Archive through February 22, 2012

[tzingleman]

Wow, thanks for all of the advice, guys. I now know to give it about a day before I make a move on a risky procedure.

I tried backing the t-handle and the nut all the way out. It was very loose, but it didn't want to come out of the hole. I bought an O-ring set and was expecting to just be able to slide a new one on the t-handle at a recessed point.

I removed the sediment bowl hoping to be able to access the inside part of the t-handle from underneath. I scraped the seals out of the bottom of the metal of the top of the sediment bowl and discovered I couldn't access anything that way. I will post a link to a pic of the part below in case anyone comes along later with the same problem.

At this point, I hadn't read the posts about using string to reseal the valve, so I hit the threads with PB Blaster and the assembly came right off with very little force.

I just ordered a new sediment bowl from one of the sponsors, It doesn't seem like it will be that hard to put the new one on.

 

[elincoln]

I got the 1970 127 running this morning, I let it run about 30 minutes. It has a slight knock and the generator started to smoke and got hot, must have gotten alot of water in it over the years
I went down to the neighbors, he has 2 cubs neither has beeen run in a very long time. 1 is a 122 sn 178146 with a hyd lift. 2 is a 129 and it has a roto tiller drive covering the sn.

 

[dtanner]

Tim Zingleman

the nut(or what is left of it)inside of the tee handle is what needs to be backed off. then pull out the shaft and fit the PN/ IH-144526-H1 - KH-220547-S Charlie sells for $2.00 and be done. Or buy anther Whole unit.I think he sells the cork gasket for the bowl also.I like to add O rings because I use them more then once.I think I will use a shut off valve like my 149 has and add a filter to sve me cleaning cabs so much because my Cubs sit so much. Just Waite till you get a few and well they all have a chore to do just not often enuf lol.

 

[mfrade]

Denny "Yep, I never met Jim Chabot but I always enjoyed his posts here on the forum. He was ALWAYS up to something interesting with his Cubbies."

Yes! He was like the Chestnut family, definately put the FAN in Fanatic! LOL! And all great people!

I don't remember the size o-ring but I took the needle valve and filter bowl setup with me and found 3 same size that threaded onto the valve and into the body. tighten the packing gland as usual, works good!

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - I was a little concerned when I made the earlier comment "I don't care what the manual says". That was specific to where you were installing the basket pulley only. I follow the manual for most everything, but a few things do require adjusting. So, all in all, I'm glad you are reading the manual. Now, in the pic you just posted - it looks like you ran out of paint. How come I still see primer? And those wires go under the battery box except for the 2 going to the battery. (I just don't want to see your hood cutting or fraying the wires)

Tim ZZZZZ - I hope you ordered the assembly and not just the fuel bowl.

Edward L - glad to hear you got the 127 running. To bad about the slight knock. Sounds like you need to pull the pan and mic the rod and crank. There are some things other people do to the rod cap that I wouldn't really recommend, and some even just change out the rod. You'll probably find the rod and the crank both outside tolerance so the engine needs an overhaul. The S/G can probably be taken apart and cleaned up, replace the bearing on one end, and make sure the bushing and oil wick on the other end is still good. I'd probably do this to the S/G right away before you run the engine anymore and burn something out. What's your intention with this tractor? Show or Work?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[elincoln]

Harry; I,m 71 and enjoy having stuff to work on. I only go to two tractor shows. Wilcox down on the farm , near Yelm and Cowlitz Prarie Grange down by Toledo.
The 172 will get tossed in this 1 piece at a time. I have a ingersol 175 cfm compressor.

 

[rbeem]

'Cause everybody loves Pics.

The beginnings of my loader project. Pretty ruff Johnson loader....which mostly looks worse the more I take it apart. front cylinders shot,lines,shot,front 12" of loader arms,shot.
Good news, Kwik-Way has replacement buckets for $210, even with shipping I could not get one done locally for close to that!
(backgound,tiny little bundle of steel on floor $110....jeesh that went up!)

Pictured is my 1000, but I'm leaning towards using my 108 now. Mostly because it's a mutant already with its 14hp and other mods. I'm doing the super steer axle mod. and three turn steering box, so it makes more sense to continue altering one machine verses the fleet. I could always make it a Hydro down the road.
I have the late model 1650, which might be a good canidate, but it's too nice and handy with the hyd lift to tie it up with the loader.

