Archive through July 26, 2004
- Thread starter slanda
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kenny, Seems like there is always a better way after I have been there and made a mess. My lapping compound is in an old 12 ounce tube and is likely older than me.Kind of clumpy nowdays.
Figure while I am in one I can spring for a set of rings. Have had pretty good luck with re-ringing on these motors. Have a 7-hp that I don't think I will get that lucky with, Blowby is almost as much as the exaust. Still runs but is getting hard to start. Not burning much oil but is throwing a LOT out of dipstick.
Figure while I am in one I can spring for a set of rings. Have had pretty good luck with re-ringing on these motors. Have a 7-hp that I don't think I will get that lucky with, Blowby is almost as much as the exaust. Still runs but is getting hard to start. Not burning much oil but is throwing a LOT out of dipstick.
jrichardson
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- jason richardson
Jerry B. Sounds like my 123... I was really hoping that the rings were stuck and that is why I was having so much blow by. Obviously in the case with the 123 the blowby wasn't cured by the MMO allowing the rings to loosen. It was worth a shot. Whats a few dollars for MMO if it works. BTW, have fun at Brooks. I emailed Doug, and he might kidnap one or two of my Cubs and head south on Friday. He said he will take some pics for me. Sure is a fun guy to hang out with.
David,
In answer to your question, you need to reduce it. You can go to your local store that supplies automotive paint and ask for a reducer. They typically make reducer based on air temp outside. It just depends on the climate. They will get you what you need, and if they are really helpfull, they will just give you enough for your project. Take the can and they can help. I'm sure there must be a place near by that does that. OR you can go to ANY body shop and ask the same thing, and they will get you what you need. But to answer your question, you need a reducer. How much should be on the can, but I have always just winged it. It really isn't a science. You need to get it thin enough to come out of the gun and spray good and seperate. But not to thin or it will evaporate to quickly. Again, the places I mentioned will help you.
In answer to your question, you need to reduce it. You can go to your local store that supplies automotive paint and ask for a reducer. They typically make reducer based on air temp outside. It just depends on the climate. They will get you what you need, and if they are really helpfull, they will just give you enough for your project. Take the can and they can help. I'm sure there must be a place near by that does that. OR you can go to ANY body shop and ask the same thing, and they will get you what you need. But to answer your question, you need a reducer. How much should be on the can, but I have always just winged it. It really isn't a science. You need to get it thin enough to come out of the gun and spray good and seperate. But not to thin or it will evaporate to quickly. Again, the places I mentioned will help you.
Kraig if you're reading this. The damping spring part on my 107 is worn even worse than the photo you posted. Left much longer, and it may have broken through completely.
As a stop-gap repair, I inserted the thickest piece of sheet metal that would fit between the spring and the side of the apperture. This seemed to hold up for the mowing I did Saturday.
Many thanks, as had this failed completely I would have been sunk!
-- Ken
As a stop-gap repair, I inserted the thickest piece of sheet metal that would fit between the spring and the side of the apperture. This seemed to hold up for the mowing I did Saturday.
Many thanks, as had this failed completely I would have been sunk!
-- Ken
Kenneth, thanks for letting us know what you found, glad I put you on the right track. It was a slightly educated, but mostly a lucky guess on my part. 
)
)
J
jchabot
Guest
David Dillon:
The Cub Cadet paint does need to be reduced but not much. Use acrylic enamel reducer and start with about 8 parts paint to 1 part reducer. If it is too thick add reducer until you get the right consistency. Keep track of your mixture so that you can repeat it later on without the trial and error. You may want to add hardener to the paint to improve the gloss and durability. Both the reducer and hardener can be bought at an auto supply store that sells paint or at a tractor supply. If you add hardener to the paint you must spray out or throw away any paint with the hardener in it as the hardener causes the paint to dry chemically instead of by evaporation and it will dry even in a sealed can!
The Cub Cadet paint does need to be reduced but not much. Use acrylic enamel reducer and start with about 8 parts paint to 1 part reducer. If it is too thick add reducer until you get the right consistency. Keep track of your mixture so that you can repeat it later on without the trial and error. You may want to add hardener to the paint to improve the gloss and durability. Both the reducer and hardener can be bought at an auto supply store that sells paint or at a tractor supply. If you add hardener to the paint you must spray out or throw away any paint with the hardener in it as the hardener causes the paint to dry chemically instead of by evaporation and it will dry even in a sealed can!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I'll second Jim's comments on thinning CIH/MTD paints, 8:1->6:1 seems best. The CIH federal yellow tends to cover and spray better when left thicker.
