• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through February 04, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
18,334
Location
Wisconsin
displayname
Kraig McConaughey
Jack, here's a link to a page where Steve B. posted his home made dual spool lever setup which might explain how it all works.
 
It sounds like a roller chain is headed my way from Minni. I'll have to get a round trip ticket for it.
Oh, and BTW the cost for a 51 link #40 roller chain is $64.XX. I went to Fam and Fleet for the $12.99 for 12 feet piece.
 
Jack W
On my 1650 with dual hyralics the outer lever controls the angle of the blade this would be part # 18 on charlies diagram. On mine #19 doesn't look anything like in the diagram. It is a round pc with a lever welded to it. The lever shaft runs thru the center of the round. It is connected to the shaft #18 by a roll pin. My roll pin backed out/came out and caused mine to not work. I removed the fuel tank and plate on the back of the dash to get to mine. it was tight but workable. I was told that the early ones had the different style like mine and the latter ones were like in the diagram.
 
Hi everyone,
I have a not starting issue on my 1450. Some background info. I had a pan gasket leak, removed the engine, replaced the gasket and installed the engine back in the tractor.
At this point I adjusted the governor INCORRECTLY. I was able to start the tractor and used it for ONE snow storm. It was then that I realized the governor was set wrong.

I then set the governor according to the service instructions and started the tractor. While performing the work on the tractor I had the heater running (by then about 60 degrees in the shed). The tractor started with no problem and ran fine.

Yesterday after the snow storm I tried to start the tractor (temp now 30 degrees). Initially it tried to start sputtering several times. After that, no sign of trying to fire.

It turns over fine, battery is fine
There is spark, used an inline spark tester
The carb was not changed – however I do see a little weeping of gas after taking the filter off

I did place a meter on the positive of the coil and received 11 volts when cranking the starter. This was also after trying for several minutes.

Right now I am lost. Rich W.
 
Rich W.
There is a thing called the combustion triangle, fuel, air (oxidizer) and an ignition source. We can reasonably assume the air and temperature is not the problem. This leaves fuel and/or an ignition source as the problem(s). Having recently removed the engine may have disturbed debris in the fuel system that is now preventing enough fuel getting to or through the carburetor. Check for good fuel flow from the tank to the carb, this is not likely the problem but good to eliminate. If debris has clogged the carb, then its removal and cleaning is likely needed.
The engines ground may be an issue after engine removal and reinstallation. I always check spark by removing the plug from the head and visually verifying by connecting the wire to the plug, grounding the threaded part and then turning the engine over. Inspecting the plug upon removal can tell me if the engine is getting fuel and/or flooded with too much fuel from excessive choking.
Jim
 
Jim, Good thoughts on the debris. My only comment on debris is I ran the engine for about 15 minutes after re-adjusting the governor last weekend, maybe something settled in the wrong place after running it. I will try (working late tonight) to get a look at the fuel flow to / through the carb. I will also pull the plug to look at the top of the piston to see if it is wet.
In regards to spark, I installed one of those inline tools to show when a spark signal is sent to the plug. It lights up every time it sees a signal. It was lighting up just fine.
Another note, when I had the nose off and battery out I cleaned the ground connections before putting things back together.
Thanks, Rich W.
 
Hi All,
Thought I would post more snow removal pics. I switched out my blade for the CW 36. I am amazed that this "going on 50" tractor does such a great job. Incidentally, I was given the tractor and bought the thrower for 50 bucks. Pictured are my boys having seat time.
283367.jpg

283368.jpg

283369.jpg

283370.jpg
 
Lucas..Nice looking 122! What size blade do you have and do u have QA on it? I have a 122 that i want to try to attach a 54" blade on. I'm not sure if it can be done fairly simple bcuz it came off an 1811 i had so i know the biggest difference is going from wide frame to narrow frame. Saw yours but couldn't tell how you have it attached. TIA for ant info you can provide}}
 
Ron Greenly
Block up the 54" blade and measure from the pivot point down with the blade level.If the blade is set level where it attaches to your blade sub frame the blade will pivot and work correctly. Hope this helps.
 
Ron,

The 42" and 54" blades from IH are identical, except for width. With the correct subframe and lift bracket it should work just great on your 122.

The 1811 used the same wide frame subframe that the xx8/9 through 82 series used. You will need a narrow frame subframe, QA, pin on with straps, or pin on with bolt on mower mule drive....any combo will work.

Don,

The subframes with issues are the ones designed for the later tractors with Super Steer front axles and 30mm rear axle housings. These machines sit a couple inches higher and use a subframe that has longer front QA ears than a standard wide frame subframe to make up the height difference. If this subframe is used on a older wide frame the blade will not sit level and will gouge when angled.
 
STEVE - I had an e-mail conversation several days ago with an old Buddy of yours about how MANY interchangable parts IH used on these CC's over the years. The way you can swap stuff from NF to WF to Red tractors and back. Some of the stuff like the QA-36/42B snow blowers they even Marketed that way.

I was really surprised how well my 42 inch blade worked on the 70. It would clean right down to bare concrete even after I drove over the snow. Seemed like the harder the snow pushed the better it cleaned. The mounting height was really important to get the blade level when angled. The blade I had was the one that bolted onto the ears of the bolt-on mule drive. IH even designed it to clear the idler pulleys!
 
Richard W, try giving a shot of starting fluid in the carb.if it start and dies you know it's not getting fuel. I'm not sure about the spark tester your using, it doesn't take much to light a light compared to to the voltage to jump the gap of a cold spark plug with cold gas. I prefer the spark tester that you can adjust the gap to see how much spark you can get. Also pull the plug, you may have fouled it, try a new one and see what happens.
 
Richard W - not sure how long you've had your tractor but the 1450 (as all Quiet Line tractors) are notorious for not starting when the fuel level in the tank is "low". The fuel line usually makes a somewhat "up-ward" arc and you have to have about an 1/8 tank of gas in order to push the fuel into the carb. Even if you have had this tractor for awhile since you removed and reinstalled the engine you may have disturbed the fuel line routing and now need "just a little more" higher level in your tank than before.
Let us know how you make out.
 
Snow thrower update! Got the gear box pulley lined up with the clutch after I installed longer carriage bolts and installed roughly 5/8 inch worth of spacers. Installed the belt and tightened thing back up just in time to get some clean up work done before this next storm rolls in to town. Everything works great and it really gives that KT some real work. Really need to get that chute cleaned up next but nothing plugged up which kind of surprised me. Can't wait for some fresh snow to go try this thing again.
 
Doug and Richard,
I'd use Carb cleaner instead of either. A LOT less harmful.
 
Tom H. but I like the way the ether smells, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy.

Starting fluid, carb cleaner, brake clean, propane, what ever you've got handy.
 
Doug B - are you saying you can use Brake Cleaner as starting fluid? I never heard of that one and if so I never knew it was that flammable.

As for how they smell, well there's nothing like the Kohler fumes once she's a runnin'. Sometimes I gotta get some seat time just for the smell.
 
Harry B. yup sure can, blue flame and all.

Ray L. nice action shots, I'm sure glad I don't need to own one of those throwers, although if I came across one of fifty bucks I'd have one.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top