 

[hydroharry]

Edward - I ain't 71 but I'm catching up to ya. Sounds like your really gonna tear that 127 down. Glad to hear that. Now I know why you picked up a gal. of that Federal Yellow. It'll be a sharp unit when you put it back together. Maybe I'll get a chance to stop down your way and see it before it's all in pieces. I'd like to get an idea of the condition of everything. Are you a member of the NW IH Collectors Chapter #30?

Rick B - what took you so long to post those pics. 2 of them are from 3 days ago. We like current stuff on here. And another thing, I certainly wouldn't hook that bucket up to the 1000. In case you didn't notice there ain't no engine in it!!!

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

I case you don`t know, those two wires would be used if I was not to use the amp gauge. In the manual if the gauge is not used. I have to tie them up some where. I see you don`t miss much . The primer won`t be seen after the battery is installed and the hood is down lol.

Dave , Allen

I gave you the part numbers , have a look and all will be clear.

Charlie tells me the two Starter - gens I posted that one of them is for a narrow frame and one is for a wide frame. That `s fine but I still like the better bearing in the rear of the starter - generator !

Edward H Lincoln

I could be wrong but your post of the sand blast cabinet shows a belt drive rear end, correct ? not the same as all my Cubs but great that you care to restore a tractor

Rick beem

I see your having way to much fun ! I promised myself I would never add up all the $$$ I have put into my 129 loader. But I can say I do take some of what it cost away every time I get to work it and have a ball doing that chore. I will be installing power steering on my loader soon as snail mail arrives. I will enjoy power steering with a bucket full of dirt.said and done will be $272.00 parts and shipping and I have to have some supply and return lines fabbed yet for the steering box.I`am happy that I have a ported pump here to add to the 129 to supply fluid to the steering. That will give me a day to replace and add lines and get the loader running again. I must be crazy because I see some guys say they bought tractors for less than a few of my Mods .

 

[rbeem]

Harry,
Something had to go, those loaders are heavy!

Reminder...turn off time stamp on camera.

 

[dtanner]

Harry B
(Rick B - what took you so long to post those pics. 2 of them are from 3 days ago. We like current stuff on here. And another thing, I certainly wouldn't hook that bucket up to the 1000. In case you didn't notice there ain't no engine in it!!! )

It does have a stick

 

[dtanner]

Rick beem

I hope you have plans for a lot of weight on the back of your loader! I have 2 75 lbs and 2 IH 25 lbs wheel weights and loaded chloride filled rear tires and another 175 lbs in the rear weight box. The support for the weight box must weight about 25 lbs .big weight on the back of the cub will be your friend when you start to move around with a bucket full.

 

[tzingleman]

Harry,

I hope it's more than just a glass bowl... it was $15.

I bought my '68 124 from my dad for hauling stuff around the yard in the trailer. I didn't want to put too much wear and tear on my Snapper lawnmower.

I'd post some pics, but she's not pretty. Once I get it mechanically sound, I'll work on the aesthetics. The wiring is a mess,and it's leaking gas, but it ran strong.

I didn't intend on loving the IH, but it's so ugly sitting in the driveway that I kind of fell in love with it and I feel like it deserves to be taken care of.

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - not sure I saw anyone respond to your question about whether an axle from a 1210 would work on a 1650. Since this Forum is mostly restricted to IH and the 1210 is a CCC there are probably are just a few people that can really answer your question. It does seem to me that if the axle would work on a 782 that it should work on a 1650 but I just can't say. What I will mention is that the late production 1650's (and other Quiet Line tractors) came standard with 1" spindles and wheels with 1" bearings. I don't know why you might want to change the axle but you may be able to change just the spindles and bearings if you think you need to beef up your front end for some reason. I for one don't think it's necessary to have the 1" bearings. The 3/4" hold up quite well on all the other units (except with a bucket loader). The late production Quiet Line tractors also had a lower grill housing made of aluminum instead of cast iron. (The upper housing where the lights are has always been aluminum). If you don't already have the lower aluminum version and want to lighten your front end by 40# you can find a used one fairly easy.

