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Archive through January 09, 2009
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lchockensmith
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- Sep 17, 2008
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- Lucas Craig Hockensmith
So i'm at the stage of the original rebuild where its now the engine that is my main concern. Its pretty oily and greasy at this point. But when i'm ready to paint, is there a special HIGH HEAT paint i should use. Please any help would be greatful. Thanks
lchockensmith
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- Joined
- Sep 17, 2008
- Messages
- 47
- displayname
- Lucas Craig Hockensmith
here are some pictures of the recent activity that has been going on
there was a hairline crack around on the flange between the transaxel and the frame
hope to get a few more things painted and assembled
there was a hairline crack around on the flange between the transaxel and the frame
hope to get a few more things painted and assembled
Lucas, looking good!
BTW, good idea for painting bolts, I never thought of doing that but I'm gonna have to remember it next time I paint bolts.
LUCAS - I'm going to go one step futher than Steve and suggest to not paint the head, or any fins on the block, or the bearing plate the blower housing attaches to, or the oil pan. Paint is a real good insulator, keeps heat inside the engine which is not good on an air-cooled engine. Rust and accumulated dirt, and even a film of oil is an insulator too but why compound the problem. I also paint My engines with a thinned-out satin or semi-gloss black paint, It's not "Stock" for the models of Cubbies I have but all later model CC's used semi-gloss black engines for a good reason. On the sheetmetal covers I used My Eastwood powder coat gun with a gloss black powder. It resists oil and gas MUCH better than paint.
But it all depends on what You want to do with Your tractors. Mine work, sometimes for hours on end, if Your working on a Show tractor use the CC paint and don't run them any more than You have to.
Looks like Your CCO will be WAY to pretty to use when Your done. NICE JOB!
But it all depends on what You want to do with Your tractors. Mine work, sometimes for hours on end, if Your working on a Show tractor use the CC paint and don't run them any more than You have to.
Looks like Your CCO will be WAY to pretty to use when Your done. NICE JOB!
lchockensmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2008
- Messages
- 47
- displayname
- Lucas Craig Hockensmith
thanks guys i'll be sure not to overpaint anything on the engine.
On my show tractor, puller, mower ect. I did not paint the head at all. Just cleaned it up good. Plus I can not believe the guys that paint carbs. Sheesh!!!
Quick question guys does anybody know off the top of there heads how thick the cast iron shell for the rear transmission is?
Thank you in advance------Pops
Quick question guys does anybody know off the top of there heads how thick the cast iron shell for the rear transmission is?
Thank you in advance------Pops
Regarding paint, here's Killer, no paint on the head, no paint on the carb.
STEVE - I put 1400 HOBBS hour meter hours on a K241 Kohler doing everything from mowing, running the snow blower, plowing gardens and at several plow days, pulling My lawn aerator which pulls every bit as hard as My plow, pulling My lawn vac over My two-acre yard that can weigh up to 2000 pounds while running the mower deck And running it 12 hours straight without shutting it off. I didn't care about the paint on the engine...I'm worried about the engine lasting, not getting too hot, oil breaking down.
The only way to really know what makes a difference on engine cooling is to put gauges on Your engine...three are needed, Oil temp, cyl. head temp, and EGT.
The K321 I have in that tractor now is "cooling challanged", small dia. flywheel & blower housing. I need the gauges on it but I can't find room enough to mount them all. I've done a LOT of research about what temp. range all these things should run at. Even discussed with a couple Engineers who post here from time-to-time about what temps things should be. Maybe this next summer I'll make a panel and mount those gauges. It'll get a tach too. I've looked at many types of digital & analog gauges. They all seem to take up more room that I have available.
The only way to really know what makes a difference on engine cooling is to put gauges on Your engine...three are needed, Oil temp, cyl. head temp, and EGT.
The K321 I have in that tractor now is "cooling challanged", small dia. flywheel & blower housing. I need the gauges on it but I can't find room enough to mount them all. I've done a LOT of research about what temp. range all these things should run at. Even discussed with a couple Engineers who post here from time-to-time about what temps things should be. Maybe this next summer I'll make a panel and mount those gauges. It'll get a tach too. I've looked at many types of digital & analog gauges. They all seem to take up more room that I have available.
