to do the valve seats on my warmed up K321. Was hoping that I'd find someone who's done it to clue me into the part #'s to order, I've got the catalog, but in .PDF form there's a lot to look through. I could just pay someone to do them, but I'd just rather do it on my own, even if I mess it up the first time. The intake valve I'll just probably order custom so the seat will already be OK, and the exhaust will likely be a stock Kohler stellite valve.
Wyatt, excellent idea for masking.
Travis, um, could I get a copy of the photos via email? How about if I say "PLEASE" TIA
)
Bryan, I like the "pothole in the information superhighway" analogy.
Charlie, the manual arrived Saturday I've scanned it and it will go out in todays mail. Thanks.
Dave K2, 'nother cool project. Cute kid!
Jeff R. CUBGRATULATIONS to you and the Mrs. shes a keeper!
Kent S., I still can't believe you painted that with rattle cans, excellent job.
Travis, um, could I get a copy of the photos via email? How about if I say "PLEASE" TIA
) Bryan, I like the "pothole in the information superhighway" analogy.
Charlie, the manual arrived Saturday I've scanned it and it will go out in todays mail. Thanks.
Dave K2, 'nother cool project. Cute kid!
Jeff R. CUBGRATULATIONS to you and the Mrs. shes a keeper!
Kent S., I still can't believe you painted that with rattle cans, excellent job.
DAVE KAMP - When I bought paint at FARMALL all the 2150 red enamel came from Moline Paint, NO Imron, but on a 40+ yr old tractor it's hard telling what Wyatt's dealing with trying to strip. The 1961 Cub Cadet My Dad bought new and traded for a 70 the first spring they were avail. got repainted red/white by the dealer in Cambridge, IL. I keep figuring I'll see a picture of it here sometime. Last Dad told Me the Person out south of Cambridge that bought it in '64 is still running it.
Also, the E-COAT paint system FARMALL put in in '81 was designed to use paint supplied by Sherwin Williams in Chicago. I never heard what happened to that system but after 23 yrs I suspect it's been scrapped.
The salvage place You mention must be MILAN SURPLUS. There used to be a place based in Rock Island that got all the really good IH stuff back in the early 80's. They also had a building right across 3rd Street in Moline from the old HACKER TIRE store about 2 blocks east of where JD Commons is now. My Buddy's in Inventory Control @ FARMALL would let Me look at all the lists of stuff the salvage places were getting. Wished I'd have had a few more $$$$$ back then.... That stuff would be pure GOLD now. I think that place was called INDUSTRIAL SALES or something similar.
Also, the E-COAT paint system FARMALL put in in '81 was designed to use paint supplied by Sherwin Williams in Chicago. I never heard what happened to that system but after 23 yrs I suspect it's been scrapped.
The salvage place You mention must be MILAN SURPLUS. There used to be a place based in Rock Island that got all the really good IH stuff back in the early 80's. They also had a building right across 3rd Street in Moline from the old HACKER TIRE store about 2 blocks east of where JD Commons is now. My Buddy's in Inventory Control @ FARMALL would let Me look at all the lists of stuff the salvage places were getting. Wished I'd have had a few more $$$$$ back then.... That stuff would be pure GOLD now. I think that place was called INDUSTRIAL SALES or something similar.
Engine sheetmetal:
Anyone know why it changed in the mid-late '60's??? I've noticed on at least through the 1x2/1x3 tractors, probably a little later, the sheetmetal wrapped all the way around the "jug" and the shrouding on the head extended all the way to the edge of the head, not just covering it to the spark plug.
Anyone know why it changed in the mid-late '60's??? I've noticed on at least through the 1x2/1x3 tractors, probably a little later, the sheetmetal wrapped all the way around the "jug" and the shrouding on the head extended all the way to the edge of the head, not just covering it to the spark plug.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
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- Oct 31, 2002
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
A quick PSA...
A member saw fit to forward a "CNN announcement" about "the worst virus ever".
This hoax has been passed around since 2000. Ignore the e-mail if you get it.
http://www.snopes.com/computer/virus/card.htm
A member saw fit to forward a "CNN announcement" about "the worst virus ever".
This hoax has been passed around since 2000. Ignore the e-mail if you get it.
http://www.snopes.com/computer/virus/card.htm
