Archive through January 03, 2011
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Gas Tank Repair - I recently adopted a barely living 126 and have pulled everything off the frame for inspection. I noticed the steel tank leaked around the fuel bowl. Today cleaning the tank I noticed small cracks around the tank outlet stem where the stem was soldered to the tank. I think this is the source of the fuel leak. Chances are someone like you guys has seen this before. I want to keep the tank so I'm looking for suggestions to repair it. I did see where the consensus here is that JB weld generally fails over time but using it crossed my mind!
1650 – serial # plate removal for painting? “Unethical?”
I’ve got a 1650 I’d like to do a detailed restore on – including sending the frame and sheet metal out for professional repainting. I’m concerned that between the cleaning and prep (on frame) I need to do, along with that the shop would also do, the serial number plate would become damaged or erased. (I realized the actual serial # is stamped – I’m referring to the black logo and lettering)
I’m wondering if I were to grind off (from the back) the rivets holding the plate on if there were tools/rivets to reattach it to OEM specs upon reassembly? I don’t want it too look like a hack job should I even want/need to sell the tractor. In the end the tractor would have the correct, original Kohler K341 engine, correct sticker pack and correct serial # plate – so it shouldn’t matter. Also, as I understand it, the frame and all else among the various models (1250, 1450, 1650) were the same amongst all the model. However, there is something that also doesn’t quite “feel” right about removing the plate and reinstalling it – especially if it were to not look 100% correct. Something along the lines of “faking” the 1650 – even though it seems silly for someone to do so.
Am I being over anal about the whole thing? If I were to go ahead with it, any ideas on where/how to get the proper rivets & tool to reinstall the plate?
Thanks,
-Calvin
I’ve got a 1650 I’d like to do a detailed restore on – including sending the frame and sheet metal out for professional repainting. I’m concerned that between the cleaning and prep (on frame) I need to do, along with that the shop would also do, the serial number plate would become damaged or erased. (I realized the actual serial # is stamped – I’m referring to the black logo and lettering)
I’m wondering if I were to grind off (from the back) the rivets holding the plate on if there were tools/rivets to reattach it to OEM specs upon reassembly? I don’t want it too look like a hack job should I even want/need to sell the tractor. In the end the tractor would have the correct, original Kohler K341 engine, correct sticker pack and correct serial # plate – so it shouldn’t matter. Also, as I understand it, the frame and all else among the various models (1250, 1450, 1650) were the same amongst all the model. However, there is something that also doesn’t quite “feel” right about removing the plate and reinstalling it – especially if it were to not look 100% correct. Something along the lines of “faking” the 1650 – even though it seems silly for someone to do so.
Am I being over anal about the whole thing? If I were to go ahead with it, any ideas on where/how to get the proper rivets & tool to reinstall the plate?
Thanks,
-Calvin
Calvin L.
Take a small pin punch and tap them out from inside the frame. BTDT many time!
Take a small pin punch and tap them out from inside the frame. BTDT many time!
CALVIN - I'd just put several layers of masking or duct tape over the serial number plate and tell your Professional Painter to not screw it up or you won't pay Him.
Replacement tags & rivets are available for many IH tractors but NOT CC's.
Replacement tags & rivets are available for many IH tractors but NOT CC's.
Calvin Ledford
don`t remove the plate. take lots off pictures so you can prove to yourself ,how it looked and how it turned out after the refurb.Tape and go around if needed.A cub is worth more to me untouched and once we paint them , They aren't ORIGINAL and never will be again. So be per paired to prove you improvements if you need to prove something to who?
don`t remove the plate. take lots off pictures so you can prove to yourself ,how it looked and how it turned out after the refurb.Tape and go around if needed.A cub is worth more to me untouched and once we paint them , They aren't ORIGINAL and never will be again. So be per paired to prove you improvements if you need to prove something to who?
looking for help, i did my bros 782 w/a replacement m khl last spring, low power, and did not start good, low comp. now my 782 w/a k ser2 was doing the same, both had the ring on pistons lined up. is this an issue w/the khl opposing piston engines? and is there a fix to make sure it does not happen again, short of offseting them when i assemble it again.
Marlin,
Thanks for older pictures of my 1450! I now am the owner of Mike C's 1450. It is now powering my snowblower for the winter while the 782 is restored as a 4H project.
