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Starting to work on 127 again

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lkortkamp

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Larry
I received my new electric lift motor. I got it assembled and installed. Works nicely. Only real problem is the wiring harness is pretty rough(insulation dry and falling off). Time to upgrade. I ordered a replacement harness, including lift harness and new lift switch since mine is sticky and not returning to center every time. I think it's broken inside. So, anyhoo, it's time for new parts.

Yes, I could build a harness, but after going through all those motions, buying all the right wire, connectors and braiding I'd rather just buy one and install it. As I get older, I am tending to pick the easy route even though I'm more then qualified to make anything I need.

I tried getting the dash off the other night, but was fighting pretty hard with the hydro shifter. I couldn't find the set screw that held the lever? I sprayed it with PB and let it sit. I was able to literally just lift it off with little effort today!! There was no set screw, it was just corroded on the splines. With the dash out of the way, it will be much easier to deal with the new harness.

Here's a question for the day: What is the proper orientation for the battery terminals? Towards the dash or towards the tank? My 127 didn't really have a hold down, but did have the threaded rods on the side. What did it actually look like? Flat bar across the top of the battery? I'd like to get this all back to what it was like when new. Anyone have a good underhood picture of a stock, original 127(or I suppose any narrow frame?).
 

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rrschmitt

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Ron R. Schmitt
Larry K,

Battery terminals can only be towards the dash tower. If you try to put the battery in the other way, you will discover that when you go to install the battery retainer angle, it will contact the battery terminals. Been there, done that.
 

lkortkamp

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Larry
Thanks guys. Mine was missing that angle piece, it had some other rigged up piece of plate and I knew it was not correct and that is why I was confused on how the battery was placed.

Agree on the picture posting!!
 

mfrade

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Mike Frade
Just don't do as Frank has, don't pinch the wire between the battery and the body metal. And if your cables look as bad.. replace them! (y)
 

lkortkamp

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Larry
Charlie.........LOL!!! You need to use a well worn rope...it won't chafe the skin as bad....:LOL:

OR, as it was said on Blazing Saddles............."Oh, Brother, they said you was hung". Sheriff Bart "And they was right".

Mike, I have replaced the positive cable but the negative is quite old. I'm not sure if the main harness includes the battery ground wire? Charlie, any heads up before it gets here? I'll likely see it tomorrow? Or is it a 3 day point?? Whatever, I'll deal with it.

I've always been really careful with the cables and the battery posts getting close to anything metal(like the hood panel that separates the battery from the fuel tank. Since the battery is not tied down I've always taken it easy.
 
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fcurrier

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Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
You'd bitch if you were hung with a new rope Frank! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Charlie, I did not bitch. I powered up my simple camera, walked all the way out to the Cubhouse, raised the hood on the 73 (which is quite special to me) snapped a pic that I'm glad was good enough to show Larry that the hold down is an angled piece, came in and plugged the camera into the computer, saved and posted the pic. No resizing, easy, peasey. Couldn't help but think of all the pics that Don T. (and others) have taken the time from "working" to post to try to help others. You'd kick if you were in swimming! :)
 

dsarow

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Dean W.Sarow
Pictures are always good.I use redi-bolt connectors on my hold downs instead of nuts.My fingers don't work as good as they used to,especially in our Wisconsin winters.
 

lkortkamp

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Larry
Well, I spent the evening getting the old harness out. It was near impossible to get drug out due to being stiff as a 2x4 oak board!!! While I was under there I decided to pull the steering box too. It works great, smooth, not a lot of slop, but figured since I was there.

I rebuild the front axle before rebuilding the motor last year. I rebushed the pivot and spindles and I thought I went through the steering box. Apparently I didn't? {I did redo the 149 box and installed that thrust washer upgrade when I rebuilt that axle a year ago}. I cleaned the grease out that I had pumped in the box after I bought the tractor. It had very minimal wear/slop. I got it washed up and regreased and installed. It has always steered smoother/easier then the 149 even after I put that thrust washer set up on the 149? Not sure why? Both have everything new in the front end, including tires and bearings.

