Archive through February 22, 2012

[balbrecht]

Tim,
I've found the easiest way to fix leaks with those old sediment bowls is to simply replace the entire assembly and be done with it. Several of the sites listed at the top of the page will sell you a new one for under $15. If you go to a Cub Cadet dealer they will sell you the update which is just an in-line filter with some rubber hose, and I wouldn't waste the money on one of those. The other thing to check for is to look and make sure the spigot coming out of the tank hasn't developed a crack where it is attached to the tank. Over time the vibrations from the engine and the weight of the bowl hanging off the tank can crack that seal and you'll get a slow leak there also. -Brian

 

[balbrecht]

Also Tim,
Seeing that the spigot/bowl connection looks pretty rusty on your machine, I've bought one of the new assemblies in the past and "scavenged" it for parts to replace the valve/gaskets and screen on one that was rusted to a tank. You don't want to break off that connection try to get the old sediment bowl off.

 

[tzingleman]

Thank you, Brian. I was afraid of removing the assembly, considering how the connection looked. I wasn't even sure if that's the way it came... there has been 45 years or opportunity for someone to mess with it.

 

[hydroharry]

Mike F – boy those were the days. Ole KENtuck has apparently gone fish’n. I don’t think he posted in about a year. He was having some eye trouble and may be why. Now Jim Steele, that goes way back. I think he was also in KENtuck’s neck of the woods. I spoke with Jim Chabot a few years ago and things had really changed with him. He had thinned out his herd but had some added that I have to see sometime – maybe you have seen them. My son is still in CT and I get back there once in awhile. One of these times there will have to be a BIG get-together.

Richard L – hope you find this since my post will be long. On squeezing your front axle channel you need to go to the top area of this page and click on the FAQ. That will take you to the Forum FAQ section. The top heading of that says if you don’t find your answer then check Charlie’s FAQ. Click on that FAQ and it will take you to Charlie’s list, and then scroll down to no. 80. If I can post a link here it is. http://cubfaq.com/axlepivot.html This will tell you what you need to do.

Tim W – no question based on your tractor appearance it’s a Quiet Line. The frame is spread (wide) at the front but still tall. Since you had a 782 you know the frame was spread but cut down so your current tractor cannot be a 782 as indicated on the serial tag. The numbers on your tag appear to me to be flattened but not really altered. It just doesn't make sense.

Tim Z Z Z Z Z – way down there in Georgia’. Welcome to the Forum. Brian A has given you some really good advice, and I agree that if you try to remove your fuel bowl assembly from the tank you may cause yourself more problems. Brian’s suggestion of buying a new bowl assembly and then transferring the shutoff, and other parts sounds like the best idea.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[mgonitzke]

I suspect the serial number tag has been changed at some point, and it's no more complex than that. It's really easy to knock those rivets out from the back, replace the tag, and drive them back in. The PO must have been really lazy, as it appears that tag has been sandblasted.

 

[dfrisk]

WELCOME TIM Z. to the best forum on the 'Net. From the looks of your pic, your fuel plumbing system is factory stock. I've never been a fan of sediment bulb fuel filters. Even IH stopped using them on the red tractors, 682/782/982. And in about 1981 when I bought my first CC, a '68 #72 I stopped using them too!

For a few Dollars ($10-$15 last time I bought them) at your local hardware store you can buy a small engine gas tank shut-off valve, 1/8th inch NPT threads w/1/4" male hose barb outlet, maybe a foot of 1/4" gas line, a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" hose barb elbow, a 1/4" in-line disposable gas filter and four small worm gear hose clamps.

Drain your gas tank and remove your sediment bulb from the bottom of the tank, it looks like it should spin right off, and install the valve so the outlet is facing the carb. Install a short length of gas line, 2-3 inches, then attach the filter paying attention to the direction of flow marked on the filter, then install the elbow into the gas inlet on the carb with the hose barb inlet facing UP, then use as much of the remaining hose as needed to connect the filter to the carb inlet elbow, install and tighten the four clamps.

I'd use a bit of thread sealant, either paste or Teflon tape on the threads of the valve & elbow. And snug those fittings down maybe a half to a full turn beyond finger tight. Your gas leak should stop.

Most sediment bulbs use a cork gasket to seal the glass bulb, they dry out, shrink and get hard and leak. The rubber fuel line won't last forever like the metal fuel line does but with $4/gal. gas this summer you can't afford the leaks from the metal fittings.

