Archive through February 27, 2004

[sblunier]

Denny,

I won't go that far.....I still split the tractor (pull the transaxle), but I don't remove the fenders to do it.

Working on a hydro with the transaxle in the machine is more trouble than it's worth IMHO. You can do a much better job with the transaxle rolled up on it's tail and the hydro staring you in the face.......it's a bad gasket anyway, why make it worse with obstructions to work around and a 1/2 clean work area.

 

[aaytay]

After doing the hydro gasket on my 1450 through the tunnel cover, I'll split the tractor next time.

My 1450 was an earlier model which has a short, square bracket for the brake-pedal-return-spring. This bracket has very sharp corners and I tore the heck out of the back of my hand trying to get that hydro pump back in without disturbing the gasket in the process. <font size="-2">Later QL's have the spring bracket in a different location IIRC...</font>

My vote is with Steve to split the tractor if you have to do this kind of work. <font size="-2">Hopefully the devil's house won't freeze over again just because I agreed with someone else!..</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, you mean like this parts drawing/list for a 1250 electric lift?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, yes Richird C., did do a gasket out of neoprene or some other material. I'll see if I can find the photos/info.

Then there is this:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted by Bryon Henningsen on Friday March 28th, 2003

Gehl gasket #061854 is for a Model 2500 Skid Loader. Approx 3/16" thick. Worked on my 149 about 3 years ago without any modification. i.e., Gehl used same hydro on this loader.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[digger]

Did a little playin this morning with the new 169 and the Snowco Buggy top, Looks kinda neat if I do say!

 

[dkirk]

Art,

You just need to round off those sharp bracket corners with a file first. I still prefer not to split but work through the tunnel cover, and underneath the tractor. The more of these you do, the faster and easier it gets.

 

[hmgould]

Wyatt, I am unable to locate the bolts holding the Transmission assembly to the Case. I thought I might try tightening them but where are they?

 

[bgolden]

Thanks for all the help locating parts for the hydraulic lift. I finally scraped enought paint off to read the label, it reads as follows: "Hdra-Unit Model No. 15A74, Serial No. 49008. Fill Reserve 2/3 Full, Use Best Quality 10W SAE Oil".
Since the unit is over 30 years old is there something better to use than the 10W oil?
Bill

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Do you remember if that Gehl gasket is made of rubber or cork?

 

[kmcconaughey]

No

 

[sblunier]

Bill G.

Hy-Tran......it's hydraulic oil designed specifically for that type of application.

Hydro Repair:

My biggest hang-up with in the tractor/thru the tunnel cover is the fact that you can't get it cleaned up very well.....bad news for keeping the hydro internals clean and for installing an already leak-prone gasket. Shoot, you can have a transaxle out in about the same time it takes to get the driveline out of the way and/or pull the fenders.

 

[kmcconaughey]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Richard Christensen, Arizona is Hot but its a Dry Heat (Rchristensen) on Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 10:37 pm:

I know we have discussed the cork gasket on the hydro's here many times but I still don't like them so today I bought some 1/16 inch Neopreme gasket material and made a gasket using a new cork gasket for a pattern. You need to cut the inside the same diameter as the cork one but you can make the outside approximtely 1/8 inch larger. This gives you more surface area and you don't have the weak spots where the three unused holes are in the cork gasket.

(See first photo below)

Neopreme gasket laying on the case.

(See next photo below)

Neopreme gasket on the hydro.

(See last photo below)

The 1/16 inch thickness seems to be the right size when you tighten it down. Feels solid but not like you are squashing the rubber too much. If it holds when I put it all back together I will let you know and give a report every 10 years.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

I just reread Richard's write up, I see he referred to the 3 holes as "unused"......

Richard, you might want to take that Cub back apart and put those holes in, they are for the Hy-Tran to return to the rear end!!!!!

 

[rchristensen]

My thoughts on replacing the cork gasket, I don't care to lay under a cub because I'm 60 years old. Here is the way I do it.

1. Remove the battery, two bolts and tie down if you have one.
2. Remove the seat, two bolts on one side.
3 Remove the 4 bolts in battery box.
4. Remove the foot pads, 8 screws.
5. Remove the lift height adjustment knob.
6. Disconnect rear lights if you have them.
7. Remove the transmission cover, 4 screws.
8. Remove the fenders.

This doesn't take long and then you can do a thorough cleaning on the underside of the fenders and the entire rear end.

Pull the rear gasket, drain the hydro fluid and clean the inside of the rear end. Make sure to blow through the breather top back of the rear end to insure it is not blocked.

Disconnect the rag joint, clutch return spring, hydro controls, then remove the bolts holding the rear end and hydro.

Take the hydro and rear end out and tip on its back, remove the hydro, and replace gasket.

I make my gaskets out of Neopreme using a cork gasket for a pattern. I get the Neopreme from an auto parts store near me. I use the 1/16 th inch and have never had any problems with leaking. I have had pieces of Neopreme soaking in hydro fluid for over a year to see if there were any problems and have not seen any swelling or ill affects.

This is a good time to replace Rag joints and the busings front and rear if your particular cub has them.

Reweld the trunion bracket if there is wear and return it to its original size. Lay the side bracket over the trunion bracket and the area where the springs go should be identical when you are done. I always replace the tips that the springs go into. Springs are usually good.

Replace the hydro and rear end. Install new rear gasket, filter and hydro fluid. With the rear end up on jack stands make the hydro control adjustment per the manual. Use caution not to get hurt while performing this function.

I have been painting my foot pads with the truck bed liner that you can get at Wal Mart and really like the results. Gives a nice appearance and not slippery.

Not saying this is the only way to do it but it works for me. Not inteded to replace the instructions in your manual.

 

[wcompton]

Herb-
If you look at the second picture in the 11:22 post, you'll note 4 bosses on the transmission.

Tightening the bolts won't help a leak, at least isn't likey to. Machining tolerances set the gasket's compression. If it was in fact loose that could have been the root of the problem, but tightening them won't be the cure.

-

I believe it was Steve that said it once, and I might echo the same statement that the gasket material and thickness has specific properties in absorbing vibration/movement and compression, as well as any shrink/swell properties with chemical contact. While changing the material might yield good results for an extended amount of time, use caution; a change in material could result in the amount of designed-in force to retain the gasket. Being an aluminum pump case it can flex, possibly binding up the internals for irregular wear.

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig
The three holes are not there on the later 82 series hydro's which I was refering to when I took those pictures. The earlier cubs do have the three holes. Hope I didn't confuse anybody.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, whew!! How is the Hy-Tran returned on the later models?

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig.

I don't know, maybe you should ask Wyatt, I think he is an engineer. Maybe through the lower bearing?

 

[wcompton]

I'd agree with Richard, looks like his pump's output bearing has an open race. I would think his pump is a superior design since it would be both lubricating & cooling the bearing and lubing the gear mesh.

 

[pdorow]

Kraig;

Thanks a bunch for the info.