Archive through January 13, 2013

[bwittman]

Ryan,

Was that an IH baler? I ask because I don't know of one knotter on an IH baler that worked correctly. I kind of liked that, because when they had to stop and adjust the knotter, the guys on the hay rack behind the baler got a break.

 

[mballweg]

Hi guys, does anyone know what compression is supposed to be on a KT17? I have a service manual but it is at the shop right now. Thanks

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN W. - My pickup then was a '78 F150 SWB 4X4 with DANA 44 mono-beam frt axle, same axle used on almost ALL 1/2T and some 3/4 & 1T 4WD's, SUV's,, Ford, JEEP, IH, and Dodge/Chrysler. The truck had 8 birthdays and 80,000 hard city miles on it when I had the frt axle rebuilt, new ball joints, tie rods, spindle bearings & seals. I had the most problem with the frt brakes, the seals for the caliper pistons were a bad design and about 1-2 times a year the pistons would start sticking and I'd have to rebuild them. Dirt/sand would get behind the outer seal and lock them up. I still use two damaged pistons from that truck for ash trays in my shop. So yes, it was problaby the JT-6 that caused the over-heated bearings. I never have had a snow blade on ANY pickup I've ever owned, so it's not like I over-load the frt axle.

 

[dfrisk]

JONATHAN - I have seen the type of studs you desribed, just can't remember where.

On your frt axle mount, yes, you could use heat, but I'd try a large, meaning 15-18 inch crescent wrench, or prying & wedging something into the channel to straighten the sides first. Once you get the axle into the channel you need those sides tight against the axle casting. Most people replace the 3/4" pivot pin with a 3/4" bolt so they can tighten the channel up occasionally. With your flat bottom oil pan on your K241 you have plenty of room for the added length of the bolt over the OEM pin.

I think you'll be much happier with the #26 carb over the #30 in a K241. And I've never heard anyone say anything nice about a Walbro. If it doesn't have a main fuel mixture needle I wouldn't use it.

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN W. - Our little baling crew with an IH # 55-T baler, then later a #37 PTO baler consisted of THREE people in the field. One driving the tractor on the baler, one on the rack, and most days DAD sitting behind the knotters in all the dust tying the missed bales by hand!

I will say that the number of RED balers in our neighborhood was a WHOLE lot higher than the number of green balers, but most of the red ones were New Hollands and the percentage got higher and higher as the years went on.

 

[junderwood]

Matt,

Manual says greater than 15% split or less than 90 psi is bad. You can download the manual from Kohler's web page or Charlie probably has it in the manual section too.

 

[thoffman]

Doing some moving of all my IH books and such and did a little drop in on Hank Will's Garden Tractors book. On page 63 it talks of Harold Schramm making a visit to a dealer in Elgin, illinois to compair tractors and get some designs. I'm glad to know that that dealer still exists. R---- H--- Inc. (not a advertisement) South Elgin and another store near me in Crystal Lake. Still selling Cub Cadets!

 

[digger]

Tom H.
It should be!

 

[mballweg]

Thanks for the help John. I am around 80, so a little concerned.

 

[thoffman]

Charlie,
Nope, he's in Elburn. Although Rob is a good guy, I just visited him last week.

 

[fcurrier]

Tom: I gots to know. Did you get the QA-36A from the 1ND?

 

[aaytay]

Ryan-
Did you say you found a 89hr 1812???

 

[mescarcega]

My father-in-law recently got a Cub Cadet 125. He lives in snow country and wanted a snow blower attachment. We couldn't find one here in Arizona, but did find a 38" John Deer attachment. New with all the hardware and belts just sitting on a pallet. Been outside awhile but it seems to be all there. SO, we are going to adapt it to the Cub Cadent. I was hoping one of you might have the original documentation on the Cub Cadet Snow Blower attachment mounting and operating instructions I might be able to get. Thanks in advance!
Marty
Mesa, AZ
martyDOTescarcegaATgmailDOTcom

 

[digger]

Marty E.
We have a manuals section ya know.

 

[tcbusch]

My wife got me a Hobart 700i plasma for Christmas.

I think she must be trying to chase me back out into the garage.

Its time to do the things that need to be fixed and improved on the one arm loader.

The things needed to be done:
1. Make the toolbox and fender 2 pieces instead of just one.
2. Replace the hydro seal to stop the leaky hydro.
3. Fix the hydro trunion.
4. Beef u the frame.

When I first built the loader I put the hydraulics in the toolbox under the seat.

I Cut and chopped the toolbox so I can remove the fender and keep the toolbox mounted on the tractor.

Next thing to do was to re-enforce the frame. I am using 1/4"x4"x1.25" angle iron. I do need to carve out a couple of areas for the brakes etc.

Next thing to do is to extend the loader frame to the front of the tractor to attach the brace for the upright. When lifting a heavy load the frame of the tractor has been twisting. Hopefully these mods will strengthen the frame to prevent the twist.

 

[tbdavis]

Anyone know offhand what the original finish was on the 126 and other series 5 units? Also curious what, if any, aftermarket products are available to get back that new" look. Thanks.

 

[tbdavis]

Sorry, looking for the finish on the grill. My bad.

 

[mgwin]

Terry,

I'm guessing shiny aluminum.

 

[fcurrier]

I always suspected that the one arm loaders might be a bit tippy:

Seriously, once you put one on it's side the pucker factor gets multiplied.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry D., the grills on the 1x4/5 and 1x6/7 were Cad (cadmium?) plated.