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Archive through January 19, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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This is my attempt at humor. I'll blame the quality of that humor on my computer!
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Terry,
I guess we should use something like
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or
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when we're making a funny.

I still in the learning curve here on who does what.
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I can't believe I fell for the reset button.


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Jeff
 
Jim S. -

Tom's probably right - exhaust can plug that chute right up. You can fold up your own deflector or you can order part 107 117 C1 - it attaches with a standard hose clamp.

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Also need to add a shameless plug for the PointSaver. The 169 sat for just over 2 weeks in the unheated & uninsulated garage with only the trickle charger plugged in. Those in the area know what the temps were like for the last 2 weeks.

Tonight, in preparation for potential disappointment, I mean snowstorm, tomorrow night, I cranked it up and it started on the second crank. It woulda started on the first if I had the choke in the right spot.
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Jeff,
You have to admit, picturing you looking for the reset button made the joke ten times funnier.
I am still chuckling.

Sorry,
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I just got back in from working on my 125. I set the carb to factory specs and it fired right up.
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It was way off, the setting were about double what they should have been.

I also checked my timing and the mark was dead centered in the hole.

I also hit the red reset button
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Now I'm ready for the 'nor easter that is supposed to hit saturday and sunday. 6 to 12" inches maybe more. ( we'll see )

Thanks for the help
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Jeff
 
Marcus ,Ken ,and Steve. I got the pic of the 149 here (I think) not sure of who posted it .

(Message edited by rpatton on January 20, 2005)
 
Kevin "D"2,
Just noticed the neat IH thingy. Cool!

(Message edited by thoffman on January 20, 2005)
 
Since i just got my new beval gear today and have started to reassemble my snowthrower, I noticed that the chain that drives the auger is REAL loose. Should I tighten thi thing up tight, or leave a little deflection? If so, how much?

Any other advice or reccomendations that you all have? Oh, Bearings are good and I greesed every place ai could well.
Thanks. Todd
 
I figure you know what Illust.9 looks like but here it is anyway.
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(Message edited by cproctor on January 20, 2005)
 
}MR. PLOW and anyone who might know.
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Ater looking at the ad for the 500,000th Cub Cadet, I was wondering if you know the serial number on that machine?
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More tear down and fix up-I was asking about the button on the lift/lower handle the other day, I easily unscrewed the button, took out the spring. Before, I couldnt get the "tooth" (at the bottom of the handle)to snap into a notch. Warm weather or cold. (does this make any sense?) Anyway, does it sound like I just need a new spring or complete dissassembly and clean out and lube? that would be easy. Anyone have a cross section of what that handle is? THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!! Dave P
 
Larry,

I think Ken Updike knows (might be in his book).

I also remember hearing somewhere that IH/CIH/CNH still owns the 500,000 tractor.
 
David P., the lift handle is just a tube with a rod inside. Make sure that the lift handle tube is not bent. I may be wrong here but I believe the 71,1x2/3 series and prior models lift handles were prone to bending under heavy use. The 72, 1x4/5 and later models were stronger. How does the spring look? If it is all rusty it has likely lost some metal and thus much of it's strength. (The spring in my Original lift handle was very rusty and very weak, the replacement was much stronger.) Also if the inside of the lift handle tube is all rusty the rod won't travel as freely.
 
I don't have the serial number recorded for the 500K Cub Cadet, but I have seen it in person. C-IH still has this stored in a "secret" location the last time I saw it.

Maybe an "exploratory" trip to Chi-Town is needed to put this story to press..........

I have asked the question to MTD but have yet to get an answer. When is/was the 1 millionth Cub Cadet made??
 
Charlie, Thanks for the info. I also just got a new cast Iron Pully to put back on it as well. Now if I can just get it all back togetherand mounted on the 128 before it snows...(Between wrestling practice, duties required by my wife, kids and ....well you all now the deal!)
 
DAVID - Be careful when working on those lift handles. I broke a lift arm off My CC 72 two years ago when running My center mounted grader blade and removed the rockshaft to weld it back on. In the process I broke the top button off the lift handle, then twisted the rod inside the handle off. The long rod is "NLA" according to the parts books. Have to buy the whole assembly new or used. And sliding the rod up from the bottom, at least on My 72 bends the rod enough it won't work. I finally was able to slide the new rod in from the top, then heat & bend the rod on the bottom to engage the slots in the quadrant. I almost converted to the add-on hyd. lift that winter..... would have been quicker!
 
Todd G.

Some things I have leaned over the years on the snow thowers drive maintance are:
Geasing the needle bearing on either side of the sproket, I found that slowly rotating the shaft by hand while squeezing the grease gun slowly seems to fully grease all the needles. Not doing so, it seems the grease quirts out of the bearing near where it entered. After the last rebuild I only have been using a fully synthetic grease.

I check chain tention before each use, and adjust if needed. Obvoiusly the adjustment bolts must be turned evenly or the sprocket will become misaligned with the chain. I don't use the thrower with the guard on (safety problem I know),so I can see what is going on during use.

I have found that a waterproof chain, wire rope and cable lube from McMaster Carr (#1579K2) seems to stay on the chain and sprockets longer. Other lubes I have used seem to disappear during use, because apon the next use of the thrower I noticed some light rust on the chain and sprockets.Mainly on the rollers and teeth.

I also place bronze thrust bearings between the small sprocket (2, one on each side) and aluminum mount bracket. The sprocket over 30+ years removed/wore down the cast aluminum down to the point that the needle bearings were in contact with the sprocket.
 
Jim P., thanks for the tip on rotating the shaft while greasing the needle bearings on the snowthrowers. I'll have to try that next time I grease mine, which, if the weather guessers are correct, will be tonight. Good idea on the bronze thrust bearings too. I know when I refurbished my QA42 that aluminum casting was well worn. I seem to recall that I added some washers (mainly as spacers) but I know they were not bronze. Next time I have it apart for servicing I'll have to remember to change them out for bronze thrust bearings.
 

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