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Archive through June 21, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well the Tractor Cade was a wash out!! 2+ inches of rain in about 15 minutes this AM pretty well put the kibosh on it. It cleared up about 8:30 and we struggled to get the whole gang posted along the scheduled route just in time to see 5, count 'em five tractors roll by plus a few folks in pickups pulling trailers. Oh well...not to worry, the Giant Cycle Cruise by was also on tap for later in the morning and I thought all my little fellers and fillies would get a kick out of seeing all the shiney equipment that not only looks good but unlike them, can go fast. So we scrambled to get the gang relocated to my front lawn time just in time to see the lovcal Fire Department escort about 500 or so cycles down the hill and through town.

Many thanks to my Wife, Granddaughter and next door for helping me pull this off.

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Dave S,

Great line up! Sorry about the rain.... Maybe you can have a redo in the fall.

Tom,

Shouldn't the rebuild shop your using be able to get all of the those specs from the old unit? After all, the would have to know what all of that stuff is to put it back on... You should just be able to hand them the old one and say "fix this". You shouldn't have to do half the work for them. Unless its the. Half price.
 
Lewis do-da Palma

I had a guy email me to my shop about replacing the charge pump seal and bearing. He said he refilled the tractor and could not get any hyd pressure.It was hard to tell someone that the pin witch does not show up in the parts drawing is there if you take a working charge pump off. I told him if he had fluid and the pin was in place the only reason he had no hydro movement was because he mounted the charge pump upside down. I did get an "oh my" you were correct I had the charge pump upsides down and now it works great.The more I learn about these tractors I see parts like the swash plate that has three roll pins and the parts diagram shows two only. This place has been so great for me and the treatment I have gotten has help me that I can help others with there tractors. Thank you guys !

I will be Changing my picture to include all my Cubs later this summer. It will take some work to get them all lined up for the picture. Attachments also if I can get them together. lol I must have 12 pr IH wheel weights . I think I show 6 Cubs and I might have 15
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Thank you DO_ DA
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David Schwandt

That is a fine looking bunch of IH tractors. Nice work .I would like to see all your Peter Built`s also. I did some running myself when I was young and you got to love a Cummins.
 
One last post after my 169 note.
David Schwandt.
This guy is awesome. I sold him his first Cub maybe a year ago. He is having fun, the family is involved, I and I bet he is not sending whiny e-mails to Charlie.
Stop down sometime Dave, you are always welcome.
 
Hey Guys... Watch this!

DON T. - I've WALKED home more from driving Cummins powered trucks than ALL other brands of vehicles combined. Granted, I've driven Cummins powered trucks well over a million miles. But I've had two Cummins blow up on me. My 903 V8 took on water thru a leaking intake manifold and bent two conn rods, and a Shiny 290, 855 CID-6 welded an exhaust valve in a valve guide while running home empty one afternoon running about 62 MPH.

Only CAT's I've ever run were 3208 V8's. And there's been many 2-stroke Detroits in all kinds of configurations, mostly V6's and a couple V8's and in-line 6's. Drove a Maxi-dyne 237 Mack one day and THAT was enough. Five gears was NOT near enough, nor was only 237 HP, I don't care HOW much torque rise it had! The truck that actually surprised me the most was the old '78 FleetStar IH with 478 CID gas V8 & straight 5-spd. Would run 60-65 MPH loaded to 40,000-50,000# gross depending on weather... Tail wind really helped. Got just a bit over 3 miles per gallon of gas, and used a quart of oil every 175-200 miles and had 100,000 miles on an in-frame engine overhaul, and about 250,000 miles on the whole truck. After running an hour or so at maximum speed both exh manifolds would be glowing orange hot even after I slowed down and stopped.

But enough talking trucks & Cummins. How about taking Kohler's? About 18 yrs ago I went thru a spell where I was using auto parts store ignition coils, mostly from Farm & Fleet. After running about 30-45 minutes the coil would get hot and the engine would die. Half hour later the engine would start and run another 15-30 minutes. I was about half done mowing my yard and had BOTH the 72 & 129 dead in the back yard. My personal record for failed coils in a day is THREE. All on the K181 powering my lawn vac. One was pretty amazing, got so hot the oil inside the coil boiled and was gushing out like a geyser. Had to put a new set of points & condensor on after that coil burned up. The contacts on the points were almost welded together.
 
