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Archive through March 06, 2010
- Thread starter ahance
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
i have a cub 72 that i put a k241 runs and drives great new 360 cranking battery changend out the generator the regolater seems to look good all the wires seem right but when you turn the key it turns very slow like a dead battery is this a chargeing problem any help with this .thanks
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Peter: I guess it's my turn, again:
You'll find that one of the biggest problems (the one to look for first) is grounding. If your connections are all clean, starter generators (S/G) can get worn out over a period of 40 years. (Can't we all?)
You'll find that one of the biggest problems (the one to look for first) is grounding. If your connections are all clean, starter generators (S/G) can get worn out over a period of 40 years. (Can't we all?)
Today I bought my fourth Cub Cadet. This one is the 'newest'. From the original owner I got a 682 with a KT17 Series I engine, which just had a tune-up.
Once I got the 682 home I checked out the engine, removed the sheet metal surrounding the engine and pulled out a coffee can full of mouse nest stuff from the cylinder head fins. Later on I'll replace the Hy-Tran fluid and filter.
The 682 runs fine though I'm apprehensive because the Series I engine isn't lubricated if you run them on a slope. Supposedly the oil runs away from the pickup and starves the engine of oil. Does anyone know which side the pick up is on? And supposedly you're safe running one direction on a slope but not the other, but you can avoid the low oil lubrication problem if you add an extra pint of oil.
All the above is what I've gleaned from the internet but I don't know what is nonsense and what is the truth. Any advice?
Once I got the 682 home I checked out the engine, removed the sheet metal surrounding the engine and pulled out a coffee can full of mouse nest stuff from the cylinder head fins. Later on I'll replace the Hy-Tran fluid and filter.
The 682 runs fine though I'm apprehensive because the Series I engine isn't lubricated if you run them on a slope. Supposedly the oil runs away from the pickup and starves the engine of oil. Does anyone know which side the pick up is on? And supposedly you're safe running one direction on a slope but not the other, but you can avoid the low oil lubrication problem if you add an extra pint of oil.
All the above is what I've gleaned from the internet but I don't know what is nonsense and what is the truth. Any advice?
Art H.
The only difference is in the shift lever. The one for a narrow frame is short and on model's with the taller transmission "tunnel" like the 102/122 and up, there is an extension used. The lever for the wide frames is longer and is oriented/indexed differently inside the creeper housing. If it is used in a narrow frame tractor it will rub/scrape on the side of the slot in the tunnel and will hit the end of the slot before the shift is complete. You can heat it and reshape it, but it is easier to just replace it with the correct one. The levers for both were still available a year or so ago, but I don't know if they still are or not.
The only difference is in the shift lever. The one for a narrow frame is short and on model's with the taller transmission "tunnel" like the 102/122 and up, there is an extension used. The lever for the wide frames is longer and is oriented/indexed differently inside the creeper housing. If it is used in a narrow frame tractor it will rub/scrape on the side of the slot in the tunnel and will hit the end of the slot before the shift is complete. You can heat it and reshape it, but it is easier to just replace it with the correct one. The levers for both were still available a year or so ago, but I don't know if they still are or not.
Roy,
The KT17 SI does not have an oil pick, only pressurized systems have oil pick up (series II). The oil is splashed around by the moving parts, mainly the crank shaft. This is the parts break down for the series I, no oil pump and pick up.
I would always keep an eye on the oil level and look for an oil additive that actually reduces friction and wear. I hear Cermax does just that.
Maybe the sponsors above carry it?
Jim
The KT17 SI does not have an oil pick, only pressurized systems have oil pick up (series II). The oil is splashed around by the moving parts, mainly the crank shaft. This is the parts break down for the series I, no oil pump and pick up.
I would always keep an eye on the oil level and look for an oil additive that actually reduces friction and wear. I hear Cermax does just that.
Maybe the sponsors above carry it?
Jim
My 682 tossed a rod a couple years ago 1 owner since new.When I called Kohler about a replacement engine the guy I talked to could not believe it was the original motor!Told me it must have been pampered because this engine didn't last long otherwise.If I remember correctly he quoted me 1900$ for a replacement engine.I'm repowering with a 16 HP Briggs. My serial number is 20509 34674069 I'm not sure of the year It was my father in laws and bought new from the local IH dealer
Roy,
This is the lube to use.
https://secure.cermatechnology.com/
I'm doing the best I can Charlie.
