-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through February 18, 2005
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Getting chain back on sprockets in the H42 thrower.
Hi -- The last slushy snow caused my chain to jump off the drive sprockets. Chain is fine, but I've just spent about an hour with little wires and long screwdrivers and anything I can find to try to get the chain back on the drive sprocket and the big sprocket around the rotating thrower. I've released the tightening bolt and tilted the gearbox as far forward as it will go, and tried various meanuevers to get the chain to "walk" back up on the gears, all to no (frustrating) avail. Any hints, guys? We're supposed to have 5-7" tonight and I'd like to use my machine!
Hi -- The last slushy snow caused my chain to jump off the drive sprockets. Chain is fine, but I've just spent about an hour with little wires and long screwdrivers and anything I can find to try to get the chain back on the drive sprocket and the big sprocket around the rotating thrower. I've released the tightening bolt and tilted the gearbox as far forward as it will go, and tried various meanuevers to get the chain to "walk" back up on the gears, all to no (frustrating) avail. Any hints, guys? We're supposed to have 5-7" tonight and I'd like to use my machine!
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Dale R. -
The chain should have what's called a "master link" - it lets you "break" the chain so you can take it on and off easily.
Your master link may not be exactly like this, but here's a site with a picture: http://www.msgroup.org/TIP175.html
The chain should have what's called a "master link" - it lets you "break" the chain so you can take it on and off easily.
Your master link may not be exactly like this, but here's a site with a picture: http://www.msgroup.org/TIP175.html
D
darmstrong
Guest
I'll be doing the restore on my 1650 as best I can without getting silly about it, then I'm going to use it for it's intended purpose. Not gonna get carried away with 'historical correctness' like the muscle car guys have. It's at the point now where if you don't have the original factory chalk marks on the rear end the other kids will make fun of you.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Restoration vs refurbish -
As we have generally agreed around here over the years, there's a difference. And we like to keep the terms separate so as not to confuse everyone around here.
So just to keep everyone from getting confused, y'all are REFURBISHING the tractors - cleaning them up and using them, rather than "getting silly" and RESTORING them to as close to original condition as possible, down to every last nut and bolt. It might be silly to some, but to those who have done a restoration, it certainly isn't.
As we have generally agreed around here over the years, there's a difference. And we like to keep the terms separate so as not to confuse everyone around here.
So just to keep everyone from getting confused, y'all are REFURBISHING the tractors - cleaning them up and using them, rather than "getting silly" and RESTORING them to as close to original condition as possible, down to every last nut and bolt. It might be silly to some, but to those who have done a restoration, it certainly isn't.
Chain on thrower
Bryan -- Thanks for the hint. I did find a work around after looking things over a bit. This is a new unit for me, having purchased from my brothers who had it on their farm for 20+ years, so I'm not intimately familiar with it yet (but now I consider I'm on second base).
Anyway what I did was take the top bolt off the tensioner, and loosen the bottom bolt and pivot the drive sprocket out into the open, so to speak. I slipped the chain off the front sprocket on the thrower auger, and this gave me enough room to put the chain over the drive, pivot it back forward, then lift the chain onto the front spocket, all without breaking the chain at a link, readjust tension, and my tension was gone, too.
By the way, is there an "official" recommended chain lubricant? Will snowmobile low temperature grease work OK? Years ago a product called LPS had a #4 that was almost waxy and a very good perservative. I need to get something on my chain. Thinking about it, it probably transmits up to 15 hp through it to the blower when she's really working and lugging down. Hope for good snow to throw tonight! Thanks for the help, and the picture was great.
Dale
Bryan -- Thanks for the hint. I did find a work around after looking things over a bit. This is a new unit for me, having purchased from my brothers who had it on their farm for 20+ years, so I'm not intimately familiar with it yet (but now I consider I'm on second base).
Anyway what I did was take the top bolt off the tensioner, and loosen the bottom bolt and pivot the drive sprocket out into the open, so to speak. I slipped the chain off the front sprocket on the thrower auger, and this gave me enough room to put the chain over the drive, pivot it back forward, then lift the chain onto the front spocket, all without breaking the chain at a link, readjust tension, and my tension was gone, too.