Don T - I don't think all that primer will be covered by the battery. Better get out a rattle can and some newspaper for shielding. Hey, and besides the 2 wires hanging over the side of the battery box, which you say have to be tied off, I see another wire on the (tractor) left side of the steering column. It seems to have a piece of masking tape with the letter "c" written on it. Is that the way you give "Charlie" a buzzz???

Tim Z Z Z Z Z Z - Pictures! Pictures! Pictures!
We gotta have some pictures. We gotta see it before you do anything else!!!
None of us on here "intended to fall in love".
Some of us did have hazzy eyes when we 1st saw them in the rough.
Many of us became addicted to the aroma of the Kohler fumes.
AND All of us have "Yeller and White Feveeeer".
It's not real clear when it strikes you.
Some get it within 24hours of exposure.
Some takes a few days or even a week.
Those of us that have attended a JD GREENE Bonfire know there's no way to shake the fever.
It will subside on ocassion, but rarely. If it does something tweeks it and it comes back with vengence.
FEE-VER, FEE-VER, FEE-VER!!!!
We Got The FEE-VER.
Post some pics so we can see your sweetheart in the rough!!!

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[mgonitzke]

Bill J.-

Yes, it will fit.

 

[dfrisk]

TIM Z. - I agree with HARRY, go ahead & post some pic's. Some of US here, namely Kraig & I like pic's of the double Zig-Zag grill tractors!

I predict once you get your Dad's old 124 running good you'll mow with it. I've heard good things about Snapper mowers from old co-workers, but the 124 will be more fun and less work. And in 20+ yrs you'll still not wear it out!

EDWARD L. - I have air compressor ENVY, 175 CFM I-R! WOW. I thought my 25-26 CFM Porter-Cable was big. I looked at a comparable 7-1/2 HP 80 gal I-R when I went to buy my compressor. The local Big Box store had a floor display model that had been there for well over a year, almost two yrs, they wouldn't cut me a deal on it like they had on my Kobalt SS top chest tool box the year before. The Store Mgr. said they had to get the posted price. So I walked out and went to my local Blains Farm & Fleet and loaded up my new P-C compressor. An hour after we walked out of the big box store SON & I were setting up my new compressor. Been a very valuable addition to my shop. Since it's a 2-stage, up to 165 PSI I have more pressure and enough volume to sand blast effectively. Painting & running air tools is No Problem now. Just wish I had room for a large blast cabinent in my shop, something big enough to hold a whole frame from a Cub Cadet, plan was to build my own, blast media costs too much to only use once. But back when I was planning that I didn't have two large FARMALL's, just one. But I couldn't let Dad's old '51 M he had since new get away. I was about 4-5 yrs old when I remember running it standing between Dad & the steering wheel.

 

[bjamison]

Thanks Matt & Harry. The axle/spindle combo got sold, so that mod is out of consideration. I also don't know why you'd need 1 inch spindles unless you have a loader or you just want to be over kill on your Cub

Bill

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - I agree on the 1" spindles being more than most CC's will ever need. I think my #72 was rolled before I got it, the left spindle was bent, but I got a New One and replaced it.

The CC 70 Dad bought in '65 has survived nicely on 3/4" spindles, but then about all it's ever done was mow, until I got it, it never even got run in winter with a snow blade.

As I said a few days ago, the real weak spot on a WF isn't the wheels or hubs, it's where the 1" spindle is welded to the "C" shaped steel piece that pivots on the CI frt axle. Not enough weld area between the spindle bar and the plate. I've seen a lot of them break the spindle out of the "C" shaped piece.

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

I don`t think these will break .

 

[thoffman]

Well, we got some snow here in the midwest last night. We got about 8" of heavy wet snow with the temps. in the just below freezing range. (30 as I type).

You may remember last fall I purchased a 800. I wasn't sure about the power of the 8hp. to run the QA36 thrower.

Well I have to tell you the 8 pnoy Kohler did a pretty nice job of "snow tubing" today. (Sorry no pix) The creeper siting in the garage will definitely will be need, but with some clutch slipping I made it through the first pass. Passes after the first shot were made by taking less than a full 36".

Pretty impresse with the little 800 considering that the neighbor snow trhower are in about the same Hp range for walk behinds.

Only problem I had today was breaking the shift linkage. Looks like a shifter cup repair is in order.