Quick question (Dennis you may have give the answer with your remark about coils and heat) - I was mowing this evening with the 126, working it pretty hard for about 1 hour. When I finished, I dialed the throttle to 1/2 for the trip back to the shed. The engine started hesitating like it was running out of gas and then died. I tried to start it and could get it to fire with the choke on, but it ran about 30 seconds and that was it.

So - I let it set for about 30 minutes and came back, it fired on the first crank and I drove it to the shed.

The quick question is - what would make this tractor just stop after going to half throttle? My first thought was, hot engine next to a gas line and when I went to half throttle, less heat was being blown off the engine and more radiant heat off the block might have caused the gas to boil in the fuel line? I also thought about maybe the position of the voltage regulator above the engine might be a little toasty - but the symptoms seemed to me to be lack of fuel. Dennis' remark about the coil might be the problem. Coil is next to the hot engine too.

Any ideas?

BTW - mowed today with this 126 in 1st gear. I've been down in my back this last week and while 2nd gear gets a lot of grass cut FAST, I'm wondering it the bumpy ride ain't helping my aching back. 1st gear today made for some smooth seat time. I need to make an adjustment to the brakes. Unlike my 109, when you mash the pedal, neutral means freewheeling and that ain't good!

Also used the 109 today too. My middle son mowed with it. He seems right at home with that mower.

Under Edit: David S - I see you have no fear of those modern QL tractors. Very nice looking fleet of tractors!
 
BILL - Yes, it could be the coil getting hot and breaking down, hense no spark. They make "Spark Testers", but I use my inductive powered timing light to test for spark in situations like that. When the engine dies and won't restart, hook the timing light up, just two clamps on the battery and clip the third lead to the spark plug wire and crank the engine over. If you have spark the timing light should work. Could be the condensor too.

If the timing light works then you have a gas problem. Could be gas vaporizing in the fuel line or carb. I run rubber fuel tubing on all my CC's, it's more resistant to vaporizing (known as vapor lock) inside the line than the OEM metal lines used on the older CC's. The other thing to check is that you have a 1/4" thk plastic heat isolator between the carb flange and the block casting. The isolator should have a paper gasket on both sides of the isolator, and I use some sort of gasket dressing on both gaskets to prevent vacuum leaks.

And if all of that checks out, look in the tank and make sure you have gas in the tank.
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Dennis Frisk

Well I have a cummins powered ram 1995 , I tow my fiver with. I turned down $14000 for it last winter and there are about 8 Fords newer than mine for sale here for under 7th. So I wounder why they sell so cheap after 300000 km. No many trucks sell for any money with that many klm. The chv duromax is about the same for a poor price with just a few kl on them. If you read any of the blogs you know a second gen Ram with a Cummins 5.9 12 valve are getting big $$ and are sought after.


Bill - I bet the exhaust valve could have hung up also after the change in heat after you let the rpm`s fall. Do you run MMO ?
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I'm really starting to wish I had opted for a Ram 2500w/Cummins but I still like the '11 Hemi powered 1500 Laramie Longhorn I picked up last fall w/12K on the clock. I can get 17mpg+ on a trip if I watch it.

Just had a call the other day from the guy that bought my last Cummins powered KW. He's pushing 700K now w/nary a problem on the ISX 565.
Although it did lay down on me when new w/33K on the clock. Dropped a valve. Warranty covered the whole of it plus down time. That was the one and only time I have ever been on the HOOK! 6 trucks over 30+ years and close to 4 million miles, all Cummins powered, since I don't own a buldozer.

Dave S.
 
