Dean S, I am not looking down on the hydro cubs I have never run one. As to your statement of "oil" drives in the winter, let em warm up and go, I agree. Gear drive cub, start her and yer ready to go. Gear drive may be stiff going into gear the first couple of times. I realize I am not in an area that gets excessive amounts of snowfall, or extreme low temps like those guys in the upper mid-west. But, even with a gear drive cub it is a good idea to let the engine warm up a bit. On a gear drive cub running you are still somewhat moving the fluid in the reduction housing/rear.
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Archive through December 15, 2007
- Thread starter theaton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
...Start them up, warm them up (take it a bit easy for the first few minutes), and then bask in the comfort of smooth/quick direction changes, effortless hyd. implement lift....and power angle blades!!!!!!
... I guess gear drives are ok if you like putting your hand between your legs and grabbing the knob ... I'd probably still be using the 122 if I hadn't made the foot pedal on the 127 ... IH CUB CADET hydro lever placement suckz !
Dang Steve,
Now that you've gone the cab route, we won't be seeing this guy any more, LOL
Now that you've gone the cab route, we won't be seeing this guy any more, LOL
Hey, it's Frosty Blunier!
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- Home of the Plow Special
Steve-
Neat pictures, thank for posting them. We'll be expecting more tomorrow!
Wyatt-
You do good work man!
Paul K-
OK, I'll bite.....But you've got to remember that this is just MY opinion.
Quote.... "I have three questions:"
<font size="-2">Purposely answered out of order...You'll see why in a moment.</font>
2. I let out a little air in my tires as I put my chains on and then refill them, seems to help to put them on and make them tighter. Right, wrong, or in-different?
Some guys prefer to do it that way, some call that method "wrong". I see nothing wrong with it......other than the fact that you're really not able to "tune" your tire's air-pressure to the conditions at hand. It does keep the chains tight though! <font size="-2">Keep reading....</font>
1. I have never lost a tire chain, but is there a correct direction or method to put them on?
Personally, I prefer to pull the wheel off so I can make sure the chain is on tight and square on the tire. With a driveway that's 110yrds long, I don't like losing a chain while I'm out in the snow, and I can't stand seeing a damaged fender because a chain came off and hooked the fender deck on it's way around. We're getting a little ahead of ourselves here, but I'll usually start by checking tire inflation so the tires are at proper inflation. I do this by looking to see if the tire is laying a FLAT tire tread, then use a tire-gauge just to make sure both sides are equal. After that I'll pull the wheel off the tractor, and mount up the chains good and tight.
I see nothing wrong with the way you're doing it if it works for you...
<font size="-2">Keep reading....</font>
3. Tire pressures, fronts say up to 28lbs., and I have 20lbs at this moment. Rears say nothing about pressure, and I have them at 10lbs. (They are the original turf tires that came on my 1974 CC 1250.
For me, tire pressure isn't so much about what the sidewall says, but it's about helping the tire do it's intended job. Usually, that means I like a tire which is soft enough to allow the entire width of the tread to sit flat on the ground, especially with the rear tires, without too much sidewall "squat". Front tires can be inflated to "full" pressure if I want to keep steering effort low. If I'm in snow, I'll let some air out of the fronts to sit flat and get more "bite", yet still carry the weight of a snowblower or blade.
None of this stuff is rocket-science, but if you pay close attention to the details, you'll get a lot more out of your tractor when the white stuff flys. The fact that you've asked about it tells me that you're able to notice the difference which is good.
Again, all of this is my opinon, but nobody else answered so I thought I'd toss my pennies in the bucket.
Neat pictures, thank for posting them. We'll be expecting more tomorrow!
Wyatt-
You do good work man!
Paul K-
OK, I'll bite.....But you've got to remember that this is just MY opinion.
Quote.... "I have three questions:"
<font size="-2">Purposely answered out of order...You'll see why in a moment.</font>
2. I let out a little air in my tires as I put my chains on and then refill them, seems to help to put them on and make them tighter. Right, wrong, or in-different?
Some guys prefer to do it that way, some call that method "wrong". I see nothing wrong with it......other than the fact that you're really not able to "tune" your tire's air-pressure to the conditions at hand. It does keep the chains tight though! <font size="-2">Keep reading....</font>
1. I have never lost a tire chain, but is there a correct direction or method to put them on?
Personally, I prefer to pull the wheel off so I can make sure the chain is on tight and square on the tire. With a driveway that's 110yrds long, I don't like losing a chain while I'm out in the snow, and I can't stand seeing a damaged fender because a chain came off and hooked the fender deck on it's way around. We're getting a little ahead of ourselves here, but I'll usually start by checking tire inflation so the tires are at proper inflation. I do this by looking to see if the tire is laying a FLAT tire tread, then use a tire-gauge just to make sure both sides are equal. After that I'll pull the wheel off the tractor, and mount up the chains good and tight.
I see nothing wrong with the way you're doing it if it works for you...
<font size="-2">Keep reading....</font>
3. Tire pressures, fronts say up to 28lbs., and I have 20lbs at this moment. Rears say nothing about pressure, and I have them at 10lbs. (They are the original turf tires that came on my 1974 CC 1250.
