Archive through June 21, 2013

[jbaker]

James, if your drive shaft is turning at the hydro end, then I would guess of a few things
1. is your manual hydro relief buttons pushed down
2.do you have enough of the correct fluid in the trans
3. hydro pump is toast

I would start at point number 1

 

[dtanner]

Marty A. Gwin

I would bet that someone has put a car coil on that Cub that does not have a resistor. A Cub coil will have the resistor built into the coil and an external one would not be needed. the electric system on a Cub needs a resistor so leave it on and run the tractor.


James Reilly
If your drive shaft is turning I would look at the tail shaft that comes out the back of the hydro pump to see if it is turning. you could have a broken drive pin at the back of the drive shaft . did you check your hytran level to see if the tractor has the correct amount of fluid to run. Check those two items and report back. We can get you running again!

I`am to slow for Mr. Baker

 

[mgwin]

Donald,

That rings a bell. Thanks!
Now if I can find that chart that gives the info on finding the year of manufacture, my curiosity will be cured. I'm gonna look in the FAQ's

 

[jchamberlin]

Marty: As Don inferred, some automotive manufacturers employ what is known as a "ballast resistor" in series with the positive terminal of the coil in order to knock the voltage at the coil down to 6 volts or so --which is all the coil needs under running conditions. The auto manufacturers (like Chevrolet) actually employ two circuits: the one for starting by-passes the resistor to give the coil 12 volts, when the key drops back to the run condition, the resistor is added back to the circuit. The coil manufacturers don't recommend continued running at 12 volts, as the coil will heat up, lose oil, and/or the insulation is damaged and the coil is ruined. Again, as Don noted, the type of coil specified for Kohlers in Cubs have the resistor built into the coil to prevent that eventuality. If you have access to a standard Cub coil, or look up the specs for it, you ahould be able to get a typical Ohm reading for it to compare to the coil you have. If the coil requires a resistor you should definitely use it; if the resistor is built it, you should not add one.

 

[rwalker]

Carb questions on my 1450, First some background

What started out as replacing the head gasket including making sure the head was flat ended up being much more. When retorquing the head after running and then cool down I found a broken engine mounting bolt and had to remove the engine from the tractor.
After replacing the engine I adjusted the timing using both static method and finishing up with a timing light.

I also have been adjusting the carburetor after warmed it up. Adjusting the carb I started with the initial settings and then ended up turning in both adjusting screws. The idle mixture screw only went in about 1/2 turn. The main fuel mixture screw I turned it in a little over 1 revolution. The reason I turned it in so much was at the initial setting the engine sound like it was skipping (if it had more cylinders).

At these settings the skipping sound now happens about once every minute instead of a bunch of times per minute. It seams to be running much smoother. Even taking it from idle up to a high rpm it does not stumble.

My questions are what is the skipping sound being caused by? Should I turn in the main fuel mixture more too completely remove the skipping sound?

Thanks
Rich

 

[mgwin]

Found it. Thanks, Roland B.!

Now I have another question.
At the top of the engine info page there are the engine model numbers. I clicked on the K301 and another chart came up listing a number column, a spec # column, and a application column. Some of the spec #'s list "tractor" in the app. column. At the bottom it says: "Non designated applications are assumed replacement motors."
Here's my question: Are the ones listed "tractor" the engines that were actually put on a tractor?

 

[mgwin]

Jeremiah,

That would be good to also post in the sandbox under the 169 thread. Some have been talking about their coils dying/overheating. They may have gotten hold of a non-resistive coil by mistake.
Are the non-resistive coils much cheaper? If not, why would someone buy one and then buy a resistor to go with it? That don't make sense/cents.

 

[jbkrupar]

I would say "look what follwed me home" but I had to drive to Colorado last Sunday to pick up this 149. The herd has doubled in size and triple in horsepower. This is my first hydro. Picture one is shortly after picking up the tractor (after six miles on a dirt road!). The next picture is from today after putting it to work. The third picture is of a PO fix, looks like I will need to track down a few parts to fix this issue! The last picture is of the herd, I think the 72 is jealous. In the background is my 2006 Mustang GT convertible.

 

[drglinski]

Nice 149! I think you'll like the hydro.

 

[jbaker]

James K your going to like the hydro, do you have rear lite on the 149 and if so what do the numbers say on the lense?