Archive through July 17, 2014
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Guys, I'm sure this has been covered before, however, if anyone can help me, I would appreciate it. I have a 1976 1200. I bought it used and replaced the iso-mounts about 10 years ago. I recently noticed that the engine is leaning toward the passenger side. I discovered that the two bolts that secure the engine to the steel rail are missing. When I pull the engine to replace the bolts, I want to replace the iso-mounts. Cub Cadet wants $80 for a set of four. Does anybody know where I can get these cheaper? I tried NAPA but they couldn't cross-reference either the old or new numbers. Where do I find the description of Charlies modification to the iso-mounts system? Also, I have a 1975 1450. I took it to the shop because it would run. The shop told me that the carburator needs to be replaced (they said a rebuild kit won't work). The mechanic blamed the problem on ethanol. The tractor was used throughout the winter, so it did not sit for an extended period of time. They want $350 for a new carburator. Do whole carburators go bad? If anyone has any answers, I would appreciate the help.
Christian,
I don't claim to be an expert, but I'll throw my two cents worth in here, for whatever it is worth.
If this was my tractor (and I'd love to have a 1200) I would spend the $80 and get the genuine Cub Cadet motor mounts. They are designed differently than those of previous years, and seem to be adjustable to the needs of your engine. Installation is the key. If I recall correctly, the instructions that are with the mount kit call for tightening to 100 inch-pounds of torque. That is rather tight. Others have recommended using new mount bolts of the correct size and length, nylock nuts and washers as necessary. Start by tightening the bolts to one or two threads showing above the nut and adjust from there. It may take awhile set the mounts to absorb the engine vibration; and can be a slow and trial and error process. That plan worked well for my 1250 Nightmare.
The engine cradle modification is well explained in Charlie's FAQ section, number 23. Look there for the correct information. Click the FAQ link above and look. It's great information.
There are motor experts here who can answer your carburetor question.
The 1200 is a nice tractor and well worth preserving. Good luck with your repairs.
I don't claim to be an expert, but I'll throw my two cents worth in here, for whatever it is worth.
If this was my tractor (and I'd love to have a 1200) I would spend the $80 and get the genuine Cub Cadet motor mounts. They are designed differently than those of previous years, and seem to be adjustable to the needs of your engine. Installation is the key. If I recall correctly, the instructions that are with the mount kit call for tightening to 100 inch-pounds of torque. That is rather tight. Others have recommended using new mount bolts of the correct size and length, nylock nuts and washers as necessary. Start by tightening the bolts to one or two threads showing above the nut and adjust from there. It may take awhile set the mounts to absorb the engine vibration; and can be a slow and trial and error process. That plan worked well for my 1250 Nightmare.
The engine cradle modification is well explained in Charlie's FAQ section, number 23. Look there for the correct information. Click the FAQ link above and look. It's great information.
There are motor experts here who can answer your carburetor question.
The 1200 is a nice tractor and well worth preserving. Good luck with your repairs.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Christian - the info Brian provided is terrific. If you can't find the FAQ just scroll to the top of this page and you'll see FAQ in purple lettering. Click on the "FAQ" and it will take you to the Forum FAQ's. Once there you'll see a note at the top of the page in black letters telling you to Check out Charlie's FAQ at cubfaq.com. The "cubfaq.com" is in red letters. Just click on it and it will take you to Charlie's FAQs. Scroll down to No. 23 for ISO-mount and cradle details. (here is it http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html )
As for your carburetor, in my view unless the body is cracked or broken it can almost always be rebuilt, and since yours has been operational in the last 6 months I feel like it certainly could be. It probably does need to be dis-assembled and soaked in a good cleaner, needle and seat replaced, and make sure all the fine passages are open - but it all can be done by a person knowledgeable with these Kohler K series carbs. If you don't do it I'd look for a local small engine mechanic. Or maybe there is someone on here that would overhaul your carb. I guess you could post to the "Wanted" section of the Classifieds and see if someone responds. Also, here's a link to Charlie's FAQ no.6 on carb kits.
http://cubfaq.com/carbkits.html
As for your carburetor, in my view unless the body is cracked or broken it can almost always be rebuilt, and since yours has been operational in the last 6 months I feel like it certainly could be. It probably does need to be dis-assembled and soaked in a good cleaner, needle and seat replaced, and make sure all the fine passages are open - but it all can be done by a person knowledgeable with these Kohler K series carbs. If you don't do it I'd look for a local small engine mechanic. Or maybe there is someone on here that would overhaul your carb. I guess you could post to the "Wanted" section of the Classifieds and see if someone responds. Also, here's a link to Charlie's FAQ no.6 on carb kits.
http://cubfaq.com/carbkits.html
Looking for some help on my 100 carburetor setup. I have replaced the choke and throttle cables, and the old ones had already been removed so I have nothing to reference. I think the choke may be the wrong setup for the application. I cant get the cable to function correctly. When I pull the choke it actually opens the choke up and closes when it is pushed in. Ive seen a couple different linkage setups on these carbs. Some reference pictures of how this is supposed to be mounted and a picture of the correct choke setup would be great if anyone has some out there! It is one of the earlier 100's. Its a 64,000-ish serial number. Thanks ahead of time for any help!!!
