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Archive through February 27, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Now, it's time to drill the pump's mounting-holes. Gotta drill-and-tap these, because there'll be a 6" diameter, 1" wide toothed-belt cog on the pump's shaft, and to make the pump bearings last a long time, and keep the pump mount from flexing, the cog will be really close to the mounting plate... no room for any hardware to stick through the plate. Mounting holes are drilled to 3/8", and tapped with a 7/16-14 tap. Then I mounted the whole mess on the front of the engine for a look-see...
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Kinda tight fit around that starter, but there's enough room to get in there to make the connection, and enough room to fish the starter out if it needs assistance.

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The bracket ain't pretty, but it'll work for now. If you look at the bottom of the pump (as it's mounted in my bracket), you'll see that there's a large port in the bottom center of the pump-body... that's the pump inlet... an SAE-12 fitting. This will connect to a removable spin-on filter bracket, which connects to my hydraulic reservoir. On the back of the pump, there's two ports- a small (SAE-6, and a large (SAE-8). The small is the 'priority' port. This port will connect to the INLET port of my Char-Lynn steering valve, through a tee with a pressure relief valve (set to about 800lbs/3gpm) The large port will connect to the INLET port of the loader/aux control valve that'll be located on the loader's right-side stanchion.

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When the hydro drive is installed, there'll be about 2.5" of driveshaft left, available for use for some other purpose!!! Perhaps an on-board welder or compressor...
 
Dave is the pump made to be side loaded? Some pumps are made to be direct coupled or direct coupled to a jacksaft.Side loading might cause bearing failure.Just something to think about.

(Message edited by mmasheris on February 28, 2004)
 
Steve B:
I can't remember the serial number from my '86 1512D, but its hydro unit is what's currently in the 129+ Twin. I'm not sure if that qualifies it as a "late model" unit, but there were no issues whatsoever with installing it on the older cast iron rear end.

My un-scientific opinion is that you CAN notice the difference in charge pressure in the lift. The 129+ lift seems to be faster acting than was the one on the 1512D. Due to the junk aluminum rear end that was under the D, I swapped in the entire cast assy from a 1450. I tossed the aluminum rear end (axle housing bolts "sealed" with plumber's putty) and kept all the good stuff for use in the project tractor.

Over & out,
Keith
 
Art,

Wyatt responded very quickly to my add in the sale section. He needed parts for the Wheatland project. I am keeping the shims with the bearing cups in orginal order and orantation.

Steve & Art,

In a nut shell I'm moving the trans-axle back about 15 inches. I need two frames to do this the way I want. I plan on cutting the red frame where the "wide" frame section starts. The line on the left in the attached picture (Yes it is on the yellow frame, I was working out the details on this one for now). The yellow frame will be cut 15 inches back from the wide frame section sarting point, the line on the right. The red rear section will be welded on to the yellow front section, the line on the right. The yellow rear section (the one removed in the first cutting) will then be added to the rear of the whole shooting match to wind up with a total of 49 inches fromt he wide section start to the rear of the frame.

And now you see why I will need the super steer axle up-grade.
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But this is just the start of Foxtrots transformation to a ... a ... a well I just don't know what to call the final product Put it will wind up with a Catagory 0, 3 point on the rear end. I don't want to call it a Plow special, but it may wind up being one....

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I don't know if anyone has noticed the all the tech pix and posts as of late, but I have. Keep up the good work and keep the posts comming!
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The balance gear discussion a couple days ago went somewhere as to ending up where the consensus was again to not use them, and the statement was made that Kohler stopped using them at some time, BUT there wasn't much solid to support that.

<font size="+2">WELL NOW . . . </font>
I was 99% sure that the engine I'm building up didn't have gears but I couldn't remember for sure. Well, here it is, a block out of a 1450, still with a std. bore, with freeze plugs in the bores where the balance gears should go. This shows that Kohler may not have quit putting in balance gears altogether, BUT definitely began selecting spec #'s that wouldn't get them.
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note the freeze plugs marked "1/2" in the holes where the stub shafts would press in.
 
Tedd, I did the same thing with a 149 frame a few years ago. If you use the back of the red frame, you'll only have one welded seam instead of two. Just a thought.
 
Tedd-
Just one! It's a Cannon PowerShot A60. It has a closeup setting that goes down to an inch or two.
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, (OK, that's a bad focus)

It's only a 2.0 megapixel camera, but for emailing pictures, posting on here, pictures on Ebay, it's not worth the extra $$ for higher resoluton, especially with only a dialup connection. It will take movies though, I took the one of me plowing this winter with with this camera.
 
