Archive through March 08, 2013

[kostendorf]

Harry that is a cable I put on to keep the hood from opening all the way and damaging the nose and grill. I do have the aluminum cast front end but not the 1" axles. Only 3/4" It was made in June 1977. the engine is also 1977 which you would think they go together but I can't prove it because the engine is missing part of the sticker on the shroud.

 

[kostendorf]

 

[hydroharry]

Keith - no way to prove the engine goes with the tractor even if you had the whole sticker. Kohler only identifies the year built in their sticker. You can "somewhat" guess a month once you gather alot of others for comparison like Art is doing for the 169's and I think 1650s. Have you sent his your tractor and engine serial numbers?
Also, one of the guys came up with a hood support stop to keep it from opening to far. I thought it was pretty neat but didn't see much more about it. I tried several different cable things but never like any laying on the muffler box, etc. Guess I should check thru the archives to see who came up with the hood stop and when. Maybe Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos will pick up and use his zoom search method to find it. It was so nice I figured it might even get picked up as an aftermarket production by someone and they sell a thousand of them (yes I thought it was that good). Would work on the 1x8/9 series as well since the hood and nose are pretty much the same.

 

[dschwandt]

I have found 2 diferent sytles of ground wires on my QLs so far. one is a #6 wire with 3/8 terminals that connects via one starter bolt to the C/I nosepiece. These are associated with the wire harness that is routed along the frame up along the starter shroud to the VR & Coil.

The other, on mine at least, are as described earlier mounted with 7/16" studs on the firewall lower bolt with the other end fastening to the midway engine shroud bolt. These ar associated with the wire harness that is routed straight through the FW protected w/a grommet. This is the only QL I have w/alum nosepiece. One could compile a list of ser #s w/build dates I suppose to further narrow down the date of this change as well as the change to thye alum nose.
Dave S

 

[tbdavis]

Harry - not sure it's the one you're talking about but ran across a pic of a neat hood support from 9/21/12. It's pretty slick!

 

[dfrisk]

RAY Van M. - re battery boxes on NF's. The early 70/100's had a big battery box. And I think it was some time in '64 the reduced the size so only the small L&G sized batteries with the "L" shaped terminals would fit. The later NF's, 71/1X2/123/72/73/1X4/1X5/1X6/1X7 kept the same smaller box.

I find a Group #26 battery still fits in the small battery box and lasts 3-4 times longer than the L&G batteries.

 

[nmercer]

I have a question for anyone here, I cannot seem to locate anything about this in my books so I will have to throw this out and see if anybody knows. how do you advance or retard the timing on a 12hp kohler? I assume that it has to do with the points but do I set them to open sooner or later? What is the max/min?

 

[dkirk]

Neil,

The larger the point gap, the more advanced will be the ignition timing. Conversely, the smaller the gap, the more retarded the timing. With a new engine, .020 point gap results in about 18 degrees BTDC ignition. As parts wear, especially the points pushrod cam, the timing will become more retarded. I've found that point gaps from .016 to .024 will usually get ignition timing to be within spec, as referenced by the flywheel SP timing mark. Hope this helps.

Dave

 

[kostendorf]

David, Thank You for selling me the ultimate ignition system. It works great. I set the timing while the engine was out with a volt meter and then with the pointsaver when I reinstalled the engine. Both methods were right on. Exactly the same. Question is my points are set at .026-.027 thousands. What would be wearing out or why is the gap so wide? The engine runs great.

 

[bjamison]

Spent a little time looking at some 73 pics and it looks like it has a similar dash tower assy, steering wheel and PTO lever set-up as my 122. Question is - is the hood from a 73 identical to the 1x6/7 series tractors and is the dash tower assy the same on a 73 as that on a 122.

I'm thinking again of possibilities between the 122 and 126. I like the steel dash tower assy on the 122, but prefer the front grill/hood of the 126.

Also the frame on the 122 above the drive shaft, in front of the seat is in perfect shape, whereas the 126 has been bent-up somewhat where it looks like someone needed more space to get into the drive shaft pin. Maybe I can use the 122 frame on the 126.

Much to ponder....

 

[pbell]

I believe the hood is the same, but the dash tower/pedestal is not because the drive shaft tunnel is taller on the 122

 

[dkirk]

Keith,

Thank you for letting me know you like the Ultimate Ignition System. What's causing your wide point gap phenomena is the points pushrod cam has probably worn, and you are having to compensate by opening the point gap to restore (advance) the ignition timing. Don't be concerned, there is no harm, either mechanical or electrical, in running a gap this large. Main thing is the timing is correct.

Dave

 

[kostendorf]

Thanks again David.

 

[jbaker]

Goint to replace this bar soon, out of curiosity what grade bolts are used on these?

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff - those bolts are "IH" stamped head graded carriage bolts. 100 pointers. Now if you're gonna use it for pushing, well I suppose some standard carriage bolts will work.

Terry - thanks, I'll look back for that in the archive.

 

[nmercer]

David

Thanks for the info. Now if I can just figure out why I have absolutely no power, just tried to start it not five minutes ago and I have no power at all and the battery checks out fine.

Neil

 

[thoffman]

Jeff,
Has it been flipped yet? I can make it out. The cutting edge isn't taking on much perssure standard carriage bolts will work, but if you're in doubt grade #5 will be plenty.

Neil,
Check you ground.

 

[jbaker]

Yes , already flipped it once thanks on bolt info

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff - actually if you're gonna use it for pushing why don't you get yourself a piece of 3/8" flat stock, drill the holes in the correct places, and just use regular bolts. The original cutting edges are a little light and I'd keep your new one for a 100 point restoration project (especially if you still have the original IH stamped head carriage bolts in the current blade - even if the back/bottom of the threads are wore into the nuts).

Matt G and Richard C - are you out there?
This is the hood support I mentioned in a message below. Matt G posted the pic on 9/21/2012 and said it was by Richard C a few years ago. Did anyone ever make these available or copy and produce. Looks to me like it is on a Quiet Line but would also work on the 1x8/9 series. I'd like to have one at least.

 

[nmercer]

Tom

Just came back inside it is too darn cold outside right now and the wind is blowing about 35 mph, but I did figure out what my problem is with my tractor, the electric PTO switch is going bad so I just ordered a new one from CC specialties. should be here by wed. I'll get all the bugs out of this thing sooner or later.

Neil