For me, tire pressure isn't so much about what the sidewall says, but it's about helping the tire do it's intended job. Usually, that means I like a tire which is soft enough to allow the entire width of the tread to sit flat on the ground, especially with the rear tires, without too much sidewall "squat". Front tires can be inflated to "full" pressure if I want to keep steering effort low. If I'm in snow, I'll let some air out of the fronts to sit flat and get more "bite", yet still carry the weight of a snowblower or blade.
None of this stuff is rocket-science, but if you pay close attention to the details, you'll get a lot more out of your tractor when the white stuff flys. The fact that you've asked about it tells me that you're able to notice the difference which is good.
Again, all of this is my opinon, but nobody else answered so I thought I'd toss my pennies in the bucket.
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Blast from the past.....I don't miss the "Frosty" days one bit...it's worth evey bit of the hour in the fall and spring it takes to put on the windbreaker to be warm(er) and dry!!!!!
Paul K.
I'll echo Art's comments on chains; however, I never remove the wheels to put them on. "Work" them on good and snug and make sure your adjusters are in good shape. I always use 2 cable ties on each adjuster as "safetys" to help prevent accidental unlatchings.
Tires:
In the winter I run 20+ psi in my front tires so that I can steer the SOB with that heavy thrower installed. IF I had PS like Art's 1872 I would likely air them down a bit, but on a std. GT the hard fronts make for much easier steering. Rears, no less than 7#, no more than 10#.
Paul K.
I'll echo Art's comments on chains; however, I never remove the wheels to put them on. "Work" them on good and snug and make sure your adjusters are in good shape. I always use 2 cable ties on each adjuster as "safetys" to help prevent accidental unlatchings.
Tires:
In the winter I run 20+ psi in my front tires so that I can steer the SOB with that heavy thrower installed. IF I had PS like Art's 1872 I would likely air them down a bit, but on a std. GT the hard fronts make for much easier steering. Rears, no less than 7#, no more than 10#.
Guess I'll have to replace Steve as "Frosty" Charlie. Got the blower mounted today on the 1864 less a cab and have the blade on the 582M less a cab
Did spend a little time today on the 582M and blade cleaning up a little mess where I had to clean out a couple valleys on the house roof.
Did spend a little time today on the 582M and blade cleaning up a little mess where I had to clean out a couple valleys on the house roof.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but this is a view of things to come!
And it's going to get worse next year.
And it's going to get worse next year.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Charlie-
What is most of that stuff? That list is really long...
What is most of that stuff? That list is really long...
Chris: Do you have a Tractor Supply Co. store near you? If so, get a can of this
wipe down everywhere you are going to spray it with rubbing alcohol or laquer thinner to clean off any wax/dirt/grease, etc..and spray the inside of the discharge chute.
They also sell it in quarts and gallons. If you get a quart can, then coat the inside of the auger housing and auger also to help keep the snow from sticking inside the housing, and it will slide off the auger easier too!
I also use it on the underside of the mower decks...it greatly reduces the amount of grass that sticks to the underside of the mowers!!
NOTE: It is black colored graphite 'slick paint'...and it kinda smells...so use it in a ventilated area.
wipe down everywhere you are going to spray it with rubbing alcohol or laquer thinner to clean off any wax/dirt/grease, etc..and spray the inside of the discharge chute.
They also sell it in quarts and gallons. If you get a quart can, then coat the inside of the auger housing and auger also to help keep the snow from sticking inside the housing, and it will slide off the auger easier too!
I also use it on the underside of the mower decks...it greatly reduces the amount of grass that sticks to the underside of the mowers!!
NOTE: It is black colored graphite 'slick paint'...and it kinda smells...so use it in a ventilated area.
Matt G.
That's just one section of one page.
There's going to be over 300 Cub items go NLA next year!
That's just one section of one page.
There's going to be over 300 Cub items go NLA next year!
Chris P.
There is snow that no matter what you do will clog you up. One thing you might want to do since your having such a problem is to take less of a bite and make sure your runnin wide open.
The slower you go the faster the snow moves through the hole.
Even with a super thrower, sometimes you just can't push that white crap very far.
There is snow that no matter what you do will clog you up. One thing you might want to do since your having such a problem is to take less of a bite and make sure your runnin wide open.
The slower you go the faster the snow moves through the hole.
Even with a super thrower, sometimes you just can't push that white crap very far.
ge guys i just would love to have 1 of those cozy cabs for my 149 but at the price of shipping it would cost to much to get it here.we are getting a small snow storm here, took my jeep to town and was gone about 40 min and the snow had filled in all the tracks.we are getting rain later and i will plow it as it turns to rain later DonT
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- Brian Branstetter
Charlie---
That sucks!! but thanks for the heads up.
On a brighter note I've got some action shots from our winter blast here in Augusta.
That sucks!! but thanks for the heads up.
On a brighter note I've got some action shots from our winter blast here in Augusta.
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- Brian Branstetter
Here's a few more
- Joined
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- Brian Branstetter
That second one was pretty bad here's the end
