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Archive through July 02, 2012
- Thread starter wbest
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Bill-
You probably need to pull that engine and do some helicoil work. A bottom tap would be helpful too to clean the good holes. I'd also bet the wear button wasn't adjusted quite right. It should only be in contact with a moving pto for a few seconds at most. Other than that it shouldn't be in contact at all. After you get the engine mounted solid again it will probably adjust up just fine.
Terry-
That's the coolest 147 I know of. Let us know how the engine runs/vibrates after the grenade gears. I plan to do it to mine before I even work it.
You probably need to pull that engine and do some helicoil work. A bottom tap would be helpful too to clean the good holes. I'd also bet the wear button wasn't adjusted quite right. It should only be in contact with a moving pto for a few seconds at most. Other than that it shouldn't be in contact at all. After you get the engine mounted solid again it will probably adjust up just fine.
Terry-
That's the coolest 147 I know of. Let us know how the engine runs/vibrates after the grenade gears. I plan to do it to mine before I even work it.
Narrow frame hydraulic lifts:
Can anyone find the proper length for the "spacers" (#21 in the instruction manual). Of all the parts diagrams and parts catalog listings, I just see it referred to as a "spacer" with no length given. I could make an educated guess based on bolt length, but since it effects belt tension, I thought someone might be able to measure one. Thanks!!
Can anyone find the proper length for the "spacers" (#21 in the instruction manual). Of all the parts diagrams and parts catalog listings, I just see it referred to as a "spacer" with no length given. I could make an educated guess based on bolt length, but since it effects belt tension, I thought someone might be able to measure one. Thanks!!
Wyatt C.
7/8" wide, 7/16" thick with the 3/8" hole in the center.
The bolts are 3/8" x 1" long.
7/8" wide, 7/16" thick with the 3/8" hole in the center.
The bolts are 3/8" x 1" long.
Terry, got any blueprints for the loader? Where did you put e pump? What did you use for a reservoir?
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Howdy All. This heat is finally getting to me. My brain isn't working like it should and I'm currently stumped on the 70 that I just brought home. A little carburetor work and an older battery that works however it is just too weak to start a tractor without being recharged so I've been jumping the battery to help start the 70. It will fire right up however as soon as I pull the jumper cables it stops. I did have to put a spare starter/generator on it since the tractor was minus that and a condensor and a coil. I'd appreciate any thoughts on what I am failing to see or have failed to do when I added the starter/generator or ???.
Marty G. As soon as I get it running and it will stay running then I'll post some pictures of it. One thing for sure. It doesn't smoke at all.
Marty G. As soon as I get it running and it will stay running then I'll post some pictures of it. One thing for sure. It doesn't smoke at all.
mgwin
Well-known member
Marlin,
I would put money on the voltage regulator being the issue. I had the same problem a while back. There is also a good section (question #47) on checking the starter/generator in Charlie's frequently asked questions.
I would put money on the voltage regulator being the issue. I had the same problem a while back. There is also a good section (question #47) on checking the starter/generator in Charlie's frequently asked questions.
Marlin, I'd start by checking the output voltage of the starter/generator. If the battery is dead and the starter/generator isn't putting out any voltage, there's no voltage to the coil and nothing to fire the plug.
Doug,
Probably only the 129. Does it have a dip stick in the cam cover under the carb? If you would list the spec number of the engines, it would be easier to answer you question, since there are 10 spec number 10hp engines with the balance gears, and 47 of the 12 hp, (not all of them used in Cub Cadets), but the cam cover dipstick, or two dipsticks, normally means the engine has balance gears.
Probably only the 129. Does it have a dip stick in the cam cover under the carb? If you would list the spec number of the engines, it would be easier to answer you question, since there are 10 spec number 10hp engines with the balance gears, and 47 of the 12 hp, (not all of them used in Cub Cadets), but the cam cover dipstick, or two dipsticks, normally means the engine has balance gears.
bcarl
Well-known member
My July 4th holiday is a cub holiday so far. The 122 made one heck'uva noise around the flywheel housing while mowing. Pulled the engine and here's what I found. Every dang vane was busted. At least the flywheel came off fairly easy with a puller.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
More progress with the 109 last night.
As I said in an earlier post, I installed a new fiber button and it lasted about 10 seconds. I got a new bronze button on order and a PTO adjustment tool too.
In the mean time, I installed a brass bolt, shimmed with brass washers so I could continue tinkering with the PTO clutch to determine it's overall condition. The brass bolt head seems to work very well for now as a pto button.