By the way, is there an "official" recommended chain lubricant? Will snowmobile low temperature grease work OK? Years ago a product called LPS had a #4 that was almost waxy and a very good perservative. I need to get something on my chain. Thinking about it, it probably transmits up to 15 hp through it to the blower when she's really working and lugging down. Hope for good snow to throw tonight! Thanks for the help, and the picture was great.
Dale
till
Well-known member
Bryan,
What about a refurbished, restoration????
Or better yet a restored, refurbishment!!
We can not forget the Cub-course de elegance. 100 points or bust!!
What about a refurbished, restoration????
Or better yet a restored, refurbishment!!
We can not forget the Cub-course de elegance. 100 points or bust!!
George Harbaugh, Feb 19
I have been reading your notes, they are interesing. I just built a three foot wheel disc, put hydralic,duals on a 582. Along with twin pipes, sounds great. has a 16twin cyl in it.Have a three pt. to put on it too.
I have been reading your notes, they are interesing. I just built a three foot wheel disc, put hydralic,duals on a 582. Along with twin pipes, sounds great. has a 16twin cyl in it.Have a three pt. to put on it too.
D
darmstrong
Guest
Bryan
Call it whatever you want, but according to my dictionary I'm restoring the 1650:
Main Entry: restore
1. to renew, rebuild
2 to put or bring back into existence or use
3 to bring back to or put back into a former or original state
Main Entry: refurbish
1. to brighten or freshen up
Call it whatever you want, but according to my dictionary I'm restoring the 1650:
Main Entry: restore
1. to renew, rebuild
2 to put or bring back into existence or use
3 to bring back to or put back into a former or original state
Main Entry: refurbish
1. to brighten or freshen up
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Yeah, a real restoration is using enamel tractor paint with runs, overspray, the whole works ;-)
WYATT - The new trailer I looked at this AM was totally Powder-coated too. You probably know the place, How many powder coaters can be in FARLEY, IA.?
TEDD - If You've never done a "U-tube Manometer Engine check" You should. I still have the stuff left I did My first one with 20+/- yrs ago. It confirmed what I already knew.. My little K-181 was REAL tired. TERRY B - I have the oven in My shop all ready to bake powder coat. I've just never needed anything coated bad enough to justify the $100 for the P/C equipment. DALE R. - Chain lube should be rather thin bodied. It has to soak into the chain pretty good to lube the pins & bushings inside the pivots of the links. On an application like a snow thrower/blower repeated applications of a foaming chain lube or light oil with every use is best. Something like WD-40 is way too thin, but better than nothing. Actually chain saw chain oil would be good too since it clings so well. Grease is too heavy. Back in the old days die-hard motorcyclist's used to put their drive chains in pans of oil and heat them to drive the oil into the pins & bushings.
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Denny, just a couple
I slapped new tires on the back of mine. Is that refurbished or restored?
I got the shock of my life today... I never got by storage to put in Stabil or remove the battery. My 86 has sat there since the middle of October untouched and unheated in storage.
I went by today, pulled the choke about a 1/4" and hit the ignition, she fired right up. A little smoke at first but clean after that. Gotta love good engineering!
I got the shock of my life today... I never got by storage to put in Stabil or remove the battery. My 86 has sat there since the middle of October untouched and unheated in storage.
I went by today, pulled the choke about a 1/4" and hit the ignition, she fired right up. A little smoke at first but clean after that. Gotta love good engineering!
Crap, forgot the main question... does anyone (Kraig?) have a shot of how the three point lift bar connects to the bottom of the handle?
Does the bracket with the short shaft face into the handle bracket or away? If away, is there supposed to be a hole in that small rod to hold the lift bar in place with a pin? The drawing in the FM isn't very clear.
Does the bracket with the short shaft face into the handle bracket or away? If away, is there supposed to be a hole in that small rod to hold the lift bar in place with a pin? The drawing in the FM isn't very clear.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Dave A. -
I'm impressed, you have a dictionary, too.
However, there's no need to be a smart ass, you know damn well what we mean here.
If you'd like to carry on offline, I'd be MORE than happy to entertain your argument. But needless to say, it wouldn't matter to either member of the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">Democracy of Two™</FONT>
I'm impressed, you have a dictionary, too.
However, there's no need to be a smart ass, you know damn well what we mean here.
If you'd like to carry on offline, I'd be MORE than happy to entertain your argument. But needless to say, it wouldn't matter to either member of the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">Democracy of Two™</FONT>
