Archive through February 20, 2012

[rlarsen]

Questions re:Cooling shields etc on a Cub Cadet 105.I have troubles with keeping the debris out of the head area at the back of the engine.Was wondering if it will hurt to remove all the heat shields around the head so hopefully the debris doesn't build up so often causing overheating/head gaskets going bad etc.Tks for any assistance.

 

[dtanner]

I could use a little help here with this wire set for my 125. I wanted to use this wire set because it is in better shape than the set I took off the 125.

My problem is I don`t see any tracer colours to tell me what wire goes where.I would like to install it but I`am lost as to where to start.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, two words: Ohm Meter.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig

Yes I will test each wire and mark them as to where they go. The problem area for me was around the switch . I`ll test and use the diagram to get the 125 working. Thanks Don T

 

[aschumacher]

Don, the length of the wires may give some idea where they might connect to. Looks like 2 heavy wires are there, 1 gonna go solenoid to starter, the other = ?? but shopuld be obvious from the old cable assy.

 

[ljones]

Richard, if you remove the heat shields the cooling air will not be properly directed and you will cause the very problem you are trying to prevent. Is you flywheel grass screen in place?

 

[dpbauer]

Donald-

I'll try that cam cover trick you mentioned. It is looking like I'll get the governor in without pulling the crank... if i slightly bend the metal tab to fit in the gov. hole. Chancey... but we'll see. I still have the oil pan off so I can video how things locate from there.

Also, I am so very irritated that CC PAINTED the damn wiring loom! Makes it near impossible to see whats what. I am installing an aftermarket loom I found on ebay for my 125. It also has the lighting wiring so I should have no problems upgrading my 125 with headlights too. Only cost $40 buck and change, so its worth it to me. I should have no problems with the color code this time!

I'll update on my governor progress when I get back to it. I need to put the gas tank back up in the jeep tonight. danWI

 

[dpbauer]

Richard- Don't remove the heat shields! My cadet guru tells me these shields direct necessary fan cooling air around the cylinder and help wick away the heat! When my 125 was cutting lawn, I would use the compressor to blow cuttings and debris out between the heat shield and cylinder fins. Wasn't too difficult and kept things tidy and running. danWI

 

[rlarsen]

Re:heat shields.To Dan & Lucas,Tks for your input.Good idea using an air compressor to blow out debris and also the screen on flywheel is in place.Received a tip today that is to use a finer screen on the flywheel to catch debris and just brush er off as needed.

 

[fcurrier]

Tom H.: I'm guessing #9 is the lockout pin in question.

 

[thoffman]

Frank C, OK, but why would you need it because the float lock out button is on the lift handle????

 

[jjsmith]

I know im new on here but im with mr. Hoffman on this my 1200 has the lockout rite on the end of the handle and doesnt actually have a float position that im aware of. Buddys 1810 has a true float lockout by index finger

 

[thoffman]

Joe "S",
Welcome!
The 1200 should have the float button on the "index finger" of the pistol grip on the handle, unless it's busted off.

 

[fcurrier]

Hmmmm... 149s use the same mechanism. OK, I think I got it -- it's for the hydro lift, not the manual lift.

 

[thoffman]

Ohhhhhhh wait a minute! What if you have the electric lift option?? That would make sense, BUT I would leave the handle in place in case the electric fails......OH wait another minute WHEN IT FAIL. Those electric lifts sucked.

 

[wcompton]

Nic- you found one!

 

[mgallinaro]

Tom,

If I remember correctly, the float lock pin was an option and only used with the hydraulic lift or electric lift tractors. Also, when we fitted electric lifts on the gear drive tractors we sold, we removed the lift handle and installed the hydraulic lift end so you could use the elevtric lift to work the front blade.

 

[jjsmith]

Ive looked at my 1200 lift handle carefully, even pulled the grip off and theres nothing but solid rod.

 

[thoffman]

Mike and others,
I would agree with you guys on the lockout pin being on electric and hydro systems. Don't know why it's shown as option on a manual lift.

Joe,
Should be a area where the lock button goes on the lift arm. Should be in the index finger area. Something doesn't sound right. Will get some pix in the am.

 

[hydroharry]

Tom H - and other GearHeads with Manual Lift on Quiet Line tractors (and even other wide frames)- I do see page 30 of the QL Operator Manual has a chart listing options, and shows and "X" (meaning it is an option) on the line for the Float Lockout Pins across all the Quiet Line models, including all the gear drive units. This has to be only when a gear drive has an electric lift. The parts list pages for a 1200, in my TC-157 Parts Catalog, only shows the float lockout pin available under the electric lift parts section. It is not shown in the parts list page for the manual lift section. The way the right hand "Lift Arm Assembly" for the manual lift is set up, if you installed a float lockout pin it wouldn't do anything except be attached to the right arm assembly. The right arm assembly on the manual lift tractor does not have a "Clevis Float Assembly". The Clevis Float Assembly is shown as a part only under the electric lift parts section. The Float Lockout Pin locks the Clevis Float Assembly of an electric lift to the right hand arm assembly. Maybe someone can post the parts diagram of the manual lift and the electric lift used on QL Gear Drive tractors so everyone can see the Clevis Float Assembly that is not used on a Manual Lift assembly. I guess IH should have put a footnote * next to the X in the options table to indicate "only with electric lift".

Frank C - the parts diagram you listed is for hydraulic lifts on hydro tractors.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die