Ray, I'll try to remember to take some photos of the strobe that show how the PO mounted it.
-
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Archive through January 19, 2005
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
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Kraig,
Ray was asking about the strobe lite on you tractor. Well calling it a "Mars" light tells that he's from the Chicago area. The first strobe or oscilating lights were made buy a guy that worked for the Mars Candy Candy Co. in Chicago burbs (want to say River Grove/Forest) and the Co. put up the front $$. for him
Ray was asking about the strobe lite on you tractor. Well calling it a "Mars" light tells that he's from the Chicago area. The first strobe or oscilating lights were made buy a guy that worked for the Mars Candy Candy Co. in Chicago burbs (want to say River Grove/Forest) and the Co. put up the front $$. for him
Dave K.
Your right about squirting a little water in the carb while it's running it will clean the carbon out real fast, I've done this many times years ago, it's kind of like a car that has a head gasket that's letting anti-freeze into the cylinder, you never find much carbon in that cylinder when you take it apart,always nice and clean.
Your right about squirting a little water in the carb while it's running it will clean the carbon out real fast, I've done this many times years ago, it's kind of like a car that has a head gasket that's letting anti-freeze into the cylinder, you never find much carbon in that cylinder when you take it apart,always nice and clean.
I just came back in from clearing the 3" of snow we got. The weight bracket worked great.
I had a very tough time getting my 125 started
. I couldn't get it started until I took off the air cleaner, then it caught. This was after many attempts with the jumper on the battery ( battery was new in spring )
I rebuilt the carb in sept. There was grime in the glass bowl under the tank and crud in the carb. Seem to start easy. I put the adjustment settings where they were before.
3 weeks ago it wouldn't start ( seemed to be weak spark ) so I replaced the plug ( motorcraft ) , points, condenser, plug wire. The air cleaner was replaced when I rebuilt the carb.
I set the points with a wire feeler gauge at .020 . I did not use the timing light to fine tune them. Is this easy to do?
Any ideas on where I went wrong or need to reset something?
Thank you very much
Jeff
I had a very tough time getting my 125 started
I rebuilt the carb in sept. There was grime in the glass bowl under the tank and crud in the carb. Seem to start easy. I put the adjustment settings where they were before.
3 weeks ago it wouldn't start ( seemed to be weak spark ) so I replaced the plug ( motorcraft ) , points, condenser, plug wire. The air cleaner was replaced when I rebuilt the carb.
I set the points with a wire feeler gauge at .020 . I did not use the timing light to fine tune them. Is this easy to do?
Any ideas on where I went wrong or need to reset something?
Thank you very much
Jeff,
My 147 runs and starts better after timing with a light. It is a two man job. One to look at the light and the other to adjust the points. If you had to take the air cleaner off you might have been running too rich. I would recommend tuning the carb. The procedure is in the manual. With the engine at normal operating temps, turn the high speed mixture screw in until the engine misses and backfires under a load. Then turn the screw 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Again there is more detail in the manual.
Oh, one more thing.....
If all else fails you can push the reset button. Its located next to the flywheel on the shaft side.
(Message edited by tcbusch on January 19, 2005)
My 147 runs and starts better after timing with a light. It is a two man job. One to look at the light and the other to adjust the points. If you had to take the air cleaner off you might have been running too rich. I would recommend tuning the carb. The procedure is in the manual. With the engine at normal operating temps, turn the high speed mixture screw in until the engine misses and backfires under a load. Then turn the screw 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Again there is more detail in the manual.
Oh, one more thing.....
If all else fails you can push the reset button. Its located next to the flywheel on the shaft side.
(Message edited by tcbusch on January 19, 2005)
stanner
Well-known member
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Kraig, Wyatt,
geez you guys bring back memories...
I did everything that you did with the boost, etc... man i miss that toy...
to keep it on topic, finally got to use the snowthrower tonight.. until the key fell out of the driveshaft to gearbox joint..... AAARRGGHH!!
(Message edited by stanner on January 19, 2005)
geez you guys bring back memories...
I did everything that you did with the boost, etc... man i miss that toy...
to keep it on topic, finally got to use the snowthrower tonight.. until the key fell out of the driveshaft to gearbox joint..... AAARRGGHH!!
(Message edited by stanner on January 19, 2005)
Scott T and anyone else that uses a thrower,
While it sometimes seems that IH made everything so well that we just get on or attach things and not think of checking the small things. Every year we hear stories of guys breaking this or loosing keys or other things, I sometimes wonder why it is that we don't take 5 minutes before each startup to check the small things to make sure everything is tight and works as designed.
