Archive through March 08, 2013

[dtanner]

Art ,thanks, I do have three long belts. one is new and two slightly used ones also. I got them two years ago when I got the other tiller missing the tine cover. I will have lots of parts . This is rusty and will need some paint . I thought the 149 would work good with the hyd lift. The long belts I have were for a 147

and hope the 149 would take the same belt ?

 

[dfrisk]

RON - Typically things like larger battery boxes, things that were hard tooled weren't "options". Changes like that were done as running changes on ALL tractors. Compared to the BIG Farmall's the option list for CC's was tiny. Mostly just elec. starting on the 7 HP, bigger tires & lights on everything. IH did have quite a few "Dealer Installed" accessories, but back in the early days, Dealers at least around where I lived kept the CC's on the show room floor pretty basic. Things like the add-on hyd lift, creeper, spring assist for the 3-pt, etc all fell into the Dealer installed accessories list.

I have an early '63-'64 steering console off a 70/100 sitting next to a '65 console in my shop right now, and the newer battery box was considerably narrower/smaller. I've never really been around a 71/1X2/123 so I can't comment on how big/wide their battery box was, but I really doubt a wider box was an option. I do have a 123 chassis behind the shop for parts I could measure. The Group #26 batteries, 8-3/16" wide, I use in my old GD NF's would not fit in the stock '65 battery box, but will fit in the earlier one fine, and the #26 battery is a snug fit in the box on the 72. I'll measure the 123 later today and see how it compares.

 

[wshytle]

I got on the 149 yesterday and it's still doing the same "hard to initially start" thing. I have to choke it then take the choke off several times before it will start and stay running. As I've mentioned before, I've gone through this engine and it's in great shape. After she starts and warms up a bit she will start with just the turn of the key for the rest of the day. There's no smoke even on start up. I've double checked the timing because she will backfire a time or two on the cold starts. The carb has been gone through as well. I lapped and reset the valves when I originally went through it and it has a new head gasket.

I'm just stumped as to what it could be causing these hard starts initially. It seems like it wouldn't run as well as she runs after the warm up if it was something drastically wrong. The electrical isn't charging at this time but I'm sure that's just the v/r. I put it on a charger ever so often so I can use her.

Anyone with any ideas as to what I might look into? I'm sure it's something simple.

 

[kostendorf]

Me too on the hood support.

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle

Did you check the arc springs ? does it roll slow? If the arc is not working it will roll over slow and that might be causing the hard to start.

 

[jchamberlin]

Wayne: Your problem (read "opportunity") may be heat-related and electrical, not mechanical. I'm concerned that your battery isn't being charged. Have you opened up the Voltage-Regulator and checked it out, cleaned the contacts, etc. and basically performed the maintenance described in the Service Manual? Have you checked to see if your generator is capable of producing 16 volts or so? The reason I ask is that the voltage regulator mechanically switches coils in the Starter/Generator in and out of the circuit depending on the voltage/current present in the charging system. I'm wondering if one of the contacts that is supposed to be open when first starting is closed draining current/voltage from the ignition coil resulting in a weak spark. The status of the connections may change when everything warms up.

Just wondering if you had turned that stone over. If you haven't, that's where I would start. Perhaps by putting a voltmeter on the positive terminal of the coil while starting cold, and warm.

Another angle may be that you've done such good work on the engine that it is "tight" until it is well warmed up.

 

[wshytle]

Don-

It spins very freely both cold and warm so I don't think it's the ARC.

Jeremiah-

I'll look into the v/r a little closer. It has to be something weird like that I'm sure.

 

[mgrier]

Need some help. I have a 1979 1450 i bought last spring and the engine wash shaking. so, I pulled the engine to repplace the isolator mounts. I discovered that all the mounts were loose and the engine was leaning to the left. After I pulled the engine I discovered that the crankcase has been worn down on an angle on the LH side (see picture attached). There appears to be plenty of meat left. Just need to figure out some sort of spacer to take up for the missing material. Anyone have any ideas or seen this before?

 

[kostendorf]

Marty, I just went through the same thing. I used a 1.00 end mill to spot face pads down to .910 You have to be carefull not to break into inside of oil pan. Each one may be different. Need to use caliper to check how much you can remove. Then build it up with washers to 1.060 which is what the pads should be. I used Jb weld to hold the washers together. Then you will have to trim so the bolts can be loosened and tightend with a socket. I did this and it worked great. Then I found a cast iron one on the internet and used it instead but the one I repaired should work fine. I'm keeping it for a spare.