Pops, average of ~1/2" +/- ????
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Dennis F.-
I'd like to do something similar to monitor my engines. Where are you getting your CHT and EGT gauges and probes? There are combination CHT/EGT gauges for aircraft, but they are overkill and WAY too expensive for this application.
I'd like to do something similar to monitor my engines. Where are you getting your CHT and EGT gauges and probes? There are combination CHT/EGT gauges for aircraft, but they are overkill and WAY too expensive for this application.
Well i driled a hole in the 149 and installed a rear light,Plans for a switch in the seat suport.
Can`t waite for that grass to grow. I would love to be able to mow every 3 days lol, love the smell of fresh cut grass.
Can`t waite for that grass to grow. I would love to be able to mow every 3 days lol, love the smell of fresh cut grass.
Hello everybody,new here. I hope I'm posting this in the right place. I bought my first cub yesterday,couldn't beat the price,$200.00! Any how,I'm new to the garden tractor scene. Can some one please tell me how to find the year of it? All I know is it's a 105 Hydro. Thanks in advance.
MATT - Yep, looked at those aviation gauges too. I've spent hours looking at Autometer's web site, Stewart-Warner, Dakota Digital, and all the data loggers for pulling tractors & go-carts. All I want is engine RPM, oil & head temp. & EGT. Son & I almost put a spacer between the carb. & intake port on the K321 to monitor vacuum to determine engine load but I was in too big a hurry to get it running after having it in pieces for almost 4 years! And when We made the straight pipe Son suggested welding in a port for an O2 sensor so He could hook-up the wideband O2 sensor He hadn't bought yet. But I did almost put in a thermocouple port.
Couple months ago I found out there's a place about 6-1/2 miles from My house that does plasma coating & metal spraying. Another spin-off industry from UWM here in Madison. Be neat to take "before" readings, then plasma spray coat alumina ceramic to the piston top and combustion chamber in the head of a Kohler and see how much cooler it runs.
Then some day I'd like to build a straight alcohol engine....place over about a mile from where Son works, and Paul R. lives sells methanol race fuel, along with 108 octane leaded race gas.
From what I've seen racing gas R/C race cars VERY minor tuning changes make a HUGE difference in performance and temps in different parts of the engine. Just like Kohler's, running rich costs power & performance, and lean made them scream but reduced time between rebuilds from hours to minutes. Something as minor as putting in one heat range warmer glow plug varied timing enough to make a snotty rich engine send the engine head temp. through the roof. Or an eighth of a turn on the low end needle made a snappy engine turn into a total dog.
Tuning for endurance is totally different than tuning for performance.
Couple months ago I found out there's a place about 6-1/2 miles from My house that does plasma coating & metal spraying. Another spin-off industry from UWM here in Madison. Be neat to take "before" readings, then plasma spray coat alumina ceramic to the piston top and combustion chamber in the head of a Kohler and see how much cooler it runs.
Then some day I'd like to build a straight alcohol engine....place over about a mile from where Son works, and Paul R. lives sells methanol race fuel, along with 108 octane leaded race gas.
From what I've seen racing gas R/C race cars VERY minor tuning changes make a HUGE difference in performance and temps in different parts of the engine. Just like Kohler's, running rich costs power & performance, and lean made them scream but reduced time between rebuilds from hours to minutes. Something as minor as putting in one heat range warmer glow plug varied timing enough to make a snotty rich engine send the engine head temp. through the roof. Or an eighth of a turn on the low end needle made a snappy engine turn into a total dog.
Tuning for endurance is totally different than tuning for performance.
William, welcome!
The 105 was built between November 1967 and August 1969. If you compare your S/N to this chart you should be able to find the year and month it was built. The S/N is the number after the U on the S/N plate. Here's a link to the FAQ entry that'll help you find the S/N of your 105.
Scott,
Scott,