The hood has been repainted and the oil pan will need new threads this spring, but for now, she does the job. It tilled up 1/2 acre of ground this past fall, about 8 miles due South of you.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for older pictures of my 1450! I now am the owner of Mike C's 1450. It is now powering my snowblower for the winter while the 782 is restored as a 4H project.
The hood has been repainted and the oil pan will need new threads this spring, but for now, she does the job. It tilled up 1/2 acre of ground this past fall, about 8 miles due South of you.
Thanks for sharing.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Thank's Tom. Appreciate ID'ing Brad. I'd like to find some more pictures of his tractor. Look's sweet! Who's the fluffy guy on the tractor next to him?
Matt G, After reading your post on the H-42 thrower, just how muh tension should be on the belt? I have one hooked up to a 582, and it doesnt seem to work as I think it should, but I am guilty of assuming the weight of the blower was enough. Do I need to have someone stand on the bracket for me while I tighten, or is there a better way?
Happy New Year!! I am working on my CC125. I am trying to dissassemble the Ross Steering box. I have removed the locking cotter pin so I can remove the adjusting plug. My problem is removing the adjusting plug. It is so tight, I cannot loosen it using a 1/2 inch drive rachet and a tool made to fit the slot on the bottom of the adjusting plug.
My question is should the plug be this tight? Is there something other than the cotter pin keeping the adjusting plug tight in the sterring box?
My question is should the plug be this tight? Is there something other than the cotter pin keeping the adjusting plug tight in the sterring box?
Randy Kuik,
I saw your post and can offer a few suggestions. The one thing your problem isn't , is the piston ring end gaps lining up. Rings normally rotate in the ring groves (slowly) over the life of the engine and they will align and misalign many times. This will not be an issue with a proper hone job on the cylinders, piston fitted at correct clearance, and ring end gaps checked during assembly. Top ring should have an end gap of .010/.020, the second ring should be the same plus .001/.005. Having the second ring gapped slightly wider assures the engine won't use oil.
A sudden loss of compression is usually head gasket or valve related. I'd check head bolt torque first. Check the valve lash and be sure that's to book specifications.
Hope some of these suggestions help.
I saw your post and can offer a few suggestions. The one thing your problem isn't , is the piston ring end gaps lining up. Rings normally rotate in the ring groves (slowly) over the life of the engine and they will align and misalign many times. This will not be an issue with a proper hone job on the cylinders, piston fitted at correct clearance, and ring end gaps checked during assembly. Top ring should have an end gap of .010/.020, the second ring should be the same plus .001/.005. Having the second ring gapped slightly wider assures the engine won't use oil.
A sudden loss of compression is usually head gasket or valve related. I'd check head bolt torque first. Check the valve lash and be sure that's to book specifications.
Hope some of these suggestions help.
Frank, on your CC125 steering box. The bearings have probably worn through the bearing cup and jammed the first couple of threads on the adjusting plug. I had this happen on one of the steering boxes I've rebuilt. It's not much fun to get it out. I ended up drilling a hole through the center of the plug,Ground out quite a bit more with a carbide burr an die grinder. and drilled,8, 1/4" holes around the o.d. of the plug and breaking it into pieces to get it out. It was stuck, stuck, stuck. I tried about everything before that. The bearing kit and plug will run you about 50 bucks, so you may be better off getting another box in the long run.
proessler
Well-known member
Wayne the brackets could be for mounting an Easy-Rake model #40 or #70 Vacuum , that would slide into the brackets & bolt to drawbar hole with a 5/8" cap screw & nut. I had to modify my hookup because of the need to mount a Cat.0 3 point hitch for my new 1811 20+ years ago...
when I mistakenly ? traded my 1450 in...
Dave C.
Check out both FAQ's at the top of the page and they will show you how to fix that problem.
Check out both FAQ's at the top of the page and they will show you how to fix that problem.
Warren, I went back into the shop and looked at my steering box. I do have what looks like the lower bearing race floating in the steering box with the bearings displaced, so I probably have a similar case as yours. I will do as you suggested and cut the old plug out.
Thanks for the help. Frank
Thanks for the help. Frank
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Steve T. Glad to post those for you. I'll try and find a couple of more for you. I can't remember if he did the frame rail mod or not. If he didn't then be sure to do that when you fix the oil pan leaks.
