Archive through July 17, 2010

[kide]

TG:
A little comment.. (only after I see Matt apologizing...)

"The choke shaft had to be removed to repair the bracket on the live end. It twisted loose from the shaft. I milled off the braded end, drilled and tapped end of shaft then reattached bracket with machine screw, lock washer, and a little lock-tite." You seem to have pretty fair machinist's skills. It seems to me you didn't need any information but still had to carp about Matt's efforts ??

Last time I had one like that, I positioned the arm and hit it with the TIG. (MIG would work as well).

And last, I don't see what EITHER Matt or I have to apologize for - you got straight forward suggestions from both of us that applied to what you TOLD us..

 

[fcurrier]

NOW you tell me!
By Wes Heinsohn (Wheinsohn) on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:29 am:

Lyle B., there were only 2 decks available when the 100 was sold. They either had a 38" or 42" cast end deck. The 38" required 6-12 rear tires where the 42" had enough clearance for the 8.50-12. A few years later a 48" deck was available for the 1x2,3 series that would work on it.

 

[dtotzke]

Has anyone ever installed a K301 in a 682?

I want to transplant the K301 from a 1250 into a 682. Can the "Quiet Line" engine frame rails be used in the 682?

The frame of the 682 does have the raised/angled areas like a "Quiet Line" but hole spacing is different.

I checked the archives and could not find anything on this subject. I checked the parts manual for the 682 and does not show these engine rails.

Thanks
Dave

 

[mhomrighausen]

Frank C. I have a set of 6x12 tires for either the 125 or Clarence (102) and two of those cast iron decks. Both Clarence and the 125 have 23x8.5x12 rears on them. I've sold one of the 38" decks and will probably part the other since a PO cut the wheel brackets off... GRRR. I also have most of a 48" pin on deck that I can't seem to find a good home for it. Dang it if you were closer I would give you a great deal on that "extra" 38" and the 48" deck.

p.s. Fancy said that you forgot

Myron B.

 

[mgonitzke]

Dave T.-

I'm putting a K321 in a 682 and I'm about half done. If you search for my name and 682, you'll probably find it. You either need a 1282/1210/1211 engine cradle, or just the risers from it to add to a modified pair of QL rails. You can't use the QL rails as-is. The driveshaft won't line up and the oil pan will hit the axle pivot bolt. The wiring harness has to be moved, and a new driveshaft may need to be made. I haven't gotten that far yet.

 

[gcamille]

Don T.
Thanks on the front PTO. I went out to try what you suggested, so I could let you know results.
Now I find with the PTO not disengaging right I runt the thrust button. Will have to order one of them.
Thanks , Gary

 

[mmiller]

Kraig, congratulate me.....I just bought one of the best cubs ever off of that auction site.

 

[gjohnson]

Michael

I was looking at that 125 earlier today and thought it was a good buy, wish you luck getting it running.

 

[twilie]

Matt,
You sound like a stand up guy. I go to your site quite often to check for updates as you seem to be a pretty dang good at this CC business. There is no need to apologize. My original post was intended as a little light hearted humor about my mistakes that I thought might help others keep from doing what I did. No harm intended.

 

[mmiller]

Thanks Greg! The engine is a big ?, but I figured the accessories alone made it a good deal.

 

[jbaker]

Gary C make sure you get a brass one from a sponser above several have them just email them.
Fiber buttons are not worth the savings..,.

 

[mgwin]

Sorry guys,
No pics of the garden tractor pull. It poured the rain and the pull was called off.

They could have had a nice mud bog though. I've been dying to go to one for over a year, and for one reason or another I haven't made it yet. Maybe someday i'll get to see some old cubs in action.

 

[jelong]

Hello, I posted several days ago about a problem I am having with my 1250 which runs for approx. 1-2 minutes at 3/4 to full throttle and dies.I have change points, plug, condensor, coil checked timing, clean gas tank, changed fuel line, rebuilt carb, set valves, and decarbed head and the problem still persist. It runs fine at lower throttle speeds. Previously I received some really good feedback and ideas from some long term members which was helpful. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thxs.

 

[lbury]

Thanks for all the input guys, with your coaching I figured out that it`s a 42. On another subject, I put a sleeve hitch on another 100 that I have this PM, had a heck of a time getting the cotter pin in the bracket that goes on the lift handle, any helpful advice in case I`m dumb enough to do that again ?

 

[mgonitzke]

Lyle-

I think you have to put the lift block on the lift rod, and then slide it through the frame and bolt it on. It is still a major PITA, but easier than bolting the lift block to the handle and then trying to put the cotter key in afterwords.

 

[jbaker]

Jimmy I had a similar problem with my 1200. It turned out to be the wire from the coil that snakes thru the back of the engine,

it had wore thru and with the right vibration would ground out and stall and some time not restart.

Replace that wire and give it a try

 

[lbury]

Matt, I never thought of that, just goes to show, just because you have worked on stuff your whole life, doesn`t mean you know anything, thanks ......................Lyle

 

[jelong]

Jeff, I did a continuity check on the wire and it checked OK but that does not mean it does not have a short. I disconnect that wire your speaking of at the coil and ran a jumper ...same problem. I'm running out of ideas. Thxs.

 

[twilie]

Gerry,
Let it go. I've been here since back in the mid 90's, the days of "Hydro Harry", "Kentuck", and Don H and been working on CC's for over 35 years. I think I shall not be scoulded by you. I didn't "carp" on Matt's site and I didn't ask for an apology inspite of "what it seems like to you". I don't know who Jef Mallet is but Paul Harvey once said if opions were worth anything pepole wouldn't be so quick to give them away. Happy Cubbin'.

 

[bproctor]

Jim L,

How does it die?

Suddenly, slowly, does it sputter and pop or just die? Have you definitely determined it dies from higher rpm's and not from length of time. Will it run for a long period of time if you leave it at low rpm or does it eventually die at low rpm's also?

Except for the short you've checked what I would check. I thought the answers to these questions might narrow it down for one of these CC wizards on here. I had a non CC tractor do that but it was the magneto/coil. It would per like a kitten until it warmed up. The wires would expand and short out or break contact and it would die. I see you have replaced the coil.