Reducers are purchased on their temperature range, pick the one that best suits the ambient temp you will be painting at.....in general "medium" should be as close to an "all-around" reducer as you can get, but there can be big differences in performance with a few degrees of temp. and/or humidity, so you have to "feel your way" for the first few cups.
The biggest mistake you can make with acrylic enamels is to go to the store and buy plain old paint thinner......use only the acrylic enamel reducers for best results.
Reducers are purchased on their temperature range, pick the one that best suits the ambient temp you will be painting at.....in general "medium" should be as close to an "all-around" reducer as you can get, but there can be big differences in performance with a few degrees of temp. and/or humidity, so you have to "feel your way" for the first few cups.
The biggest mistake you can make with acrylic enamels is to go to the store and buy plain old paint thinner......use only the acrylic enamel reducers for best results.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
<font size="+2">FALL PLOW DAY - LATE BREAKING NEWS</font>
The 2004 Fall Plow Day will be held at the Blunier Farm in Roanoke, IL on one of the following dates....
<font size="+2">Saturday Oct. 23rd.</font>
Rain date:
Saturday Oct. 30th
Set up will be similar to PD's #1 and #4, with 40 acres to plow (we may have to slow some poeple down so we have enough ground!!!) Because the likelyhood of turning under 40 acres is a very real possibility, we will probably limit any Friday "Pre-plowing" to opening up lands etc. by event planners ONLY.
A display area and a vendor area will be provided. Please email me if you plan to bring a large number of for sale items so that we can situate everything accordingly.
Rules and registration will be the same as WFM and Travis's place. Hopefully, we will be using the same registration system as we have used in the past, provided that those who have worked to maintain it are willing to provide that service again (TIA guys, I'll be emailing you soon).
As always, the event is open to all makes and models of GT's pulling plows, disks, harrows, cultivators, etc.
These events are a <font size="+2">BLAST</font>, you won't regret taking the time to attend!!!!!
(Message edited by sblunier on July 27, 2004)
The 2004 Fall Plow Day will be held at the Blunier Farm in Roanoke, IL on one of the following dates....
<font size="+2">Saturday Oct. 23rd.</font>
Rain date:
Saturday Oct. 30th
Set up will be similar to PD's #1 and #4, with 40 acres to plow (we may have to slow some poeple down so we have enough ground!!!) Because the likelyhood of turning under 40 acres is a very real possibility, we will probably limit any Friday "Pre-plowing" to opening up lands etc. by event planners ONLY.
A display area and a vendor area will be provided. Please email me if you plan to bring a large number of for sale items so that we can situate everything accordingly.
Rules and registration will be the same as WFM and Travis's place. Hopefully, we will be using the same registration system as we have used in the past, provided that those who have worked to maintain it are willing to provide that service again (TIA guys, I'll be emailing you soon).
As always, the event is open to all makes and models of GT's pulling plows, disks, harrows, cultivators, etc.
These events are a <font size="+2">BLAST</font>, you won't regret taking the time to attend!!!!!
(Message edited by sblunier on July 27, 2004)
D
dvogt
Guest
Judging by the lack of posts since Steve made his announcment, I'd say everyone ran to the garage to start tuning
till
Well-known member
Let's see.....
With a start time of 8:00 am that would give us about....
1917 hours and 37 minuits till Plow Day.
I hope I have enough time to get ready.
(Message edited by till on July 28, 2004)
With a start time of 8:00 am that would give us about....
1917 hours and 37 minuits till Plow Day.
I hope I have enough time to get ready.
(Message edited by till on July 28, 2004)
I would like to thank those folks who helped me out with my little electrical problem. It was a bad field coil and a severed wire inside the starter/generator. Thanks again all.
Tom: Do you have any more information about the McHenry County Plow day. I've never taken part in one but i sure would like to or at least come out and watch.
Tom: Do you have any more information about the McHenry County Plow day. I've never taken part in one but i sure would like to or at least come out and watch.
Next week is fair week in my local area. I plan to have both my restored 124 and the 125 I picked up this year on display.
It looks like they will be the only Cubs on site for the County Fair.
I am tryin to start some Cub movement here in the west. (fom the looks of the forum member map it's kinda one sidded) I think I may be fighting a loosin battle here.
But you know what they say, it's better to have loved and lost than to never have loved at all...
BTW any ideas on how to put on a good display for my cubs? Posters, decorations, ect.....
(Message edited by dharmon on July 28, 2004)
BTW any ideas on how to put on a good display for my cubs? Posters, decorations, ect.....
(Message edited by dharmon on July 28, 2004)
Donnie, here are some photos of what others have done.
Above are some photos of Paul Bell's display.
This is Jim Chabot (and family) and part of his display.
Above are some photos of Paul Bell's display.
This is Jim Chabot (and family) and part of his display.
