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Digger;
Yes beleive me I know my 1250 has a manual lift.
We got 18 inches of wet heavy snow here in Charlotte. My arm just grew(stretched) 3 inches from lifting my front blade all morning.
I'm going to install a ported hydro etc. on my 1250
Yes beleive me I know my 1250 has a manual lift.
We got 18 inches of wet heavy snow here in Charlotte. My arm just grew(stretched) 3 inches from lifting my front blade all morning.
I'm going to install a ported hydro etc. on my 1250
Looks like the gear mesh and the bearing should get plenty of lube as long as the fluid level is up to where it should be. Though in this drawing they didn't show the Hy-Tran making it's way to the bearing.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Here are the parts in question:
Seems like there is plenty of room for oil to get both in and through the bearing...no seals, just a roller retainer and a little shoulder on the output shaft.
I know that assembly oil will leak thru the bearing and all over you jeans if you aren't carefull......BTDT, so I'm sure that the bearing is an "open" design.
The other two holes in the gasket are reliefs for the lower swash plate retaining cap screws.
Looks like Sunstrand redesigned the lower swash plate cap screw retainers in the very late 70's/early 80's. I wonder if it was to eliminate the "thin" gasket around the circumference of the 3 holes and the potential they created for leaks??????
(Message edited by sblunier on February 27, 2004)
Seems like there is plenty of room for oil to get both in and through the bearing...no seals, just a roller retainer and a little shoulder on the output shaft.
I know that assembly oil will leak thru the bearing and all over you jeans if you aren't carefull......BTDT, so I'm sure that the bearing is an "open" design.
The other two holes in the gasket are reliefs for the lower swash plate retaining cap screws.
Looks like Sunstrand redesigned the lower swash plate cap screw retainers in the very late 70's/early 80's. I wonder if it was to eliminate the "thin" gasket around the circumference of the 3 holes and the potential they created for leaks??????
(Message edited by sblunier on February 27, 2004)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Now there's something you don't often see...the inside of a hydro unit...
till
Well-known member
Did I mention that I hate...
Aluminum rearends...
Man waht a PITA to get out the bolts!
Wyatt,
I ran a tie wrap through the bearing cups before I removed them.
Aluminum rearends...
Man waht a PITA to get out the bolts!
Wyatt,
I ran a tie wrap through the bearing cups before I removed them.
F
farmall gray
Guest
I like to remove the fenders to do a good job of cleaning before removing a hydro pump. I also like to split the tractor and stand the rear axle up on end. And it is STILL hard to weasel that pump into place without screwing up the gasket.
I'm never in a big hurry when doing these cub projects. I always allow lots of time to do them.
That makes them relaxing, rather than stressful.
The reason the later tractors don't have the bolts is becuase they eliminated the thick bolt in swash plate. They made it cast into the housing with a thin thrust washer for the slippers to ride against. I just read a service bulliten about that that. They also increased the charge pump volume and raised the implement lift pressure. Tractors above SN 714408 had these changes.
I'm never in a big hurry when doing these cub projects. I always allow lots of time to do them.
That makes them relaxing, rather than stressful.
The reason the later tractors don't have the bolts is becuase they eliminated the thick bolt in swash plate. They made it cast into the housing with a thin thrust washer for the slippers to ride against. I just read a service bulliten about that that. They also increased the charge pump volume and raised the implement lift pressure. Tractors above SN 714408 had these changes.
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Lyle B. -
If the FAQ maintainer didn't have to work for a living, he'd be more than happy to take care of it. And he's only gonna get busier...
Meanwhile, start cutting and pasting Richard's post into your favorite word processor...
If the FAQ maintainer didn't have to work for a living, he'd be more than happy to take care of it. And he's only gonna get busier...
Meanwhile, start cutting and pasting Richard's post into your favorite word processor...
R
rmull
Guest
Yeah...that is what I am saying.
rchristensen
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Here is the inside of a 82 series hydro, you can compare with the one Steve B. posted.
sblunier
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Note that the cast motor swash plate has been removed in my pictures.
Todd,
Thanks for the Service Bulliten info......makes sense to me, one less part to machine.
Now then, thinking out loud.....a late model charge pump with the higher pressure relief spring could probably be retrofitted to an earlier model. I am almost sure this was to allow more hyd. for power steering and implement lift at the same time. I wonder if a late model would handle a loader better than one of the IH Cubs due to the increase, or if it's not enough to be noticeable.
Todd,
Thanks for the Service Bulliten info......makes sense to me, one less part to machine.
Now then, thinking out loud.....a late model charge pump with the higher pressure relief spring could probably be retrofitted to an earlier model. I am almost sure this was to allow more hyd. for power steering and implement lift at the same time. I wonder if a late model would handle a loader better than one of the IH Cubs due to the increase, or if it's not enough to be noticeable.
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Tedd/Wyatt-
Care to tell the rest of us what "tiewraps through the bearing cups" is about?
Tedd-
What Steve said....
Care to tell the rest of us what "tiewraps through the bearing cups" is about?