Jim
This is the lube to use.
https://secure.cermatechnology.com/
I'm doing the best I can Charlie.
Jim
Jerry M.
The 1050, 1606, 1806, and 1535, all built by CCC/MTD. The housing was extruded aluminum, but the internal parts were the same as the cast iron creeper that IH used, and the shift lever was the same as used in the wide frames.
The 1050, 1606, 1806, and 1535, all built by CCC/MTD. The housing was extruded aluminum, but the internal parts were the same as the cast iron creeper that IH used, and the shift lever was the same as used in the wide frames.
Jim P.
Thanks but your wasting your time, I got hammered years ago for promoting Cermax snake oil.
But since I quit using MMO and went to only Cermax, I have better luck with little to no carbon buildup after 3 years with the same plug AND the same oil! LOL
It also takes most all of the whine out of a hydro.
But hey! that's ok with me, as I know how well it works on everything that has moving parts.
Including my main Cub hauler Tahoe with 275,000+ miles on it that burns no oil and starts at 45 below!
And every Cub I own has been treated, even the one's that I've been told they needed overhauls 5 years ago, LOL
Thanks but your wasting your time, I got hammered years ago for promoting Cermax snake oil.
But since I quit using MMO and went to only Cermax, I have better luck with little to no carbon buildup after 3 years with the same plug AND the same oil! LOL
It also takes most all of the whine out of a hydro.
But hey! that's ok with me, as I know how well it works on everything that has moving parts.
Including my main Cub hauler Tahoe with 275,000+ miles on it that burns no oil and starts at 45 below!
And every Cub I own has been treated, even the one's that I've been told they needed overhauls 5 years ago, LOL
Peter H.
What you have described is somewhat hard to follow.
Help us, help you - by taking time to better describe your problem, we need many details.
The more info the better. If pictures are a help by all means do post.
Take your time in fully describing you troubles.
Jim
What you have described is somewhat hard to follow.
Help us, help you - by taking time to better describe your problem, we need many details.
The more info the better. If pictures are a help by all means do post.
Take your time in fully describing you troubles.
Jim
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
I checked parts look up but could not find a part number so my question is on my k301 cub128 there are two clips that bolt to the engine cover to hold the coil wire mine seem to have been coated with a thin rubber in areas
mgwin
Well-known member
Matt,
Looks like you have your work cut out! Are you going to restore it, or just get it running? Either way, congrats!
Looks like you have your work cut out! Are you going to restore it, or just get it running? Either way, congrats!
JEFF B. - I don't quite understand your question about the two wire clips on your K301 in your 128. BUT it sounds like Your missing those wire clips. If You look in the hardware section of a GOOD hardware store, there should be small cabinents stocked with those types of clips. Don't bother looking in a BIG BOX store, the smaller well stocked stores is where you'll find them.
Depending on the condition of your CC's wiring, they make the vinyl-coated steel or nylon clips, I keep a few of each type around, there's less chance of a short due to the nylon version wearing thru the insulation of the wire. I've also wrapped the wire with electrical tape, or slit a piece of rubber fuel hose to slip around the wires when using the metal version.
In most IH parts books those clips were considered "small hardware" and not listed. Not sure how that stuff is cataloged in the electronic parts system.
Depending on the condition of your CC's wiring, they make the vinyl-coated steel or nylon clips, I keep a few of each type around, there's less chance of a short due to the nylon version wearing thru the insulation of the wire. I've also wrapped the wire with electrical tape, or slit a piece of rubber fuel hose to slip around the wires when using the metal version.
In most IH parts books those clips were considered "small hardware" and not listed. Not sure how that stuff is cataloged in the electronic parts system.
I just picked ap a 582, IH model with cast rear end. Runs kinda ok, compression reads 80 cold, didn't think to check hot,spark seems a little low(not sure how to measure), but if you let it idle, can pull 1 plug wire off and it tries to die, but when pull other 1 off, doesn't make a lot of difference, also seems to be blowing gas out of carb throat when idling, any help would be appreciated
Francis
Francis
