• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through July 09, 2018

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


Well-known member
Feb 24, 2000
Craig Carney

waay back when Art did his he pressed his out like you will have to. Mine just leaked; i didn't have to tear it down.
hope ur aluminum housing holds up
Craig C.
Yea well, ONE the few things that I've not replaced since the fire! LOL
I'll to go buy me a press now!

Get a good one. It took about 27 TONS of pressure to press out the axle pins on my 70/100 axles!!!

Sounded like a gun went off when it finally moved.
it's been a while so here ya go....i live in wny on lake ontario....i don't know how many of you are familiar with what we experienced last year along the south shore of the lake....so i put a pic from a year ago and another from today after i tackled the beach with my 109 and the 42 inch deck i rebuilt a few years ago.....where i mowed is on the left in the pic with all the water.....people told me it couldn't be done due to the height of the grass/weeds there, about 3-4 feet.....but the cub handled it as can be seen in the video....charlie....the stuff you sent me worked better than expected.....this ole girl is still kickin' ass......


I figured I could pull the rear end out, but that it would be a lot of work getting all of the Hydro linkage unhooked, and hooked back up.
Danny M,

Yep, disconnecting the hydro and brake linkages are a pain on narrow frames when removing the rear end. It's good to know that there's an alternative method of replacing the driveshaft. I never would have thought you could do it the way you did due to getting the fan and shaft far enough forward to clear the fan shroud and then clearing the pump, steering column, linkages etc. But removing the filter and front tunnel shield was key to getting it out that way. Always more than one way of doing something. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks Charlie for the part. I'll get the front end back under the 149.

I got curious and pulled the pan off the engine. I wanted to get first hand knowledge of those infamous "balance gears". I've read of guys that have "broken" them to get them out. I contemplated that, but got scared and just going to leave well enough alone. I don't run this up at max RPM, ever. Most times 1/2 throttle is more then enough to do any thing I want with it.

Now to get a pan gasket(duh, wished I had ordered one Charlie). Going to try to get it locally so I can get it put back together this weekend.

I'm gritting at my teeth waiting to mow again with the newly rebuilt 42" deck I put on the 127. It's so quiet, it's INSANE!
Mike C - I watched your video and it's pretty amazing what you were able to do with your 109. Were you running at full throttle? It didn't sound like it in the video but I'm guessing you'd have to be in order to handle that jungle.
Ron S.
I did take the fan shroud loose also. I had to wiggle it around some to get the shaft to go out the back of it.
Larry K.-

Hope you don't mow with your tractors if you never run them above 1/2 throttle...you may not toss the balance gears out the side, but running them hot won't do them any favors either.
Matt - I agree.. The other reason I run at rated RPM if I'm loading the motor at all is the plain bearing big end of the rod relies on rotation to build the cushion of oil between the rod bearing surface and the crank bearing surface.. Thin cushion = more wear.
A neighbor of my parents has never liked mowing or any mower. His push mower engines run too fast and his riders never last more than a couple years. He ONLY runs them at 1/4 throttle. He actually yelled at me the first time I mowed over at my parents. I was running the engine too fast on the 1450 he said. Set to factory specs and always run at full throttle. Hard to school a 78 year old man. His last purchased rider has lasted his son 3 years now, running as manufacturer specified.

Anyone can say what they will, manufacturers do recommend conditions for use for a reason in my honest opinion.

On the creeper front, I saw the shelf their on. Even spied the box. But I couldn't climb the mountain to reach the summit, so to speak.
Harry B....i had 'er at about 3/4 throttle and she didn't seem to mind....mind you...i had the deck almost as high as it would go.....
Well, I'm not going to get into an argument over engine speed.

The tractor is 46 yrs old, all original, runs perfect, does not use a drop of oil after my 10 yrs of ownership.

Maybe I will get my infrared thermometer and do some experimenting after I get the 149 back together. Get some real work information.
I have to agree with others, if it's getting worked, it's at WOT. Mowing, pushing snow, tilling, throwing snow, plowing.... etc, its wide open (~3600). I do this with the 14's and 16's, and Dad does it with his M18 in his 782. We get into the 1,000's of hours before they need any love, and normally it's just a new rod, piston and rings due to ring wear. Check the gas and fill the oil...... the only time I don't run WOT is moving them around, no load. Loading on the trailer, moving in or out of the garage, or hopping off to move something while using it... With the 14's and 16's, they run a bit smoother at WOT.
getting ready to make a hiller for my brinly tt 100 i have the disk and 3/4 inch rod for the clamp what size pipe should i use for the 3/4 bolt to mount the disk