Archive through June 29, 2009
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Matt S,
Using the parts lookup link at the top of the page, the front hole on the drive shaft uses a 1/4"D dowel pin so the hole should be 1/4"D The hole on the hydro input shaft is also 1/4"D for spirol roll pin.
Using the parts lookup link at the top of the page, the front hole on the drive shaft uses a 1/4"D dowel pin so the hole should be 1/4"D The hole on the hydro input shaft is also 1/4"D for spirol roll pin.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Matt S.-
I hope you gas welded that, or you'll have fun re-drilling the hole
I hope you gas welded that, or you'll have fun re-drilling the hole
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Dennis F. I remember that plunger trick with big tractors. It would have to be a little baler. Otherwise after about ten bales on the wagon you would have to stop and get another wagon. Do you remember the people that show up at fairs and threshing events with the little stationary balers then make little straw bales? That would have to be about the right size for a Cub Cadet to pull. Then you would need a thrower and thrower wagon.
Kendell I. Someone with the talent to make the rest of the baler should be able to make the knotters. If you go to the Froehlich, Iowa area there was a gentleman now deceased named George Erbe. In the early 1970s he made a 9/16ths scale McCormick Deering tractor. It was either a 15-30 or 22-36 that ran like a top. He made other scaled projects that actually work. That caliper of person wouldn't have any problem making such a baler.
..... (Dan Hoefler.....hint hint).
Kendell I. Someone with the talent to make the rest of the baler should be able to make the knotters. If you go to the Froehlich, Iowa area there was a gentleman now deceased named George Erbe. In the early 1970s he made a 9/16ths scale McCormick Deering tractor. It was either a 15-30 or 22-36 that ran like a top. He made other scaled projects that actually work. That caliper of person wouldn't have any problem making such a baler.
..... (Dan Hoefler.....hint hint).
cgraninger
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Matt G.
Try to rig up some way to pull it...
I personally put a 3/8" eye bolt with a few fender washers (gonna have alot of force) into the "H" pattern.
I then placed the whole shifter in a bench vice with wood to protect shifter plate.
I then used a ratchet strap to other end of bench and kept tightening until it came out.
Hope that helps...but basically it take serious pulling.
Charles
Try to rig up some way to pull it...
I personally put a 3/8" eye bolt with a few fender washers (gonna have alot of force) into the "H" pattern.
I then placed the whole shifter in a bench vice with wood to protect shifter plate.
I then used a ratchet strap to other end of bench and kept tightening until it came out.
Hope that helps...but basically it take serious pulling.
Charles
lpalma
Well-known member
Craig Carney
The 70 is a March of 64 ser#79584
I got it running today. It has no muffler and it burns oil so it was loud and smokey(Like a Grateful Dead concert).I still have to separate the clutch plates so I can take it for a ride!!
All I need is a recoil start for the 72..
The 70 is a March of 64 ser#79584
I got it running today. It has no muffler and it burns oil so it was loud and smokey(Like a Grateful Dead concert).I still have to separate the clutch plates so I can take it for a ride!!
All I need is a recoil start for the 72..
1st post; I hope it is in the right spot; I have a Quietline 1200 that I dismantled 2 weeks ago for clutch replacement; snowballed on me; kept finding more and more parts to replace; driveshaft flex coupler ball bushing rag joint and on and on; now I don't remember how it all is supposed to be reassembled; I have it together but a couple things dont look right; I dont wanna do this job twice! especially it is not my machine.
PS; in the meantime I rebuilt/rebushed the carb replaced a couple tires and welded up a few bad spots in the deck.
PS; in the meantime I rebuilt/rebushed the carb replaced a couple tires and welded up a few bad spots in the deck.
Matt G., here's how to get part #10 out. Posted by
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) (Tshushereba) on Thursday, June 17, 1999 - 08:11 pm:
Hi Don and Harry-
When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.
The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful abour which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) (Tshushereba) on Thursday, June 17, 1999 - 08:11 pm:
Hi Don and Harry-
When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.