Come on guys, there's no excuse for not doin it.
Maybe because my dad never greased, changed oil or checked anything, I've become paranoid when it comes to that sorta thing.
Also Scott T., The email address in your profile is broke.
(Message edited by cproctor on January 19, 2005)
While it sometimes seems that IH made everything so well that we just get on or attach things and not think of checking the small things. Every year we hear stories of guys breaking this or loosing keys or other things, I sometimes wonder why it is that we don't take 5 minutes before each startup to check the small things to make sure everything is tight and works as designed.
Come on guys, there's no excuse for not doin it.
Maybe because my dad never greased, changed oil or checked anything, I've become paranoid when it comes to that sorta thing.
Also Scott T., The email address in your profile is broke.
(Message edited by cproctor on January 19, 2005)
F
farmall gray
Guest
On the smaller pulley thing. All the weld-a-pulleys I have seen were for 1/2" and 5/8"
(A and B section) belts. I was wondering what kind of belt life you guys are getting running
the 3/8" belts in those pulleys. I have been thinking about making this mod to mine too. The snow equipment hasn't got much attention this year
since I haven't had to use any of it this year yet. Our total snow fall this season up to now is
about 5" and it didn't all come at once. Average
is about 20" and last year we had over 30".
(A and B section) belts. I was wondering what kind of belt life you guys are getting running
the 3/8" belts in those pulleys. I have been thinking about making this mod to mine too. The snow equipment hasn't got much attention this year
since I haven't had to use any of it this year yet. Our total snow fall this season up to now is
about 5" and it didn't all come at once. Average
is about 20" and last year we had over 30".
I justed used a plain ole cast iron jack shaft pulley. I ain't got time for all that weldin crap.
J
jamante
Guest
Just a quick thank you to everyone, especially
Myron, re my Cub Cadet lawn sweeper. Wasn't
sure whether it was worth trying to restore it to
original chrome, or simply work the plastic tarp
to threads and enjoy the use. Not the first time
I thought I had a diamond only to realize it was
an MTD ;( -Joseph, who is glad to know there are
other Cubs in RI!
p.s. Anyone have a really good pic of a 129
restored to "show" or "exposition" quality? Just
trying to see what to aim for...ya know, clear
coats, etc.
Myron, re my Cub Cadet lawn sweeper. Wasn't
sure whether it was worth trying to restore it to
original chrome, or simply work the plastic tarp
to threads and enjoy the use. Not the first time
I thought I had a diamond only to realize it was
an MTD ;( -Joseph, who is glad to know there are
other Cubs in RI!
p.s. Anyone have a really good pic of a 129
restored to "show" or "exposition" quality? Just
trying to see what to aim for...ya know, clear
coats, etc.
CHARLIE , TODD - Not sure about other local farm/fleet stores but the BLAINS F&F and the MILLS F&F around My part of the midwest also stock the cast iron pulleys around the electric motor aisle. And a good plain old hardware store may also have them in common sizes. The 3/4" shaft on the blower should be easy to find. I wouldn't want to run a diecast pulley, but even they would probably work for a while. The OEM pulleys were made by BROWNING and there are plenty of alternative mfg's. A Motion Industries outlet, Grainger, or McMaster-Carr would also stock them. I've used the weld together pulleys on some L&G equip like My vacuum unit but doesn't take near the HP a snow blower does.
As far as Mars warning lights go...they are still popular as novelty items on fire trucks. We have an original Mars 888. Thats basically a sealed beam spot bulb which moves back and forth in a horizontal plane...while at the same time moving up and down in a vertical plane...thus making the figure 8 pattern of light. Kinda neat. Many variations still exist.
A nice strobe on a Cub is easy to find. Among many places, AW Direct sells alot of amber products for towing applications. Strobes, Halogen etc. Strobes or LED beacons are probably ideal for Cubs since the amp draw can be as low as 1/10th of an amp. A halogen rotator can draw as much as 5-6 amps typically with a 50W bulb.
http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=dir&linkid=68&linkon=section
(Message edited by ncostello on January 20, 2005)
A nice strobe on a Cub is easy to find. Among many places, AW Direct sells alot of amber products for towing applications. Strobes, Halogen etc. Strobes or LED beacons are probably ideal for Cubs since the amp draw can be as low as 1/10th of an amp. A halogen rotator can draw as much as 5-6 amps typically with a 50W bulb.
http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=dir&linkid=68&linkon=section
(Message edited by ncostello on January 20, 2005)
One other thought on getting the best performance out of your snowthrower make sure that your PTO clutch is in top shape. If it's slipping it won't work very well.
