-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through December 30, 2013
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Tony H. What is that round thing under your seat?
O* this morning and that is without the wind chill. I'll wait until noon or so before taking the 108 off the Dakota. Plus I need to remove two tires from their rims. I had to wrap Fancy up before we went to get the paper ths morning.
O* this morning and that is without the wind chill. I'll wait until noon or so before taking the 108 off the Dakota. Plus I need to remove two tires from their rims. I had to wrap Fancy up before we went to get the paper ths morning.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
The Round thing. I was thinking it was to make sure his battery terminals don't touch the seat. Yeah, just another throw back from the previous owner. It is, what appears to be a large Boat trailer Roller. He says it made his home grown seat angle better for his back.
I haven't sat on it long enough to draw my own conclusion but it does raise the back up so I can put my Trickle Charger Alligator clips on there without any sparks. So there it stays. At least until I hard wire in a Trickle Charger Plug.
Zero Degress. Brrrrr Here in lower NY (Long Island) it's warm for tis time of year but being an island the air is damp and I bet it feels 15 degrees colder then the drier places. When I go to my property 300 miles inland of me it can be much colder and I feel warmer than here at home. Zero is cold, don't care who you are. Warm up those tires before attempting to take them off teh rims.
After reading what the folks say about weather, it's too bad 'Their location' can't be displayed along with their name. It would help to understand some folks if you can easily see where they are in the USA or abroad.
I haven't sat on it long enough to draw my own conclusion but it does raise the back up so I can put my Trickle Charger Alligator clips on there without any sparks. So there it stays. At least until I hard wire in a Trickle Charger Plug.
Zero Degress. Brrrrr Here in lower NY (Long Island) it's warm for tis time of year but being an island the air is damp and I bet it feels 15 degrees colder then the drier places. When I go to my property 300 miles inland of me it can be much colder and I feel warmer than here at home. Zero is cold, don't care who you are. Warm up those tires before attempting to take them off teh rims.
After reading what the folks say about weather, it's too bad 'Their location' can't be displayed along with their name. It would help to understand some folks if you can easily see where they are in the USA or abroad.
Guys I spoke to a MACHINIST today about making sold brass front wheel bearings for my Cubs. They will slide over the axle and have a collar so they won`t go into the wheel to far( 1.5" wide). I will report back when I get the first set made. The 104 just spit out a bearing and I think I can come up with a better cheaper repair.What you all think ??
Donald,
From the little that I know about metallurgy, it seems to me that brass is softer than steel. Even with varying degrees of hardness in both brass and steel, it stands to reason that brass would still be softer. I fail to see why brass would be a superior metal to use for a wheel bearing, as opposed to hardened steel. Why not use genuine Cub Cadet bearings, not the cheap Chinese items, repack them yearly and be done with it?
It seems to me that if a wheel bearing is packed properly and put together according to specification, that if there continues to be trouble, the problem may be deeper than just the bearing. Perhaps the spindle or wheel hub could be causing the problem.
I don't know much; just my two cents. Good luck with your project.
From the little that I know about metallurgy, it seems to me that brass is softer than steel. Even with varying degrees of hardness in both brass and steel, it stands to reason that brass would still be softer. I fail to see why brass would be a superior metal to use for a wheel bearing, as opposed to hardened steel. Why not use genuine Cub Cadet bearings, not the cheap Chinese items, repack them yearly and be done with it?
It seems to me that if a wheel bearing is packed properly and put together according to specification, that if there continues to be trouble, the problem may be deeper than just the bearing. Perhaps the spindle or wheel hub could be causing the problem.
I don't know much; just my two cents. Good luck with your project.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Ditto what Brian said.
Dissimilair metals do act as a lubricant against each other but Brass is soft Bronze my be better or you might be able to buy 'oilites'(oil impregnated bronze) in that size already.
I'm not sure you will get the service out of these that you are hoping for.
Am I to understand that these rims do not have a 'stop' in the back? The replacement bearings are Flange Bearings like a wheel Barrow?
I'd be inclined to drill and tap a Zerk fitting in the Rim and then drill a tiny hole in the outer part of the bearing. line the holes up and then simply grease the bearings once a year. I did that to two of my Floor Jacks. I didn't want those solid steel wheels wiping out the axles ( through bolts).
What does the Machinist think about the longevity of 300lbs on a brass bushing?
Dissimilair metals do act as a lubricant against each other but Brass is soft Bronze my be better or you might be able to buy 'oilites'(oil impregnated bronze) in that size already.
I'm not sure you will get the service out of these that you are hoping for.
Am I to understand that these rims do not have a 'stop' in the back? The replacement bearings are Flange Bearings like a wheel Barrow?
I'd be inclined to drill and tap a Zerk fitting in the Rim and then drill a tiny hole in the outer part of the bearing. line the holes up and then simply grease the bearings once a year. I did that to two of my Floor Jacks. I didn't want those solid steel wheels wiping out the axles ( through bolts).