The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful abour which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
John C., hmmmm, I've never heard of anyone having an issue with the starter/generator belt. Is the driven pulley (the big pulley on the front of the engine) firmly attached to the engine. Is it at all bent? The proper part number for that belt is IH-401960-R1.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Here's me this morning:
Don T., your "glob and suction" comment was right on! Last night I bolted the 123 back together but left the linkage and driveshaft for this morning. At 2am I woke up wondering if maybe I'd left the paper towel that I'd used to sop up the last of the old oil in the bottom of the rear housing in there when I refilled it. Long story short, I did. It's embarassing to admit it, but maybe it will keep someone else from making the same dumb mistake!
On the up side, I was able to take the top cover off, reach inside, and the towel came out in one piece. I found this tractor already has a neoprene pump gasket, and have become quite adept at splitting and putting a narrow frame back together. A small floor jack on wheels and jack stands are a great help. I'll be back this afternoon with pics of my modified-for-me 123.
Thanks to all who tried to help, not believing someone could make such a dumb mistake!
Don T., your "glob and suction" comment was right on! Last night I bolted the 123 back together but left the linkage and driveshaft for this morning. At 2am I woke up wondering if maybe I'd left the paper towel that I'd used to sop up the last of the old oil in the bottom of the rear housing in there when I refilled it. Long story short, I did. It's embarassing to admit it, but maybe it will keep someone else from making the same dumb mistake!
On the up side, I was able to take the top cover off, reach inside, and the towel came out in one piece. I found this tractor already has a neoprene pump gasket, and have become quite adept at splitting and putting a narrow frame back together. A small floor jack on wheels and jack stands are a great help. I'll be back this afternoon with pics of my modified-for-me 123.
Thanks to all who tried to help, not believing someone could make such a dumb mistake!
Frank C glad you got that Cub all sorted out. I have done that same thing . Helped to put head gaskets on a Buick once and had to leave before the job was finished and well they left the rags in the intake ports.S%%%t happens to the best of us lol .
Paul E Gunns ,
Also, where do yous run your carb screws? Book says like 1 turn out on the high and 1 1/2 turns on the low? Sound right? because I am out 2 1/2 on the low, 1 1/2 high to get it to run/idle.
Per K Service Manual
Also, where do yous run your carb screws? Book says like 1 turn out on the high and 1 1/2 turns on the low? Sound right? because I am out 2 1/2 on the low, 1 1/2 high to get it to run/idle.
Per K Service Manual
bbrigham
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Frank...I used to work at a snowmobile dealer in the winters putting together new sleds, fixing customer sleds, and working on the shops race sleds. One day I pulled my V-Max 4 in the shop to go through the carbs and when I took it out for a test run down the road it didn't run right....<u>real rich</u>. Long story short....I seemed to left all four main jets on the carb table
Needless to say I got a lot of very deserved
for the rest of the season
Finally a few hours of no rain so I'm gonna try to get some Cub time in, need to get the sickle bar done on the O.
Needless to say I got a lot of very deserved
Finally a few hours of no rain so I'm gonna try to get some Cub time in, need to get the sickle bar done on the O.
OK guys, I know I never post unless I have a question.... This time it's different. I have a DOH!!!!
I found that I had a broken bolt for the Oil Breather stud, and used an EZ out on it.
Now, I have a broken bolt WITH a broken EZ Out in it!!!!!
I have been told that it would take between 200 and 300 $$$ to get it out.....
Can I just drill and tap some holes on the edge of this cover and do it that way? And if so, where should they be placed?
Sorry, no pics, my camera is in NY with my daughter.....
Thanks in advance....
Randy
I found that I had a broken bolt for the Oil Breather stud, and used an EZ out on it.
Now, I have a broken bolt WITH a broken EZ Out in it!!!!!
I have been told that it would take between 200 and 300 $$$ to get it out.....
Can I just drill and tap some holes on the edge of this cover and do it that way? And if so, where should they be placed?
Sorry, no pics, my camera is in NY with my daughter.....
Thanks in advance....
Randy
Randy, not sure if it'd work on the oil breather stud, but on head bolts some have had good success tack welding a nut or bolt onto the remains of the bolt/stud to get them out.
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