Archive through February 27, 2004

[digger]

Paul D.
1250's have manual lifts unless someone added it to your tractor. If you want a pic of a 1450 or 1650, we can fix you up with that.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave K2, excellent photos and write up!!! Keep 'em coming please!

Paul D., 1250 hydraulics.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, hydraulic lift was an option on the 1250.

 

[hmgould]

Hydro leak,
How much is to much? I am loosing about 1 teaspoon a day sitting still. Should I park it untill I get it repaired? How will I know if the Fluid gets to low while I am using the machine and is it to late to repair then? It looks like the leak is around the body of the Pump, perhaps an "O" ring, Is this a big deal?
Thanks guy,
Herb

 

[digger]

Cool,
I learn somethiun new everyday, thanks Kraig
I had no idea. ;-)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Herbert, there isn't an O ring between the hydro and the rear end just a cork gasket. You can easily check the level of the Hy-Tran by removing the plug in the rear plate on your 149. The fluid should be up to the bottom of the plug.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Herbert, they all leak eventually, it's not too big of a deal unless it get to be too messy or if the Hy-Tran level gets too low. It couldn't hurt to check to see if the bolts holding the hydro to the rear end are properly tightened (torque to 30ft.lbs.).

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, )

 

[aaytay]

Herbert-
The cub hydro's hold 7qts of Hytran if I remember correctly. Loosing a tsp a day isn't too bad as it would take a long time for your Hytran to fall to dangerous levels. The nice thing about that "usual suspect" type of leak is that it won't suddenly pop the gasket out and spray all of the Hytran out in one shot.

The worst part about it is that over time the Hydro pump will continue to get gunked up with debris which retains heat.

I agree with Kraig, check the torque on the bolts if you don't have time/want to fix it correctly right now.

 

[bmcmeen]

I agree - check those bolts!

It seems that I never had a leak until after I installed a tiller belt guard. After that, all Hy-Tran broke loose. Now I'm constantly checking those things...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Finally! )

Art wrote:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

I agree with Kraig<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wow, Bryan too!!! )

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Since yer on a roll, you got any info or pic of a 1250 with an electric lift on it?

 

[hmgould]

Hydro leak source, I found it using the Footpowder method. According to my parts list it is leaking around the Front Gasket part # 721-3004. I have had trouble with this parts list before but it appears to be leaking from around the Gasket that is between the Transmission assy (part# 7173033)and the Case assy (part# IH 394081-R91). Is this a major repair or can a beginner try it with some percentage of success?
If I understand you guys the leak is not serious, just watch the fluid level.

Thanks again, I am getting hooked. I have located a gear drive and may bring it home. I just need something on the guy that owns it.
Herb

 

[wcompton]

Herb-
I've run my 169 around unknowingly low on fluid by about 3 quarts, didn't notice the differnce, didn't hurt a thing. If you've got a place to park it that you're content with a little leakage vs. changing the gasket then you'll be just fine. Changing the gasket isn't that hard, pop the battery out, pull the fenders off, unhook the driveshaft, disconnect the brake lever, unblot the tranny, drain it, and pull the hydro pump off. If you're taking your time it might take a few hours to do it.

 

[sblunier]

You really don't even need to take the fenders off.......and it will take longer to clean it up/install the new gasket, than it will to split and recouple the tractor.

BTDT...got a whole drawer full of t-shirts....

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - I'm starting a New Topic Here.... I'm agreeing with STEVE. (hehehe) Leave the seat & fenders on, A Wide Frame has Plenty of room to pull the hydro unit, spray it down good with GUNK Degreaser & clean it up. Just pull the center frame cover and Your Good to Go. I did My 129 and replaced the frt axle pivot pin in a short afternoon. Only a "6-Pack Job" Anyone ever try My idea of a neoprene or Viton gasket have anything to report? I thought someone said they made a couple and installed them.

 

[aaytay]

Ryan Mull-
Should we tell them how much Hytran went into your Plow tractor the night before last year's Spring Break??? <font size="-2">Oh wait, that was a gear-drive</font>

Denny-
I think that was Richard C. who did those rubber gaskets..

 

[dkamp]

Hey Keith!

Since I'll be running power-steering off the hydraulic pump's 'priority' port, I won't be switching this pump off! :-}

The drive belt will most likely be a toothed-belt arrangement (like timing belts and harleys). My initial plan is to use a 30t (3" diam) engine sprocket and a 56t (5.6" diam)sprocket, and an 8mm-pitch 20mm wide belt, if I can find the right length, a suitable belt tensioner and deflection sheave. If not, I'll hafta go with larger sprockets on both ends... like a 32x64 combination with an 880mm belt. I'd prefer the deflection sheave, because it'd allow easy on-off replacement, no fiddling with the pump mount, and allow more tooth-contact ('wrap') on both drive-and-driven, with less sprocket diameter.

So, there won't be a clutch function for the hydraulic pump. The mounting plate, however, will only be 1/4" thick, and I'm contemplating the possibility of mounting the clutch AHEAD of the sprocket, perhaps to find an auxiliary function... not a high priority, but I'm always considering possbilities!

...But if you'd like your clutch back, you're welcome to it- it's served me well as a sizing pattern, and I don't need a 'working' clutch to get hole locations and sizes.

 

[wcompton]

Dave-
Pretty wide selection of toothed belt drives available for dry-sump type oil pump drives. Should be a circle track supply place in your area, if not www.pegasusautoracing.com I'd think would be able to get them, I know they have all sorts of stuff to do the pump drives on open wheel cars.