Good find Tim!
Did your fever get worse when you got it picked up. If it did you can call the I.H. forum DR.
ROD
Archive through February 04, 2011
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Good find Tim!
Did your fever get worse when you got it picked up. If it did you can call the I.H. forum DR.
ROD
rod, i think that will be it for awhile. in dog house slightly over it but had to have it. crazy thing is a guy up the street has one parted out sitting in the woods but i cannot get in touch with him. like to have it for parts and sell what i dont need
Will - was that the Kwik-way loader from the Columbus craigslist? I just now saw there was one posted on Feb1 but the posting is removed. If so I can't beleive I've been watching for a loader on craigslist - usually search for cub cadet stuff multiple times a day and missed it! You lucky dawg! We were without power for most of the 1st as well as the second so I didnt get online those days!
Richard - thats a better weld then I could ever pull off!
Richard - thats a better weld then I could ever pull off!
Dennis/Willam,
Those buckets with the curves back are called self loading buckets. You'll see them on ALL earthmoving equipment. The curved design is to make the material "roll" as the machine cuts into the material. With the rolling action of the material in front of you, you are not pushing materials several feet in front of you is just rolls and runs off to the side.
As far as sticking to the inside of the bucket, the moisture of the snow/material makes ahuge difference. Just like Charlie said, a graphite or other coating will really help.
Those buckets with the curves back are called self loading buckets. You'll see them on ALL earthmoving equipment. The curved design is to make the material "roll" as the machine cuts into the material. With the rolling action of the material in front of you, you are not pushing materials several feet in front of you is just rolls and runs off to the side.
As far as sticking to the inside of the bucket, the moisture of the snow/material makes ahuge difference. Just like Charlie said, a graphite or other coating will really help.
Tristan,
I saw the loader on the Cincinnati Craigslist. I called about it on Wednesday and left a message. I received a call back on Thursday, and made the trip on Friday to pick it up. So I don't know if it was on Craigslist anywhere else. If I decide to sell it, I will let you have first pickings. That's the best I can do. Still friends? Hope so.
I saw the loader on the Cincinnati Craigslist. I called about it on Wednesday and left a message. I received a call back on Thursday, and made the trip on Friday to pick it up. So I don't know if it was on Craigslist anywhere else. If I decide to sell it, I will let you have first pickings. That's the best I can do. Still friends? Hope so.
I recently purchased a 169. I checked the differential oil. It was extremely low. It seems to be regular car transmission fluid, judging by the red color and odor. Or is HyTran that much similar to regular fluid? Does it need to be drained and the fluid replaced?
Welcome Steve!!
The two fluids look and smell similar but the Hy-tran has superior water encapsulating properties.If you can get it that is what I would use.Also change the filter. The FAQ's have a cross reference if you don't have a dealer locally. Of course the best way to get parts is to use the sponsors at the top of the page.
The two fluids look and smell similar but the Hy-tran has superior water encapsulating properties.If you can get it that is what I would use.Also change the filter. The FAQ's have a cross reference if you don't have a dealer locally. Of course the best way to get parts is to use the sponsors at the top of the page.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Steve,
Welcome to the forum!! I would suggest that you look at the manual section of thew site (below) and look through the 1x9 owners manuals stored there... You'll find out all this type of stuff there, and then some...
You fluid color suggests that someone put in ATF in it at some point. While it'll work, is is not the recommended fluid, which is IH/Case Hy-Tran... A fluid and filter change is always a good place to start on these machines, because then you'll know where your're at... The fluid should be at the level of the fill plug on the rear cover plate... A 169 is a nice tractor... They didn't make many of them, compared to the rest of them...
Welcome to the forum!! I would suggest that you look at the manual section of thew site (below) and look through the 1x9 owners manuals stored there... You'll find out all this type of stuff there, and then some...
You fluid color suggests that someone put in ATF in it at some point. While it'll work, is is not the recommended fluid, which is IH/Case Hy-Tran... A fluid and filter change is always a good place to start on these machines, because then you'll know where your're at... The fluid should be at the level of the fill plug on the rear cover plate... A 169 is a nice tractor... They didn't make many of them, compared to the rest of them...
wmakowicki
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- Wayne Makowicki
How does it happen that when I buy a machine (tractor, mill, lathe or what ever) that needs some work I end up deciding to pull it all apart and get it going good? I don’t go much for the perfect paint or super new look, but I want it to run good and work. That said after getting the 1250 running and drove it a bit I puller it and now have the motor on the bench. So now I can getter a better look at what’s good and bad with tractor. Steering is shot, the lift valve that bolts to it must have put on a side load so the tube to base joint is loose. It looks like I will scrap a 1200 for some parts and sell the rest. (has a 3 speed with creeper if that worth anything) All said this will not be out doing work for a few months.
