Archive through July 09, 2018

[kide]

Larry - didn't mean to ruffle your feathers, just passing along some wisdom I was given by an engine guy. As far as the balance gears- I was on the wrong side of that argument a few years ago - my point of view was if the shaft and gears weren't worn - out of tolerance, then I'd keep 'em - that Kohler engineers knew what they were doing.. I thought I' get drummed outa here on that one.... I just keep quiet about 'em now. LOL

 

[eford]

Thad, I'm at a loss for what you're trying to ask.

I got into an argument with Kentuck once, I learned several lessons that day! I like this place better than anywhere else, honest and truthful answers, usually with very good reasons behind them.

After the discussion about mower deck noise, I really listened to my 44a on the 1200, then dad's on his 1450. I may have to do some inspections on the bearings, still turns fine and is greased well, but is louder than his. So many projects....

 

[snicklas]

One thing I noticed recently, with mower deck noise, is it could be the balance of the blades causing some of the noise. I am running a decent 44A on my 1650. I keep up with the grease, and try and keep everything clean. It’s had a bit of noise this year, nothing alarming, but it was there. I sharpen the blades every few mowings, but the blades were getting “thin”. The ends came more to a point, rather than square. Dad brought over some parts, so I was working on the tractors over the weekend. I had to replace one of the spirol pins in the lift, so I had the deck off. One of the things he brought was a really nice set of blades from a deck he had picked up. Looked like they had been recently replaced. I swapped them on and noticed, not only did it cut much better, the deck running was much quieter. I think a slight imbalance in th blades can translate into noise in the deck.

 

[lkortkamp]

Gerry, we're good. No offense. I know it is one of those things, like motor oil, car manufacturer or politics that can send people sideways real quick like. I offer my opinion and let it go at that. I enjoy the information from this site and don't want to loose that from being a richard-head.

I don't lug my tractor, I use the power that is needed for the job. Being what it is, I feel using just slightly under WOT is better and has not hurt the engine in any way. I won't say I'm an expert, but with my 23 yrs of drag racing, building engines, trans, rearends, welding, machining background I think I have not done anything wrong.

I wiggled the balance gears. They are not tight fitted. The shaft they ride has oil clearance, you can just wiggle the gears. The teeth themselves look fine, no sharp edges. The inside of the engine is spotless. Like I said, it runs perfect, never used a drop of oil since I bought it. It does have a slight "noise", which I'm guessing is the balance gears "rattling"? It is not a rod knock, it has been there since day one and why I get edgy about running it hard.

As for mower deck noise. I agree, some have inherent noises, more like wind noise from the blades. I'm sure there are all kinds of designs out there. I was just flabbergasted how dead quiet this 42" deck is with all new parts in it. You can not tell it is running, and after the last 10 yrs of it howling it will be a PLEASURE to mow.

 

[tbergh]

Let me try to explain this in a different way I would like to built a hiller for my brinly toolbar. I have the 3/4 inch bar that mounts in the clamp. I need to weld a pipe at the bottom of the bar for the bolt that disk rolls on wondering what size or type of pipe I should use the bolt is 3/4 inch bolt
Thanks thad

 

[digger]

Thad B.
Personally, I'd like to see a pic or 2 to get the full picture of what your trying to get done.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I believe Thad is trying to make his own style BB-342 hiller and is asking for advice on what size pipe to use on the bottom of item #1 (in the drawing) for the 3/4" bolt, item #6, to pass through. Note that the Brinly part uses a "bearing" item #2 (which I believe may be a bronze sleeve bushing) inside the pipe for the 3/4" bolt to pass through.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Thad, I would start with finding a 3/4" ID bronze sleeve bearing and then size the pipe to fit the bearing. Perhaps something like this: McMaster-Carr 1 or this one McMaster-Carr 2

 

[sblunier]

Thad,

Go to Agri Supply Co. (online) and buy the whole hiller assembly (shank/bearing/disk). They are cheap enough and save you all of the issued of trying to create a bearing.

https://www.agrisupply.com/searchcenter.aspx?keyword=disk+hiller&prv=&adv=&hawkb=

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, wow, those whole assemblies are just a bit more (or even less) than just a single 3" x 3/4" bronze sleeve bushing/bearing.