Brian, Thanks for the info. After you responded, I realized Charlie had his own FAQ page. The info was just what I was looking for, thanks. Regarding the 1200, I was very lucky. The previous owner advertised it in the local paper. Besides the iso mounts, the clutch needed to be replaced. The tractor came with a clean 44" deck, snow plow, one set of old cast iron wheel weights, a moldboard plow, a disk and tire chains for $550. I prefer using the 1200 to haul firewood over the 1450. You can't beat the direct drive. I really like both tractors.
nbextermueller
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Christian, DO NOT pay those thieves $350 for a new carb. That's rediculous! Like Harry said, if yours was operational, it can certainly be rebuilt.
If I needs to be replaced, post in the wanted section of the classifieds.
I would say find a new mechanic. An old guy, not a shop. Somebody who can actually work on/fix things instead of just replace with new factory only parts.
Sorry to rant... It's hard to find someone who will take the time to actually diagnose and fix something. Shops are in the business of selling parts, not paying a guy $20/hr to put on a $7 carb kit. I could go on and on... It really ruffles my feathers. 95% of the time when a mechanic these days say "sure I can fix it", it really means, "I'll be happy to throw parts at your vehicle until I've replaced enough parts to make it work again and charge you for 6 of the 7 parts you didn't need and all the time it takes to replace all those parts you didn't need."
It's really ashame... Mechanic my a$$, Freaking parts replacers...
If I needs to be replaced, post in the wanted section of the classifieds.
I would say find a new mechanic. An old guy, not a shop. Somebody who can actually work on/fix things instead of just replace with new factory only parts.
Sorry to rant... It's hard to find someone who will take the time to actually diagnose and fix something. Shops are in the business of selling parts, not paying a guy $20/hr to put on a $7 carb kit. I could go on and on... It really ruffles my feathers. 95% of the time when a mechanic these days say "sure I can fix it", it really means, "I'll be happy to throw parts at your vehicle until I've replaced enough parts to make it work again and charge you for 6 of the 7 parts you didn't need and all the time it takes to replace all those parts you didn't need."
It's really ashame... Mechanic my a$$, Freaking parts replacers...
dgallagher
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What is the best way to get the pulley off a S/G for my 129 without destroying it? Thanks
hydroharry
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Nic - alot of us on here "hear ya" and agree. I'll bet the shop Christian went to didn't even remove the float bowl - and could well be the way the shop is run - meaning they probably don't do minor repairs just major replacements. I hope Christian saw my message as well as yours but his post seemed to just mention Brian's info. Oh, and those needle and seat kits are about $12 now. I don't think they have been $7 for quite a few years. If I'm wrong and you know where to get them for $7, well let me know. I like to have a few spares around.
Jason - it sure sounds like someone replaced the carb and it's for a later application since your choke cable is working in reverse. I hope "Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos" see your message and can post some pics of a 100 carb and cable linkage set up. I'd probably be on the look out for a correct carb. You could probably switch the choke mounting rod assembly from a correct carb - but it would be whole lot easier and simplier to just swap the entire carb for the correct one. This is all assuming you do have the wrong carb. I can't think of a way you could have run your cable so it works in reverse unless you ran it from the top down instead of the bottom up.
David G - hope someone that does it regularly sees your post. That pulley is pretty light weight, might be aluminum and bends pretty easily. I never did have a good method. Best I can say is brighten up the shaft (remove any and all rust) before you go pulling on it. And make sure you use some rust solvent or lubricant so it can slide. I suppose you really need some type of backing plates or jig to put behind the pulley before you go using a puller.
Jason - it sure sounds like someone replaced the carb and it's for a later application since your choke cable is working in reverse. I hope "Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos" see your message and can post some pics of a 100 carb and cable linkage set up. I'd probably be on the look out for a correct carb. You could probably switch the choke mounting rod assembly from a correct carb - but it would be whole lot easier and simplier to just swap the entire carb for the correct one. This is all assuming you do have the wrong carb. I can't think of a way you could have run your cable so it works in reverse unless you ran it from the top down instead of the bottom up.
David G - hope someone that does it regularly sees your post. That pulley is pretty light weight, might be aluminum and bends pretty easily. I never did have a good method. Best I can say is brighten up the shaft (remove any and all rust) before you go pulling on it. And make sure you use some rust solvent or lubricant so it can slide. I suppose you really need some type of backing plates or jig to put behind the pulley before you go using a puller.
CHRISTIAN - Another thing about a "New Carb" for your CC... it'll be a brand new Walbro, which has a fixed main metering fuel jet, not adjustable. They have a well deserved reputation of not making your Kohler run as good as the old Carter N series carb's your Kohler was built with did.
I'm actually surprised a new carb is only $350. I priced a new carb 20 yrs ago, would have been a Walbro for a K241... was $300 way back then.
I'm actually surprised a new carb is only $350. I priced a new carb 20 yrs ago, would have been a Walbro for a K241... was $300 way back then.