What does the Machinist think about the longevity of 300lbs on a brass bushing?
tkhoffman
Well-known member
I haven't had to pop one out yet.. I assume my 782 has bearings with an I.D. of 1" the axle measured very close to 1" when I had the wheels off to grease the axle and paint the Rim. Anyone know what the O.D. and depth of these bearings are? you can <font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font> "Flange Bearing" and come close to the correct size to look for pricing
Well my rims are drilled and have grease fittings and the bearing will allow grease to flow in the center of the wheel and the bearing on my 129 were made this way and show no signs of wear after 6 years. The material looks like brass but I`am going but the colour only. I`am sure the guy making them will have a few ideas on what would work best.I could use four sets here on my Cubs and I`am not paying the high price only to have them fail so fast. I will post a picture when I pick them up. I was told for such a slow speed wheel on a Cub I would not need oil impregnate brass to do the job. The bearing surface has to be considered here from those cub ball bearings. I will have a much wider contact point with 1.5" on the inside of the wheel and 1.5" on the out side of the rim.with the wear point set on such a wide area I think they will out last the ball bearings by 10 Years. The grease fittings in the wheels will push grease into the center of the two bearings and make a few pumps a year be all that is needed. Having seen how the last set I had made last I think all my Cubs will benefit. An Original has this style bearing when it was build and I don`t know why IH went with the ball style bearing that don`t last. My .02
DON - With copper trading on the LME for over $3 US per pound, your brass bushings will be EXPENSIVE..... Last set of frt wheel bearings I bought were $64 US from my CC dealer. They were good bearings.... 5 yrs old and counting, still roll like new.
Biggest problem I had with frt wheel bearings was when I used my QA-36 on the 72... the bearings were over-loaded, plus melting snow got into them, 3-4 yrs was the typical life back then. Now I measure life of them in DECADES.
There's other metal alloys you could have them made from, some copper alloys are hard enough to wear the steel spindles, but as you would expect, that alloy costs more because it's..... "SPECIAL".
So yes, as everyone else has said.... save your money... spend it on something else.
Biggest problem I had with frt wheel bearings was when I used my QA-36 on the 72... the bearings were over-loaded, plus melting snow got into them, 3-4 yrs was the typical life back then. Now I measure life of them in DECADES.
There's other metal alloys you could have them made from, some copper alloys are hard enough to wear the steel spindles, but as you would expect, that alloy costs more because it's..... "SPECIAL".
So yes, as everyone else has said.... save your money... spend it on something else.
Hello all. Looking for the part number for the expansion plugs for the Danco US-6 creeper that folks have purchased at NAPA. I know the OD is 1.625 in. But NAPA guy said he need the number. Any help would be appreciated.
DON - It's been FORTY-EIGHT years since I was around an Original! And it was only two yrs old when it was traded for the 70. Not near enough time for the frt wheel bushings to wear.
I suspect your machine shop will use 360 free machining brass. It's common, machines like soft butter... or a "Rotten Banana" as one shop owner told me 28 yrs ago. Plus it's common enough to be "cheap", nothing Special about it.
An Aluminum bronze would be almost as hard as the steel spindle, but much more expensive in small quantities.
The bearings were used to reduce friction, last longer, and since they're such a common bearing, probably cost less over-all when using the standard wheel with the flanged bearing.
I'd really stay "stock". I think the first pair of bearings I bought 30 years ago were about $3/each, last four were over $16/each. I know the first bearings were made in the US, but the last ones were not.
To make the bushings work right, you'd have to use round bar stock larger than the bore of the frt wheels, there has to be a flange on the ends of the bushings, then turn down the length of the bushing, then cut the inner length so they almost butt up against each other. Then you'd have to grease them every 10-20 hrs of running depending on conditions... plus they'd make a greasy mess of your frt wheels.
I suspect your machine shop will use 360 free machining brass. It's common, machines like soft butter... or a "Rotten Banana" as one shop owner told me 28 yrs ago. Plus it's common enough to be "cheap", nothing Special about it.
An Aluminum bronze would be almost as hard as the steel spindle, but much more expensive in small quantities.
The bearings were used to reduce friction, last longer, and since they're such a common bearing, probably cost less over-all when using the standard wheel with the flanged bearing.
I'd really stay "stock". I think the first pair of bearings I bought 30 years ago were about $3/each, last four were over $16/each. I know the first bearings were made in the US, but the last ones were not.
To make the bushings work right, you'd have to use round bar stock larger than the bore of the frt wheels, there has to be a flange on the ends of the bushings, then turn down the length of the bushing, then cut the inner length so they almost butt up against each other. Then you'd have to grease them every 10-20 hrs of running depending on conditions... plus they'd make a greasy mess of your frt wheels.
O front wheel bearings are oil impregnated bronze.
Charlie
Thanks for that. Just what is the ID and OD on that bearing in and O If you don`t mind.? I printed of a copy of Checking a Mechanical Voltage regular by Paul Funk. Thanks to him I now have more running "charging Cub`s " .
Thanks for that. Just what is the ID and OD on that bearing in and O If you don`t mind.? I printed of a copy of Checking a Mechanical Voltage regular by Paul Funk. Thanks to him I now have more running "charging Cub`s " .
cengelking
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2006
- Messages
- 174
- displayname
- Chris Engelking
Jeff. I just have to worry about that when I get home, I drive a loader with a 10' blade for the city. It looks like were getting this one.
