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Archive through June 26, 2017
- Thread starter gloughery
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
gloughery
Well-known member
While my 169 hydro and brake fixes are on hold I started working on my 122 clutch. I use it to pull a lot of heavy trailers of firewood and kiddie barrel rides in festivals. I may send the clutch plates to Brian for resurfacing and get a new fiber disc. AND, I was thinking of upgrading the driveshaft pressure spring from OEM to red (800) or even yellow (1100). But Matt Gonitzke posted (April 10, 2008) concerns that the extra thrust load of these stronger springs may cause excessive wear on the creeper gear. What must I be concerned with and/or replace if I go with the stronger springs? Thanks again!
mfrade
Well-known member
George L., The extra pressure from the spring tends to cause deflection / flex in the pedal and components, eventually breaking the metal at the lever pivot mount. At least that was my experience.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
George-
My concern is with the input shaft bearing on the creeper; it is not a deep groove bearing, so putting large thrust loads on it may shorten its life. It has been awhile since I have had a creeper apart, but there might also be a snap ring ahead of the bearing on the input shaft that has to take that thrust load. At one time I had looked and was unable to find a deep groove bearing of the same size to put in there.
With a rebuilt/new clutch, a stock spring should be sufficient for 12 hp. I'd try the stock spring first and not bother with a red spring unless you really need to. I wouldn't even consider a yellow spring for that size engine.
My concern is with the input shaft bearing on the creeper; it is not a deep groove bearing, so putting large thrust loads on it may shorten its life. It has been awhile since I have had a creeper apart, but there might also be a snap ring ahead of the bearing on the input shaft that has to take that thrust load. At one time I had looked and was unable to find a deep groove bearing of the same size to put in there.
With a rebuilt/new clutch, a stock spring should be sufficient for 12 hp. I'd try the stock spring first and not bother with a red spring unless you really need to. I wouldn't even consider a yellow spring for that size engine.
gloughery
Well-known member
Mike/Matt, great comments. I will stay with the stock parts on the 122 clutch and get back to work on my 169 hydro and brake problems. Thanks for your input.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
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- Harry Bursell
Larry - well if you get all the parts to the electric lift you're gonna have your work cut out for ya. It almost certainly failed and the guy didn't want to put the money into a repair. I'd probably just stick with the arm strong lift myself. You already are spoiled with the 149 hydraulic lift. How would you ever adjust to using that little flipper switch on the dash.
Wayne - the guy that worked that tractor over must have been in the hospital and came out with half a brain. I seen alot of screwball repairs but you sure got the winner.
I was still sorta hoping you'd post a pic of that throttle linkage you talked about. I still can't picture what the issue was. I know the narrow and wide frames use a different style linkage for the carb to governor, but both are pretty simple. Just be careful you don't loose that little E-clip for the wide frame style. It's easier to just un-snap the linkage arm from the ball.
Wayne - the guy that worked that tractor over must have been in the hospital and came out with half a brain. I seen alot of screwball repairs but you sure got the winner.
I was still sorta hoping you'd post a pic of that throttle linkage you talked about. I still can't picture what the issue was. I know the narrow and wide frames use a different style linkage for the carb to governor, but both are pretty simple. Just be careful you don't loose that little E-clip for the wide frame style. It's easier to just un-snap the linkage arm from the ball.
Hydro-
My main problem and mission for today is getting the d**n flywheel off. I have used pullers, heat, a brass hammer, and it hasn't budged. I really wouldn't be surprised to find something like epoxy holding it on.
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My main problem and mission for today is getting the d**n flywheel off. I have used pullers, heat, a brass hammer, and it hasn't budged. I really wouldn't be surprised to find something like epoxy holding it on.
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gloughery
Well-known member
I am replacing the manual hydro relief valves in my 169 with self relief valves, and I see one of the sponsors sells Sauer Danfoss Relief shim kits. I am ordering new O-rings, do I need shims for the relief valves?
Wayne-Had one like that. Did the same. Found out I just needed a bigger hammer on the end of the puller. I took it off the bench and put it on the floor so I could get a good whack at it.