Tedd-
What Steve said....
rchristensen
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I guess I forgot to mention on the post with the picture of the 82 series hydro that there is no removable (fixed swash plate) like the one in Steve's post, therefore the two capscrews are not needed which account for two of the holes in the cork gasket.
There is a thin removable thrust plate that the back of the pistons run against and it sits against the housing in a fixed slanted postion.
This might not intrest many but when you work on these hydros you can't help but be impressed with the quality and the simple design, but you need to be careful and work in a clean environment or you can do some expensive damage.
There is a thin removable thrust plate that the back of the pistons run against and it sits against the housing in a fixed slanted postion.
This might not intrest many but when you work on these hydros you can't help but be impressed with the quality and the simple design, but you need to be careful and work in a clean environment or you can do some expensive damage.
Mounting the pump, part II: the prototype bracket;
This afternoon, I swung by my friendly steel-yard, and bought a chunk of 1/4" plate steel, a tad-bit larger than the template I made yesterday. I placed my template onto the plate, transferred position indicators for the hole-pattern centers, etc., and used a soapstone to mark the cutting-path. Using the cutting torch (with almost no acetylene left!), I cut the two holes- the minimal-precision hole around the crankshaft, and a smallish hole around what will be a more-precise fitting SAE "A" 2-bolt pump mount. Fortunately, I had enough gas left to cut the perimeter of the bracket... I was expecting Murphy to intervene and nix my gas-axe about halfway through those two holes, but I got lucky. Why is it that the welding-supply stores don't have 24-hour service at their drive-up windows?
Next, I knocked off the worst of the 'torch boogers' with hammer, chisel, and 4" angle grinder, placed it on the drill-press, and drilled just ONE of the engine-mount bolts, and hung it on the engine to see if it'd attract flies.
Although tonight's torch-work ain't great, it didn't attract flies. Would've rather had a nice laser-cut one, but that'll hafta wait 'till I get all the CAD file compatibility stuff figured out with the guys at the fab shop. Once I get that squared-away, and after I've had a chance to test this bracket under load, I'll pull this bracket off, and put on a laser-cut one so it's pretty. I could grind this one all down 'till it looks pretty, but I'm not really concerned about it's aesthetics- I'm more concerned about flex and clearances, so it'll probably get a stiffener-brace welded to it, and mebbie it'll get torched a bit more to make space for the loader's lift-arms, etc.
I moved the bracket back to the work-table, and placed one engine mount bolt through the electric clutch I got from Keith, and double-checked the locations of the remaining three holes. Lucky I did, too- some of 'em didn't transfer quite right from the cardboard template. (These things happen)
Then I opened up the pump-mount hole. Here's the rough opening, and the white line is about where the hole had'ta finish.
Yep- lots'a unneeded metal there, so I very carefully pushed some of it back with the torch, then got a handful of grinding stones and put'em in the 1/4" die-grinder [advance clock 2 hours] and now I've got a nice fit between the pump flange and that hole.
To be continued...
This afternoon, I swung by my friendly steel-yard, and bought a chunk of 1/4" plate steel, a tad-bit larger than the template I made yesterday. I placed my template onto the plate, transferred position indicators for the hole-pattern centers, etc., and used a soapstone to mark the cutting-path. Using the cutting torch (with almost no acetylene left!), I cut the two holes- the minimal-precision hole around the crankshaft, and a smallish hole around what will be a more-precise fitting SAE "A" 2-bolt pump mount. Fortunately, I had enough gas left to cut the perimeter of the bracket... I was expecting Murphy to intervene and nix my gas-axe about halfway through those two holes, but I got lucky. Why is it that the welding-supply stores don't have 24-hour service at their drive-up windows?
Next, I knocked off the worst of the 'torch boogers' with hammer, chisel, and 4" angle grinder, placed it on the drill-press, and drilled just ONE of the engine-mount bolts, and hung it on the engine to see if it'd attract flies.
Although tonight's torch-work ain't great, it didn't attract flies. Would've rather had a nice laser-cut one, but that'll hafta wait 'till I get all the CAD file compatibility stuff figured out with the guys at the fab shop. Once I get that squared-away, and after I've had a chance to test this bracket under load, I'll pull this bracket off, and put on a laser-cut one so it's pretty. I could grind this one all down 'till it looks pretty, but I'm not really concerned about it's aesthetics- I'm more concerned about flex and clearances, so it'll probably get a stiffener-brace welded to it, and mebbie it'll get torched a bit more to make space for the loader's lift-arms, etc.
I moved the bracket back to the work-table, and placed one engine mount bolt through the electric clutch I got from Keith, and double-checked the locations of the remaining three holes. Lucky I did, too- some of 'em didn't transfer quite right from the cardboard template. (These things happen)
Then I opened up the pump-mount hole. Here's the rough opening, and the white line is about where the hole had'ta finish.
Yep- lots'a unneeded metal there, so I very carefully pushed some of it back with the torch, then got a handful of grinding stones and put'em in the 1/4" die-grinder [advance clock 2 hours] and now I've got a nice fit between the pump flange and that hole.
To be continued...
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