BEST gas filter I ever had on a CC was one like this, CLICK HERE

I had it on a Spanish OSSA motorcycle with a Japanese Mukuni carb, European motorcycle co's put gas filters on the carb, Japanese motorcycle mfg's put gas filters on the gas tank, so My OSSA didn't have ANY gas filter. The inside sealer on the fiberglass gas tank was flaking off and was constantly plugging the carb jets. I bought a filter like this and that was the end of my carb problems. I gave the bike to my buddy/co-worker but saved the filter. The nylon mesh filter even filters WATER out of the gas. One day while mowing my #72 started sputtering bad, almost died, the filter unscrews apart, I drained the crud out of the filter, reassembled the filter and the CC ran great, the "STUFF" in the clear Pyrex filter tube didn't even smell like gasoline.

Your Cub Cadet won't be "factory original" anymore but it wont leak and you will greatly reduce carb issues so it should always run good.

 

[mfrade]

Paul Bell - Thanks for the photo! That was certainly one of those special days! And it just figures it had to snow! LOL..

Hydro Harry - If you ever get back out this way, then we really need to plan a real get together! It's been far to long! And I haven't seen or heard from Jim Chabot in ages!

 

[dsterley]

thanks guys for the tire information, thats what i was looking for. have agreat day

 

[dtanner]

Out in my shop (Cub Garage) cleaning up wire ends
and found the plug on the new switch was wired wrong when I bought the 125.The better harness I have is the newer type with-out that cloth covering. I will have to rod the switch plug from the older wire set and shrink wrap and solder the wires. Had a look for a starter-gen to use and found two, but I will only use the one with a roller bearing and not the sleeve bearing. I found the sleeve bearing can`t stand much torque and go bad real fast if the starter-gen belt is to tight btdt.I have had these both tested and will use the black one .Might coat all the plugs with no-lox

 

[twarman]

Thanks for the feedback Matt, I do agree with the sandblasting. It appears they did a great job on painting and had disassembled the tractor and no signs of painting over rust. I just don't see why anyone would change a tag and then blast it. Maybe they used a 782 frame for some odd reason and workee their restoration off of it. Evrything about the motor and wiring looks in original style and correct. Oh well, it is kind of neat and I think I will hang on to it and tinker for a while. They said it would't run, but all that was wrong there was a dirty fuel system and it fired right up when I cleaned all of that out.

 

[dfrisk]

MIKE F. - Yep, I never met Jim Chabot but I always enjoyed his posts here on the forum. He was ALWAYS up to something interesting with his Cubbies.

 

[jbaker]

Tim W looks like you have 1200 Quiet Line with a transplanted 14 hp from a 1450 QL, then it also had the ID tag replaced with one from a IH built 782....."its a Frankenline"

 

[bjamison]

Quick question - will a front axle out of a CCC 1210 tractor fit my 1650. The seller says it will fit a 782 - I just don't know enough about these Cubs to make a guess. The axle has 1 inch spindles and wheels.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[rbeem]

"Frankenline" That name is good enough to stick!

 

[thoffman]

Tim Z,
I know your getting all kindz-o-good advice here but try this. First make sure it's leaking though the shut off valve <font size="-2">(the thing with the "T" thumb screw)</font>. Take it out, thread the "T" all the way in. Wrap some thin string or heavy thread around the smooth shaft 5-6 times, and then screw the "T" all the out until it bottoms out hard. This will smash the thread/string into a new seal. If that doesn't work buy a new one.

 

[dtanner]

Tom Hoffman

I think Charlie sells a small piece of hose cut to slip over the plunger end of the shut off valve.I think you remove the tee handle using the nut ,then slid the end of the tee out of the fitting and the fit the hose over it. Put the tee shut off back in and it should not leak (so I`am told). My .02

 

[aschumacher]

Don't I recall someone using tiny 'O' rings with a 1/8th I.D. a while back also??

 

[dross]

Allen, Mabey 2 o-rings then tighten them up. I remember something about it.

 

[hydroharry]

Tim Z - I didn't see the posts awhile back about using O-rings as Allen and/or Dave mentions. When you get the T-handle removed and by itself I believe you will see a recessed area about mid-shaft. This is the area where the string/thread goes that Tom H mentions, or where the O-ring or 2 O-rings go that Allen and Dave mention. Sorry I don't know the size, but basically what occurs here is that the O-ring provides a seal to the shaft as the shaft is moved in or out (as it's being opened or closed). Overtime the original O-ring has failed (40+ years) so the gas is leaking past the area where the O-ring seals the shaft. If this post gets any longer it won't be worth the $12 cost of a new fuel bowl shut-off assembly.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes spring leaks)

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell
I did get something done today, I used a meter and checked every wire and have this 125 ready for the 12 K to run . Kraig said get out a meter , and I did .I just have to Waite for snail mail to get here from Charlie and I will be running. There is a way if you want results that works. Read the manual works.