Archive through March 01, 2004

[digger]

Kraig,
It's on the way to me!!! As soon as I get it, I'll fire it off to you.

Art,
You really should check the antique stores more in Hudson, grin

 

[aaytay]

Charlie-

 

[kmcconaughey]

The part number on the implement lift relief spring is/was SU-3102301, sorry I don't have a photo of it.

I believe this is the weight Bracket that Ryan was referring too, it's model# 443.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Fred S., does your lighting setup look something like this one? I forget who's Cub Cadet (a 127 I think) this is. I would worry a bit about the heat from the exhaust on the plastic housings but perhaps it isn't an issue. This type of light housing is readily available at Fleet Farm and many other stores as utility lighting they use the 35 watt sealed beam lamps that are in the factory lighting system.

 

[KevinX]

Dan C. -

The "parts CD" that some folks have can get the dealer that hands it out in DEEP S**T - to the point of losing their ability to sell Cub Cadets and likely any other MTD equipment if word gets back to MTD.

You can certainly do what you want...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kenny M., OK I'll let you know when I finish with Art's stack 'o' stuff and I see Charlie is sending me another item to scan.

Charlie, I'll be on the lookout for it, thanks!

 

[ddillon]

Good morning, can anyone post a detail of the steering for a 100, my parts manual is difficult to read the small parts. Thank you.

 

[digger]

Bryan 'n' Bob,
UNLESS the dealer in question has gone out of business and had an auction. At least here in Minnesota they allow auctioneers to sell company OWNED property IE:Cub Dealer CD's and the like, with no recourse on the seller as long as the item or CD is out of date, Go Figure!

 

[sblunier]

Wyatt,

I see nothing wrong with chasing threads with a quality tap and die set......you should know if you are taking off metal or just cleaning threads if you have any experience with using a tap/die. I would rather see them chased then have someone cram a stud/bolt into a dirty gritty hole.

My whole point about the use of anti-sieze/oil (whatever) on threads was that the process of torquing the fasteners consistantly is more important than the small variation in the actual value that the lubed threads might create.

The spec is 25-30 ft lb.......your spec is "reduce by 10% for lubed threads"......so my way could be 3 ft lb high...well within the tollerance range.

I won't argue that chasing taps, certified torque wrenches, etc. don't have their place in this world. But, for the guy who is just de-carboning the head on his Kohler and reinstalling the gasket with a beam style torque wrench, oil/anti-sieze, 3 ft lb variation, chasing taps etc. isn't going to be as significant in the final outcome as a good, consistant procedure for torquing down the head.

my $.02, YMMV, IMHO, whatever else applies, etc etc etc

 

[kmcconaughey]

David D., is this what you're looking for?

 

[lsimpson]

help , I broke the tractor
I don't know what the part is called , but I would discribe it as a shift fork. Remove the shifter plate and the shift ball goes into a arm on the right that moves gears it is attached to a rod . That broke . how do I get it off and where do I get a new one or do I just weld back together .

 

[dkirk]

Steve B.,

I use your method exclusively in all my engine work. Also, Anti-Seize is a must on spark plug threads, especially in aluminum heads. Many manufacturers now recommend lubricating screw or nut threads prior to torqueing. Provides consistancy to torque values.

 

[aaytay]

Larry-
Sounds like you broke a shift-fork. By the looks of your profile, it looks like you own what is referred to as an Original. You'll need to unbolt the four large bolts that hold the tranny to the front half of the frame. Slide off the reduciton housing from the front of the tranny.

At that point you can loosen the bolt on the broken shift-fork and slide that "rail" out of the front of the tranny and the shift fork, allowing you to replace the bad one.

 

[lsimpson]

Thanks for the help , I think I can get it apart and back together with this info , is there a part number that I ask for , and some place to buy from .
Larry

 

[wcompton]

I was dead-wrong about oiled threads on Kohlers:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hmmm that doesn't agree with Myron....
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Torque correctly in proper sequence & then after engine is hot - RETORQUE in proper sequence while engine is still hot.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Or has that also changed like the soaking of the gasket?

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

The idea is to let the gasket "settle in" after a full heat/cool cycle. The initial heating of the gasket causes it to "flow" a little more than just the torque alone, so they want you to go back and check it after it's seen some engine heat.

I typically torque to 30 ft lb first and then find them at 18-20 ft lb after it heats up and cools down once.

 

[rchristensen]

Just add a few comments to the torqueing info. which has been great. I agree that getting the bolts all torqued the same is important and the retorquing is even more important. Get all the bolts torqued the same, run it and let it cool down and check and you won't find two bolts alike. Retorque and run it again and then check after it is cool and they will all be real close. I usually do it three times and let it cool overnight and by the third time I don't think they will change. As far as retorquing with the engine hot or cold it probably doesn't make that much difference, I have always done it cold and never had any problems.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, I understand that but Myron wrote:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

............while engine is still hot.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[rleo]

Aw schucks Wyatt. I just got done cuttin and pasteing your oiless method in my "how to" engine archive. . .