Archive through July 24, 2009

[kide]

Tony:
Champion J-8 ....

Yes, axle seals are available
Use Hytran or (gear drives only - 30 wt)

Note.... The FAQs are your best friend

 

[wtatge]

I went out to look at my 129 Hydrostatic today because it hasnt run in about two years and I finally have the time to take a good look at her. I was told by the Cub Cadet place in town which had looked at it for my mother that the compression release spring is broken. How hard is that to replace? Also I did a compression test and it jumped strait to 40lbs of pressure. Is that good or low? Thanks guys I really appreciate the help.

 

[kide]

William:
Kohlers use an automatic compression release (ACR) assembly that is internal to the engine. In the FAQs is a link to the Kohler download for the repair manual. I'd check that out first. How hard is it? -Well, it does involve taking the engine apart, but note that we've got guys not in their 20's yet rebuilding them..........

(come to think of it, I was rebuilding car engines when I was 15....... (no stone age jokes, thanks..)

 

[mfrade]

"Gentlemen,
I have a few questions.
Could someone please tell me the correct (best) sparkplug for my newly acquired 1963 Cub Cadet Original? It has a sooty black ( I assume it is burning oil) Champion RJ8C .
Also, the rear axle is leaking oil / grease at the ends and it is getting on the inside of the wheels. I would like to know which lube to use to top off the rear axle level, and can I re seal and stop this leak.
I need to know what size belt is needed for the mower deck.

Thanks,
Tony p working on Matts Original tractor
Unionville, NC"

Tony, boy are those loaded questions around here! I see Kendall has answered your questions below and I agree with his answers! Others I'm sure will add there opinions and I'm sure the choices will vary! LOL..

 

[mfrade]

Brendan, are you still working on a "alternative" to the original muffler or stack exhaust? I may have found a pipe with a built in resonator that'll fit my 73. It's from a Honda auto and it looks like the right shape. I'm waiting for one to get here from the warehouse and we'll see what develops.

 

[tpowers]

Thanks Kide,
Could you possibly e-mail that Original Spec page as a pdf?
I tried to capture it with no luck.
thanks,
Tonyp
Tonyp884ATcarolinaDOTrrDotcom

 

[shollis]

Hooray!! finally some progress on my 127. Today after several 30-40 minute sessions over a number of weeks using PB Blaster liberally, heat and various size hammers and prybars the speed control lever is off and I can continue with disassembly. I discovered a GREAT product which is why I finally got the lever off. Check out "CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant" it is the only thing that worked on this particular part. I have the tower off and can now move on to finding the problem with the rest of the Hydro linkage. Nothing moves, so more disassembly ahead.

 

[wshytle]

I have a 128 that has the brake shoe and pto clutch. Can I switch this back to the button style? I believe I have to change the throwout lever. If not please let me know. The lever on it now is wider than the button throwout lever on my other 128. I think I may need to order a different kit as well but I'm not sure. Please inform me oh mighty pto guy.

 

[digger]

Lets go just a tad smaller on that pic.
Here's the belt specs for an O...

 

[rchristensen]

Wayne S. I'm not a mighty PTO guy but I do have a question. Why would you want to change the brake style PTO on your 128 to the older version with out the brake?????

 

[tpowers]

Can I ask a few more questions?
I go it rewired and When I push the starter button, the Voltage regulator buzzes. I can pull start it with a rope and it starts right up.
If I turn the fuel petcock on too far it leaks. Also the carb will have fuel coming out of it where the air cleaner is. Is I open the fuel petcock a little, like about one half turn and start it up with the rope, no fuel leak and it seems to run fine. Of course, I have nothing to compare it to.
So I'm thinking I either need a new fuel petcock or can I rebuild this one?
And I need a carb kit?
And the fact that the voltage regulator buzzes mean I need a new regulator?
And of course the rear axle leaks a little.
All in all, not too bad for $300.