Wyatt,
I went with a Sony of my owny.
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It is a Mavica FD-200 2.0 mega pixels with silent mpgs. It has a close up setting too. I like the floppy disk, but it has a slot for memory stick.

Travis,
I need the extra length at the rear so the hitch is not buried between the second set of rear tires.

o OO is the wheel arangement.

(Message edited by till on February 28, 2004)
 
Hi Mike!
You're right- Darned near every pump I've come across was not intended for side-loading... even the ones that some places sell as 'clutch pumps'. Typically, they'll survive okay with a slight overhanging (side)load, but it's a function of how much belt tension, and how far out the load-center is located.

If the belt's centerline is 3" out from the face of the pump, it doesn't take much to trash that pump. In many belt-driven applications, the centerline is moved to a space INSIDE of the pump's bearings... consider the neck of an automotive water-pump, and the sheave that's offset from the flange.

In this case, you're right- I may find that the Sundstrand dies an early death from side-loading. Since it's not some kind of 'production' work, I'm not burning up neurons to determine an MBTF figure on this arrangement- My plan is simply to minimize overhung load in both belt-tension and load-center... the solution is somewhat expensive, but way-cool (Keith- "Manly") toothed-belt drive.

In my railroad training classes, I introduce my students to the mathematics of tractive-effort. In short, it's a concept where the amount of drive force is a function of downward-pressure and coefficient of friction. The "V" belt drive most everyone uses relies on tension to help improve tractive effort. Toothed-belt drive doesn't rely on friction-pressure, hence, allows much more power capacity with essentially no belt tension, which is what we want. Furthermore, most high-load V-belt scenarios increase power-handling capability by increasing surface area... they add a second (or third) V-belt. That 2nd and 3rd V-belt have to go somewhere, which means out-farther-on-the-pulley, which means overhanging load goes way-high. Again, toothed-belt wins.
There won't be a 'no tension' condition, of course- the fact that the engine's pulling on one side of the belt will yield some overhanging load. The nice thing is, one way to cancel the power-transmission's overhanging load is by increasing the pulley diameter on both ends... like... running a 30-60 combination instead of a 20-40. This increases belt speed, but decrases belt force... it also increases the amount of teeth in contact with the pulley ('wrap'), which results in higher power-capacity and less wear.

The belt I'll be using is an 8mm pitch, and with the sheave combinations I'll use, should yield about 150lbs of linear pull, about 18mm outset from the face of the pump if the pump is using ALL of the K's 12 horsepower. Frankly, I don't expect the load to ever become more than about 4hp. If I'm lifting a 1000lb load 6' straight up in 10 seconds, that's the equivalent load of 30,000 ft/lbs per minute... calculates out to 0.9hp... so if I'm off by an order-of-magnituted, I'm guessing I'll still be okay...

But we'll see. If she comes apart, I'll take pictures and post 'em! :-D
 
Does anyone know what part numbers would be involved to install a 42 inch cast iron deck from a narrow frame onto a 129 wide frame tractor? My 42 inch deck also had those little lift eyes to carry the front of the deck. Would like to use a wide frame undercarriage and get rid of those front lift eyes. Would also like to know what drive belt number to use. Jim Bute
 
When I tried to start my 149 to put it back in the Garage this afternoon it acted like a car that is in gear when I tried to start it. I don't see this problem addressed it the FAQ's or I am not smart enough to pick it out. Please advise, It will get cold tonight down here in Tennessee and my Cub is used to sleeping inside.


Thanks, Herb
 
Cubs are amazing animals, The crisis is over. When he thought I was going to leave him outside overnight he fired his own self up and went in the Garage.I still don't know why it seemed like it was in gear when I tried to start it though.
 
Tedd-
I had a sony Mavica, it was a POS. It ate a disk and then when Best Buy got it out for me, they informed me that it was stuck because a part inside broke, it was a non-serviceable part in the $150 disc drive. I said screw it, got the Cannon for $200.
 
Stopped by a dealer today, found an old restoration, a W-9, this decal was on the fender, thought it was funny considering what's typically the exact opposite of what usually happens.
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Also found a 1486MFWD, I thought this was an Elwood conversion, but the outboard planetaries said Spicer. Denny?
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Wyatt:

Like the picture of my tractor. Not the IH, the MF 1135. I wish my looked as good as that one.

Took apart another K321 today and found another rod in backwards.
 
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