I'm just waiting for the new harness to arrive(today? tomorrow?) I've had thoughts of finding a thrower for it. The 149 has a blade, but sometimes a thrower comes in handy when the snow gets a bit deep. My only problem is the gravel driveway(groan).
IMG_20191022_185026070 (2).jpg
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lkortkamp

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Larry
Well, the harness showed up Friday afternoon. I spent the evening getting it installed. It went pretty painlessly, my only issue was changing the ignition plug over to eyelets to match the switch that is in there. Not sure if the factory switch used a 3 prong plug? It appears someone put different ends on the original harness. I cut the plug off and crimped/sealed with shrink tubing new ends and put it all together. I did have to put a jumper on the neutral safety switch plug(as it was when I tore it apart). Seems the switch is missing? I haven't looked into fixing that portion yet.

Hit the key and fired right off. Everything works like new. I had problems with the regulator when I first brought the tractor home. I did a quick file job on the points and it does charge. I don't know what the typical voltage is suppose to be(something over 12.7?) 13.xx? I had to clean the points again to get it up to 12.8 while running. Might look at just replacing it once and for all.

With the added headlight wiring already installed, I may look at adding headlights at some time.

Overall pretty happy with the project and the parts purchased. Will last longer then I'll be around to use it.

Now to keep an eye out for a blower to hang on the front.
 

mfrade

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Mike Frade
A good charging system will put out 13.8 to 14.2 volts at wide open throttle.
I think you'd be miles ahead with a new regulator to go with that new harness. And don't forget to verify the ground connection under the regulator. I even go as far as running a separate wire from the battery ground to the regulator base bolt.
 

lkortkamp

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Larry
The ground is good. I removed the lid from the regulator and was able to force the points closed and watched my Fluke meter run right up to 15 volts, until I let the points go and it then settled back down to 12.6 or so. I cleaned the points and it would go 12.9. So, yes, I just need to replace it. I wasn't sure if it was like a typical car charging voltage or not.

I forgot to order air cleaner elements also. I got the wrong ones last time, I can't seem to ever remember the RIGHT number LOL!

I see Charlie is closed up for the next couple weeks, so I survive for now. Found a couple 42A blowers locally, but a bit too spendy for what they look like. The cheaper one looks nicer, but missing mounting pieces. The other is all there, but pretty rusty looking. Nothing I can't fix, but just need to decide how nice I want it and how much I want to spend.
 

mfrade

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Mike Frade
Closing the points verified the generator can work. The points not moving could still be because of an intermittent or missing ground. These tractors are almost notorious for bad or weak grounding circuits. I'd still suggest as a simple test, Use a length of wire as a remote ground while you have your meter on the battery. Simply touch a clean spot on the regulator base and the battery negative at the same time, see what the meter says. If you replace the regulator and the system still doesn't work.. sigh. LOL. I've done the same thing on the filter. And don't forget to get a fuel filter too, I like the small ones he sells for the gravity system.
 

dropte

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Aug 21, 2017
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David Ropte
To adjust the voltage point on the regulator, you need to adjust the spring tension on the field coil part of the regulator. On older ones there’s a screw and on newer ones you have to bend the tang a little.

If it were a bad ground, you’d have intermittent voltage output as well (depending on your meter you might not see that without an oscilloscope).
 

lkortkamp

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Larry
The voltage just fluctuates a few tenths. I'll try the separate ground wire just to prove things are okay there. The tractor overall is decent condition, but I replaced the harness because I don't want to deal with a failure in the future due to no insulation in various spots. My 149 harness is in near perfect condition, but it apparently lived a sheltered life before I got it.

My regulator does have the set screw, but I didn't mess with it. The points were corroded from sitting outside for many years under a tarp. Once I brought it home and got it running it didn't charge at all. Once I filed the points it started showing charge. With little use over the last year it is starting to not show much charge. With a quick cleaning of the points it got better. I'd say the silver plating is gone from the surface and likely will continue to corroded with only minimal usage. That is the reason I was going to replace the unit.

As for fuel filter? Both mine still run the glass bowl with no issues. Even with the 127 sitting outside for decades unused, the tank is spotless inside(much to my surprise). I was able to get the tractor running well enough with some fuel to load it in my truck when I bought it. I run Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel(along with all my engines) and it has cleaned itself up well. I've never even had the carb apart.
 

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