I appreciate your help and any suggestions!

thanks,
Tony P

 

[sstanton]

Matt, that 100 looks awesome! I only hope my 104 looks half that good when I get it done!(if I ever get it done!) I definatly need to ask the accountant/wife when I can buy the rest of the stuff to get it finished! If I had it my way we wouldnt ever get the bill's paid BUT the 104 would be done, and the 106, and now the 1650!

 

[tpowers]

I forgot to mention my Original also appears to need a clutch return spring. I'l look under it Saturday when I get the deck off. My son has been riding it now for about an hour and does not want to park it. Man, I did not know he could smile THAT big!
Tony P
Unionville, NC
Original

 

[bnolte]

William T.
The automatic compression release spring is on the flywheel side of the camshaft as shown below. You might be able to get away with just removing the cam cover and carefully removing the old spring and installing the new one. There are two issues with this though. One issue is that there is already a piece of a broken spring sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. If it gets agitated up, it could cause some serious damage if you don't fish it out. The other issue is that it would be very easy to drop the new spring down into the engine.

After confirming that the spring is actually broken, I would err on the side of caution and pull the engine and remove the oil pan. You'll have easier access to everything and you'll be able to remove the old spring fragments before they can do any further damage. Removing the oil pan isn't a big deal once the engine is out.

 

[bbrigham]

Mike F.....I pretty much have it figured out. I'm just looking for an atv or dirtbike muffler that has close to 1 1/4" inlet, the positioning will be almost perfect to go under the foot step and over the rear axle. I have a start on it, just need to cut the turnout off to add more pipe once I get the muffler.

I don't like the white but it was the only high temp paint I have left.....need to do some shopin

Tony...First check your connections, especially the grounds. Check the battery or have it load tested. One of those is probably the culprit not the solenoid.
Don't mess around with the carb, just clean it thoroughly and rebuild it.
I don't remember if the petcocks can be fixed with new o rings or not...I think yes
With the rear axle, make sure there is not too much slop, if there is get new bushings before you put the seals in.

 

[fsnerd]

my 128 with the stalling problem.

i think the tractor is possessed. or maybe im nuts, or just stupid.

i checked the timing with a timing light. a little off. before i adjusted it ,i took out the points, inspected them, no problems, put back in, checked with timing light.timing light seemed to be skipping, not a steady strobe. timing was a little off. adjusted points, ran rough, adjusted again, now it wont start.
turned flywheel to the timing mark, adjusted points so they are just starting to open, wont start.
pulled fuel line at carb, free flow.

is it possible we are all looking at the wrong things?

if a wire, maybe the wire to the points, was frayed somewhere. moving it when replacing points or when it got hot, would cause it to break the circuit, or short.

any electrical experts think i would be better off replacing wires then chasing the timing?

so, the question now is, what would cause a tractor to not start if the timing was at least close, and the timing light to skip?

or am i just stupid and missing something ?

wait, i am stupid. i should check for spark at the plug, shouldnt i? be right back with the answer.

 

[wshytle]

Hi Richard, The main reason is cost. Have you bought the brake disc and clutch lately? I'm familiar with the old style and I thought it might make things a little easier in the long run. It's the style I grew up with too. My father bought a 128 in '72 which is my next project and it has the wear button style. I'm wondering now if the button style kits will fit the body of the pto I'm trying to convert. Also, this is the only cub I have with this type pto. The rest are either the wear button or electric. Anyway, thanks for asking.

 

[fsnerd]

no spark at plug or coil wire.

 

[kide]

I didn't notice it was too wide until it was too late for me to edit. (It was only about 20 pixels too wide......)

Hey - what time zone is that server in now? I just posted at 10:01 PM and the time stamp on the post is 3 hours behind.....

 

[rmclements]

Hello...This is my first post so help me if I mess up too much. Please don't kick me off because of what I did to this little cubby about 30 years ago. It belongs to my father-in-law and now I am going to make it right.