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Archive through January 15, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Actually I was thinking the hydro drive worked like a gear drive. In other words the hydro pump was bi-directional. The more I think about it the more that wouldn't work. Even if the pump was bi-directional the suction tubes and the filter would be running the wrong way. So I retract my original suggestion.
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I think flipping the engine is the answer.
 
Keith W.,

The Sundstrand crew planned for bi-directional rotation of the hydro input shaft. To reverse rotational direction (while keeping all controls functioning normally) unbolt the charge pump (two bolts), rotate the housing 180 degrees, then refit and tighten bolts. That's all there is to it.
 
James S:

Enclosed, is a Diagram of a typical Kohler Rectifer as seen on the Q/L and 82 Series. I have outlined the voltage checking points. Please follow the manuals procedures. Now, a digital VOM will give you erroneous readings if you are not measuring the proper scale, ie: DC voltage on a AC Scale and vice versa. Measure the two outside terminals using the AC Scale on the meter and the middle terminal to ground on the DC Scale.

This is assuming, that the V/R is properly grounded to the chassis and back to the battery.

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BTW...The 28VAC is considered MAXIMUM voltage and the middle terminal is 14.7VDC MAXIMUM voltage. The 12VDC was meerly to differentiate between AC & DC voltages.

(Message edited by rbedell on January 16, 2006)
 
Hi All.

Dennis F.- Thanks for the story on the 1206. You are right that there aren't a whole lot of them around. Even my dad's is a bit of a junkyard dog as it has the larger 1256 engine in it. Also when he had the transmission/rearend gone through back in about 1984 it was found to have quite a few "oddball" parts in it. His is a bit different though as it is a factory non-TA equipped tractor. At least now with the new paint job it got this spring it looks like a 1206 instead of another model
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Kent
 
James
Why disconnect the wires when checking for 28vac? It needs to be there when hooked up to work, perhaps with no load the pulses are aggravating the meters.
JH
 
Finally got a chance to mess with the "new 129" (the former 109). The carb throttle shaft was so loose that the engine needed the choke about half out to run, and even then it was lean, according to the glow from the muffler. Rebuilt a carb from the shelf, put it on, and it didn't want to start. You could hear the pffft, pffft, pffft, pffft each time, and smell unburned fuel, but it wouldn't take off. Checked the points, looked good, but ran some paper through them anyway. Good. Set the gap from it's .025" to .020. Tried again, no go. Went to check the timing, but there is no mark on the side of the flywheel. Hooray. Set the plug gap on a new plug. No go. Changed the plug wire with one from another engine. Still stubborn. Hooked the charger to the battery for a while and drank a cup of coffee.
Went back out to the garage, and had it going in about a minute. Want me to tell you now, or do you want to guess?
I think I'll let you guess.
I had no belt-driven implement handy, so I let it warm up, then did some wheelies to "put a load on it" before doing the final carb adjustments.

(Message edited by BMoore on January 16, 2006)
 
Here is my gator project that I have working on. Almost all fab work is done with the bed and the frame, I just have to put everything together
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Kraig: Can't take any credit for the "skids". The guy who owned the snowthrower before me made them. Just some off the shelf angle iron cut at a 45 degree angle and welded up. That's about the only good thing he did. I didn't realize how much time and money could be put into a QA rebuild: bearings, sprockets, POR-15, paint, wah wah wah!!!
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Peter, I like the way those are made. I may have to make a set like that, kind of a "high floatation" version to try on my QA42 in place of the skids I made up. Thanks. Here's what mine look like.

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New to the list.

I have a 105, and am wondering which mower decks will fit my machine.

IIUC, 38", 42" and 48" mower were options.

If I am purchasing a used deck, how do I determine if it will fit?
 
Hey Guys,
Could I get advice on the 100 grill? Was there only one design, or perhaps two? Also, The one I found has the larger battery box. Was this common for the 100, or a special option? and lastly were the steering wheel that matches the 1x2/3 series used later in the production (instead of the acorn nut and steel spoke steering wheel)? Thanks for your help.
 
I just found the answer on the large battery box, but when they switched to the smaller battery box, was it a clean break, or gradual phase in production?
 
Charlie,
Looking at that picture you posted. I bet today's marketing folks wouldn't put 4 to 6 year old kids crawling all over a lawn tractor that could chew a leg off. However, I'm sure the original picture wasn't intended to portray the cub as a play thing for young kids.
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Terry B,
Don't get me started on the state of of the world these days and how they handle kids.
The day I quit teaching school was the day they told us we couldn't whip a kids a$$ for doin wrong!!!!!!!!
 
Terry,

Actually, quite the opposite......the pics with kids on Cubs were always posted with a caption saying how many safety features the Cub had that prevented injuries and unauthorized operation.
 
Thanks for tips on charging system on 1450 I won't get a chance to check it till the weekend.
Jim
 
Bart, I believe there were 3 variations of the grill on the 70/100 but the difference is subtle and I forget what they are. If memory serves me correctly the steering wheel also was changed on the later 100s to the style used on the 1x2/3 series with the center cap in place of the acorn nut.
 
Terry, here's the caption that goes with the photo that Charlie posted:

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Marlin,
Thanks for the pics of your Cubs. Also, thanks for the e-mails. Been away from the Forum for a while as our VP resigned last week. . .

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