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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Darren,

the coil could overheat and act like you outlined. The Ignitions runs through the PTO switch, and they are notorious for failing... I guess I'd take a lookey-see at the switch first to see if you can see any signs of heat..
 
Harry, I found the snubber info. and I've got plenty of those shims. My old ones had 6 under each side. The PO used the automotive type ISO mounts and I think those are taller than the original type I bought CC Spec.

Thank you Brian and Harry, Glad I'm not trying to do this on my own.
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DON T. - You just experienced the comment a wise old mechanic taught me decades ago, "If it acts like a carburetor problem it's probably ignition, if it acts like an ignition problem, it's probably the carb!". That 125 sounds like it runs pretty good!
 
ok thanks guys so if the pto doesnt look like it got hot it should be good then ill taje a pook at that first then heading out there now
 
Tom, Steve, I'm not even in this deal and I was brought in on it. Streamwood has some tractors, they are spread between two sheds and two garages. Was talking to Steve the other night, I told him I have to thin the heard a little bit before spring. I loose one garage in May.
 
Bubba,
"I told him I have to thin the heard a little bit before spring." Spring is right around the corner. I guess we need to talk. :cool:
 
ok the pto swiched looked nice and shiny didnt apear to get hot wires all look good it doest smell burt so i swaped out a coil and condenser of a running tractor and no change it will roll ovver twice and fire up for a second and die. it dont change if i play with the choke. i put the coil and coondencer that i took off on another tractor and it fires right up. so im thinking thosee are good. i put some gas in the carb and i get the same thing a 1 second run is it safe to say something went bad in the pto switch?? im stumped and its snowing like crazy here
 
Darren Sterley
Just a thought ; if ignition power runs through the PTO switch . I see someone posted then why not jump ignition power past the PTO switch.If the PTO was the problem then by jumping power the switch will have no affect .
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If the PTO switch or the PTO itself has a short it might draw so much power that it will rob power to the ignition causing the tractor to stop.
 
Dennis Frisk

headed out to my shop now to clean another Carb for the 125. The 129 needs it`s carb back.I will say the 125 engine runs nice and sound "sweet" if you know what I mean.Some engines you can tell by the sound they make when they run that they are a worker.I have big hopes for this 125 as my grass cutting tractor for my lawn.I have a 10 hp cub engine here that I got from Frank C and I can say that 10 runs great also and seems to have more power than it should for a 10 hp.

I think I will have to talk to Frank up there in Maine and see if he will send me over an empty container of the Carb cleaner so I can have the parts basket and can.He can have the Gunk cleaner if he wants it and I will pay him for it.
 
just tried jumping the pto switch and it lives thank you all this site is great
 
Don T - you know I hate to burst your bubble. I know what you mean when you say
"engine runs nice and sound "sweet" if you know what I mean"
BUT it's because of the muffler!!!
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Darren S - glad you figured out the problem being the PTO switch. I had a little problem with your comment "it lives". If you look at my signature line you'll see "Old Cubs Never Die". Yours was just resting, and some rest longer than others.
 
Ok I want to just clean another carb , I have a kit here that is marked KOHLER/25 757 01-S . That according to Charlie is for a 10 hp Cub What would be the difference between that kit and the on that covers the 12 hp.?? I see the kit has a new float needle and seat and the pin for the float and some gaskets. I think only the size of the idle jet and the high speed jet would make a carb a 10 hp carb or a 12 hp carb. Please explain the difference .
 
Just answered my own question. The float shut off needle seat IS longer and won`t fit on my 12 hp carb.
 
Don T - I believe the Kohler Kit No. 25 757 01-S is correct for your 12hp. The 14hp and 16hp engines with the No. 30 carb get kit no. 25 757 02-S, which has a different tip on the inside base of the seat. Actually it seems both "supposedly" work so I don't know why Kohler makes them different. You should be fine using the 01-S in your 12hp No. 26 carb.
 
Harry Bursell

Seems like all my spare carbs are junk.I think I will see if I can buy another Carb.

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I am not surprised to read about the carburetor problems that go around. From what I hear and read, carburetor problems are common and occur mostly from the gasoline that is available today. A used carburetor that is shared between tractors, or purchased from another supplier probably is suffering from bad gas syndrome. It happens all the time in the area where I live, because of the winter and summer blends of gasoline, the common use of ethanol in quantities of up to 10%, and the additives placed in it, gasoline becomes a corrosive and sticky enemy to a small engine's fuel system. This is why metal gas tanks get rusty from the inside, all gas tanks get junky, filters and screens plug up, gas hoses rot prematurely and carburetors need cleaning periodically.

We have to remember that all the narrow frame Cub Cadets and most of the wide frame models were built in the era of leaded gasoline. Lead was, in a way, its own fuel stabilizer. It's no wonder that StaBil, MMO, Sea Foam, and many other fuel stabilizers are on the market, and sell well.

I have never had a carburetor problem with my small engines when stabilizers are added to the gas. It will be interesting to see how the 1250 starts this spring, after sitting all winter in an unheated garage, with a bit of treated gas in the tank and a drained carburetor. My luck, I have to be in for something.
 
Catching-up a bit here...

Don T - nice job sticking with the 125 engine and getting it figured out

Keith O - you are moving at warp speed compared to my 1650 effort !

Ron S - impressive snow plowing
 
Donald T. I've seen worse carburetors. If you really can't find the GUNK or other brands of carburetor cleaner you can always use white vinegar to clean your carburetor. It just takes a day longer i.e. not just eight hours or overnight but try 24 hours. And then rinse thoruoghly with warm water and dry with an air gun. DO NOT forget any pieces or the vinegar will dissolve them. I used to use it a lot until I finally had the funds to buy a gallon of cleaner.
 

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