Archive through July 24, 2009

[rmclements]

I can't seem to find the serial number on this Original. My father-in-law claims that it came from the old owner of the D & M Railroad in Tawas City, Michigan. The owner of the railroad also owned the IH dealership in the town then. It supposedly came off the "ranch" in 1961 after it was used for a couple of years. This time frame doesn't match up with IH records though. The attached picture is where I think I should be looking. Is that right? Thanks for you help.

 

[mmiller]

Robert C.
Look for the serial number in the area just to the right of your picture. It is stamped into the reduction housing in front and above that drain plug.

 

[dross]

Frank, 2 or 3 weeks ago I spent 4 hours tracking a ghost on a friends 100. turned out to be the L wire on the regulator, it only had 2 or 3 strands attached. ran till it died out like fuel only it had fuel through the carb. pulled the switch and a wire came off the connector taking it apart, thought that was it, put it back together and nothing changed. While I was messing with it, ignition on, I reached up and was checking wires at the regulator when it all of a sudden back fired through the carb scared the crap out of me. replaced that connection, last report, and shes run ever since.

 

[rmclements]

Here are a few more "before" pics of my project.

 

[rmclements]

Micheal M.

Thanks!! #4298, March 1961.

 

[wtatge]

Thanks Bruce. I pulled the tractor apart tonite and opened up the oil pan and the spring isnt broke. I am a little confused. Heres a little background on what is happening. I just replaced the headgasket on the tractor and my mom was mowing with it for about an hour and the tractor died on her. It wouldnt start back up just crank and crank. She had the Cub Cadet dealership look at it and they told her it was the compression release spring. However, when I opened it up the spring doesnt look broke to me. I can spin the motor over by hand and see the plates and such on the cam move by the spring. Any ideas would be appreciated. I really want to get this one running again she has been very faithful for a 72'.

 

[dross]

William did you retorque the head gasket after you replaced it? Does it have spark? Gas? is the plug wet? Does the battery have a good 12 volt charge?

 

[rbedell]

Tony P:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

I go it rewired and When I push the starter button, the Voltage regulator buzzes.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

You either have the V/R wired wrong, or the V/R is bad.

 

[jjordan]

Off the top their head, does anyone know the nut size for the studs on the back of the ammeter. I lost them and need to go to McMaster to buy a few. Thanks!

 

[mfrade]

Brenden, I like what you've done so far, "except", in the picture it looks like your real close to the steering linkage. Does the pipe hit when the axle pivots up? Other than that I even like the color! LOL. I had the new pipe in my hand but it's 2" o.d. and just to large. There's no way it'll work with the mower deck in place. When I picked it up I was psyched that this was a winner! But, no way will it fit like I want. I really need to stay with the 1 1/4" pipe and find "new friend" at the muffler shop, ROFL!!

 

[jharvey]

Wayne
I converted my 129 brake style PTO to the non brake style and it seems to be working fine. I changed the PTO rockshaft assy and used the kit with the bent tri spring. 759-3490 New trust button and bronze wear button. Depending on the PTO pulley you use, you may not be able to use the adjusting guage that comes with the kit. The pulleys are unique to the brake style PTO and of course that guage is made to fit the old pulleys.
Hope that came out right. You will be a PTO expert after you pull this off. Good Luck! JH

 

[bbrigham]

Tony...I could have swore your post said solenoid

guess I need to back off some of my meds or put my glasses on......maybe both.

Mike... The picture is deceiving, I couldn't get a level shot as I was already leaning over my 1450. We took it through the range of motion yesterday <font size="-2">althoughafteritwaspainted</font> and there is plenty of room.

 

[jbliler]

All---- those brake style pto brake pads can be re-lined. A brake shoe overhaul shop will have 1/4 inch flat pad. A three inch circle of materal with a 1 inch hole in the middle is much more fabric than factory. Grind off the remainder of the old pad and use JB weld to stick the pad in place. Clamp it TIGHT to dry, A lump in the glue will not let the pad sit level to the clutch. There is plenty of ajustment to use the thick pad. Should last 40-50 years! Your old one made 30+.Good luck!

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Jerry. I knew someone had done this at some point and that it was possible. I'm sure osha probably had something to do with this back in the mid seventies. I don't care how long my blades spin and I know to keep fingers and toes away. The cost difference is considerable and I know the wear button style. It's on all of my other cubs that are mechanical. Thanks again!

 

[wshytle]

Jerry B. - Thanks for the info. The $52 clutch brake was missing and the pad had been worn off a while and the pto neglected. I would have had to go back with over a hundred bucks worth to get it right. This cub belongs to my nephew now and he just wants a mowing machine. He's using a 124 of mine until I can complete this change over. All I don't have is the rockshaft lever. I'll keep that in mind about the JB weld. Thanks!

 

[jhillegass]

Jeff J.

On the nut for the ampmeter, It's probably a 10-32. (maybe a 10-24, but it looks like the finer thread to me) It's not an 8-24, I tried one and its to small.

I'd think you can get something at lowes or home depot or Tractor Supply.

 

[bnolte]

William,
You can verify quickly if the engine has compression by doing a "thumbpression" test by holding your thumb over the spark plug hole while you operate the starter. It's possible, along with a blown head gasket that a valve could be sticking.

If you verify the engine has at least some compression, then it's time to troubleshoot the ignition and fuel system. If you've got spark, a quick check for the fuel system is to spray some of the spray type carb cleaner down the throat of the carb while cranking. A search of the FAQs will give a more complete picture once you isolate the problem to one system or the other.

 

[mgonitzke]

Well, we made it back from RPRU, albeit barely. The truck decided to die once on the way home, but we got it to start again after coasting to a stop. It was a great time. Perhaps I'll post pictures later. I still have to unload yet.

 

[jbliler]

Wayne a brake rebuilder will about give away scraps of flat stock. Most of the time a donation to a donut fund goes a long way!

 

[rpalmer]

Are OEM head lights aim able?

I'm thinking of maybe getting some.