I installed the 44-1U deck and that was an adventure. My mower carrier for the 109 is missing the threaded rod that tightens the mule drive pulley, so I figured I'd use the carrier off my 1650 complete. Didn't work. After some muscle busting, sweat and some finer talk to the 109, I found it impossible to mount the deck...
So what I did was take the 109's mower carrier and swap the 1650's mule drive assy and re-mounted the carrier. The carrier from the 109 was bowed down at the back and that was what I needed to attach the rear deck brackets. The front prongs (forgive my lack of proper wording on these parts) were also more pointed. The carrier off the 1650 was straight back vs bowed. After I got the deck mounted, I later looked at the manual and from what I can tell, the carrier off the 1650 is for a 38 inch deck, not the 44 or 50 inch deck and that was the difference/difficulty in mounting.
I put the belt I had on the pto/mower and used-up about all the adjustment in the mule drive, fired-up the tractor (after greasing the deck spindles) and gave it a try.
The spindles are noisy and they would come to a stop if I hit tall grass. I think I need a slightly shorter belt - I'm thinking the 38 inch deck has a different length belt than the 44 inch.
As for the PTO, from a cold start with the deck and belt in place, it doesn't spin when disengaged, but after running it, it continues to drive the deck belt when disengaged.
The 10 hp engine in this 109 fires right-up and sounds great (knock on wood) with a load and high rpms. I'm going to try to mow with it later this week for a try.
As for the deck spindles. Should I continue to fill them with grease until they stop making noise (sounds like bad bearings to me) and/or run them until one seizes? These are the water pump bearings, so there is no rebuilding them as I understand it - only replacement, hence my though about running them to death.
As I said in an earlier post, I installed a new fiber button and it lasted about 10 seconds. I got a new bronze button on order and a PTO adjustment tool too.
In the mean time, I installed a brass bolt, shimmed with brass washers so I could continue tinkering with the PTO clutch to determine it's overall condition. The brass bolt head seems to work very well for now as a pto button.
I installed the 44-1U deck and that was an adventure. My mower carrier for the 109 is missing the threaded rod that tightens the mule drive pulley, so I figured I'd use the carrier off my 1650 complete. Didn't work. After some muscle busting, sweat and some finer talk to the 109, I found it impossible to mount the deck...
So what I did was take the 109's mower carrier and swap the 1650's mule drive assy and re-mounted the carrier. The carrier from the 109 was bowed down at the back and that was what I needed to attach the rear deck brackets. The front prongs (forgive my lack of proper wording on these parts) were also more pointed. The carrier off the 1650 was straight back vs bowed. After I got the deck mounted, I later looked at the manual and from what I can tell, the carrier off the 1650 is for a 38 inch deck, not the 44 or 50 inch deck and that was the difference/difficulty in mounting.
I put the belt I had on the pto/mower and used-up about all the adjustment in the mule drive, fired-up the tractor (after greasing the deck spindles) and gave it a try.
The spindles are noisy and they would come to a stop if I hit tall grass. I think I need a slightly shorter belt - I'm thinking the 38 inch deck has a different length belt than the 44 inch.
As for the PTO, from a cold start with the deck and belt in place, it doesn't spin when disengaged, but after running it, it continues to drive the deck belt when disengaged.
The 10 hp engine in this 109 fires right-up and sounds great (knock on wood) with a load and high rpms. I'm going to try to mow with it later this week for a try.
As for the deck spindles. Should I continue to fill them with grease until they stop making noise (sounds like bad bearings to me) and/or run them until one seizes? These are the water pump bearings, so there is no rebuilding them as I understand it - only replacement, hence my though about running them to death.
Hey guys, I seem to have a little issue that I can't figure out on my 147. When I'm mowing and the PTO is engaged the lever for the PTO wants to work its way back into the position where the brass button begins to rub on the PTO causing the mower deck to slow, not to completely turn off, but slow. Therefore, it has rubbed the brass button down quite quickly. Not sure how to fix that from happening. I have never had this problem, the lever has always been fine. Now I have to hold the lever forward to keep the PTO engaged fully. Thanks for the help.
Wes, I think that happened to me once on my 126, I had to check the linkage arms to make sure they were still bent at a 90 degree and checked the hole to make sure it was not wallowed out and then had to either lengthen or shorten the likage up a bit. I think there was some other things I checked on, I just can't remember all.