DON, DAVE - Not to get too off-topic, but between my Dad & I we have over a million miles on 903-V8 Cummins powered trucks, Dad put over 400,000 miles on a single tractor, plus many more miles on other tractors. His were in IH 4300 FleetStar's & I put over half a million miles on two '79 RoadBoss II's w/VT903's. Dad's tractor was a V903, no turbo, think it was either 270 or 290 HP, mine was 320. Both my tractors ran the same loaded but the second one seemed "peppier" empty and had less electrical problems. Dad's had a 9-spd Road Ranger, mine had a 6-spd Spicer... Not near enough gears, a 9 or 10 spd RR would have been much better. Dad's lost a waterpump and threw the fan thru the radiator and got parked for a while, then sent to the home depot for his co. My tractors got re-po'd. Guess the co. I drove for was way late on too many payments, but at least my pay checks didn't bounce. The water leaking into the intake manifold was the only problems either of us had. Dad's had a LOT of hours on it because he hauled fuel & fertilizer and had to run the tractor often to run the PTO to pump off his loads.

I also ran 555 V8 Cummins in ready-mix trucks one summer. Engine was rated 208 net HP, less than my 7.3L PSD, and the 5-spd Allison A/T was not the right choice of transmission, but the 3-spd Brownie helped. 200 HP in a 52,000-54,000# truck is WAY under-powered. But they were better trucks than the '66 White's with 165 HP 6's & 5+4 transmissions. Mixer trucks sit around and idle for hours, then get run as hard as they can go for 30 to 60 minutes. Hard duty for any engine.

So yes, most of my Cummins experience is with the V8's, I'll take the higher HP and more gears anyday over the in-line 6's. Especially if I'm not buying the fuel. They do seem to be more thirsty than the 6's for similar HP.

The last tandem tractor I drove was a '78 IH S2200 w/290 & 10-spd R-R. It was tired, most days it would only run 55-60 loaded with a tail wind. When you get paid by the loaded mile you want something that runs faster than that!

The co. I drove for had lots of IH TranStar's. Some with 6V-92 TTA Dtroit's & 9-spd R-R's. Half a dozen with Big Cam 350's & 10-spds. My White with the 903 would hang right with the Detroit powered trucks but fall well back from the 350 powered trucks. Later they got some TranStar's with 13-spd R-R's, I liked that transmission, a gear for EVERY situation.

I like the 903's, lot quieter in the cab than anything with a Detroit, and even quieter than a TranStar with a BC 350. And the back half of the engine in my White was less than a foot from my right foot planted hard on the gas pedal, the rear half of the engine was in the doghouse that extended 2/3rds of the way to the back wall of the cab.

Most of my driving, like 95%, was in short nose conventional day-cab tractors, no sleeper bunk. I had a bed at home, I didn't need another one in my truck. That way if I got someplace and couldn't get loaded the co. paid for my motel room and a couple meals.

I enjoyed driving, glad I did it, glad I'm not doing it anymore!

If I had to buy a new 3/4 or 1-ton truck right now, it'd probably be a RAM w/Cummins. Only one of the Big 3 that offers a manual trans anymore, I don't care for the 4WD system, too many years of great service from my manual hubs & manual T-case in my Fords tat you can still get, but only with the automatic trans. But no more miles than I drive my old '96 F250 4WD PSD every year I'd have to get a gas engine. But my old F250 has right at 301,000 MILES.... not Kilometers. Still runs like new. But with $4/gal. fuel around here I try not to run it any more than I have to.

Anyhow, back to CC's, It was two yrs ago I think I "smoked" the mule drive belt on my 982 & 50C deck while mowing some 1-1/2 ft tall grass in my back yard. Had blue smoke rolling out the grill from the belt slipping on the PTO pulley. The belt had frayed a little and I though it was going to have a short life after I smoked it so I bought a new $50 replacement belt. Well, that old belt is still running just fine. Wish I could put a 5/8" mule drive belt on the 72 & 38" deck. Maybe it'd last more than a year. The new mule drive belt I bought a couple weeks ago is wider & heavier than the one I got 2-3 yrs ago. Just like Charlie said, people must have complained and MTD changed the spec's.

Paul R. & I missed the SEVEN and a half inches of rain west and south of here yesterday. Wes H. may have got more than the 1-1/2 inches Paul & I got. More rain predicted each of the next five days too. Reminds me of 1993, I'd drive a CC across the yard mowing and the ground was so soft the tires would leave depressions, and five feet behind the tractor the dpressions would fill with water.
 
BILL - Not a fan of MMO. I bought a bottle 6-7 yrs ago and ran a cap full or two in each tank of gas in the K241 in the 72 for a couple mowings. When pulled hard the exh valve would still hang up, not enough to kill the engine but enough to let you know it.

I richened up the main fuel needle about 1/8th of a turn and that fixed the problem.

When I pulled the engine down when I put the K321 in the 72 the exh valve stem had hard shiny carbon deposits everywhere that would be inside the valve guide. They were taking up all the clearance and when the exh valve got hot it would stick. Not sure if MMO removes carbon but I know IH low Ash oil does.
 
Dennis F - Hmmmmmm - you got me thinking. I need to check the carb again, it might be running a bit lean. The engine seemed to be pretty hot (not glowing exhaust hot like a stuck valve), but again I was running it pretty hard - mowing some tall thick grass. Interesting comment regarding MMO. I just started using the stuff a year or so ago in my gas. I thought a bit of top end lube might be a good idea - figured it couldn't hurt. I've never really heard any negative comments on MMO or some of the other additives like Seafoam, etc., except that most folks seem to like whatever particular stuff they have - be it MMO, Lucas, etc. When I say if figured MMO can't hurt, I did a lot of reading on the stuff (and the others) and some of this stuff is so well liked you'd think it could cure cancer - LOL. However, hardly anyone I chatted with about the stuff could tell me why it was good for the engine and why it worked! My thought was MMO for some top end lube and Seafoam from time to time to clean out the fuel system. I couldn't tell you if it works or not - I just don't have enough years/experience running it.

1650 update: need to thoroughly clean the carb and will likely put a new kit in it. I've never used the stuff, but bought a gallon can of Berryman parts cleaner/carb dip. Some of these parts I've pulled off my old Kohler engines are really coated with grease/oil/crud.

Quick question - my 122 has bolt on carrier for the mower deck and another carrier for the front blade. Is there any reason to remove the quick attach on the front of my 126 to use these implements/parts? The 126 frame looks like it's pre-drilled and tapped for bolt on carriers.
 
David,

Nice lineup!
There must have not been any cub lovers in the group of bikers, otherwise there would have been a wreck looking at all those cubs!
Y'all better get back on topic before Charlie wakes up.
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Question, (or two)

I spent all day yesterday changing out the engine on my 128 because the governor is shot, and there are a few small issues as well.
The "backup" engine is a K301A (spec# 47504). This engine has a "resistor" in-line going to the ignition coil.What is the purpose of this resistor?
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Please excuse my ignorance.
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I thought I read on this forum somewhere, maybe, that there were different kinds of ignition coils. Could this be the reason for the resistor?
Anyway, I figured if it ran fine with it, and it was on there, I would keep it that way. I didn't want to fry the ignition coil or anything else.
The 128 sure runs a lot smoother with a working governor!
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My Cub 149 hydro will not go into gear, shifter handle has no resistance at all, the linkage in the tunnel seems to all be working . . .

everything works, mower, etc, just will not go forward or reverse. And the shaft from engine to hydro is turning also.

What should I check out first?

Thanks!

Jim
 
James R - first thing I'd check is the buttons on top of your relief valves. Your tunnel cover should have a lever on the right side that rotates the lever that pushes them down. If both are stuck down the tractor should free roll, but your speed control lever won't do anything. If the buttons are in the up position then I'd be looking to see if you have a broken roll pin some place along drive shaft probably the one connecting it to the output shaft on the pump. I believe, but not for certain, that if you see your drive shaft rotating then you should also see the output shaft on the "rear" of the pump is also rotating. If the rear output shaft is not rotating then the roll pin on the front of the pump is likely broken.

Bill J - better post some pics of the 122 bolt on carriers you're talking about. It's not clear to me from what you said, what type of sub-frames you have for the 126 and 122, for both the mowing deck or the snow blade. Once we see them we can advise whether you need to unbolt or use the QA latch.
 

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