-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through December 06, 2006
- Thread starter cellis
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig: I went out on the McMaster-Carr site and found they have that knuckle with bore sizes from 9/16 to 15/16. The part number you spec'ed was 3/8 and part number 6445K4 is 1/2". When you drilled yours out, did you need to go all the way to 1/2"? I ask so I don't have to go out to the shed with calipers and measure the dang thing!!
Craig, glad my post was, um, halfway useful.
Eric,
It's possible that your throttle lever mechanism has been replaced with a non-adjustable after market type, bummer.
(
You might be able to "fix" that loose discharge chute by removing the 3 clips that hold it onto the auger housing and bend thm slightly so that they slightly clamp the discharge rather then just acting as retainers. Don't over do it as the reverse problem is usually the case, the chute will freeze up.
Is the friction washer (item #23) still in good condition?
Eric,
It's possible that your throttle lever mechanism has been replaced with a non-adjustable after market type, bummer.
( You might be able to "fix" that loose discharge chute by removing the 3 clips that hold it onto the auger housing and bend thm slightly so that they slightly clamp the discharge rather then just acting as retainers. Don't over do it as the reverse problem is usually the case, the chute will freeze up.
Is the friction washer (item #23) still in good condition?
Craig, I believe that the shaft is 7/16", but it would be best to measure it to be sure. Please report back what you find. Or I can measure mine tonight and post it tomorrow.
Hey,Glen heres my stack on my 104,it really barks at all the neihborhood off brand lawn riders,lets them know whos boss"lol". KennyM.
<font color="ff0000">HELLOOOOO - is anyone paying attention? Hit ENTER between the pictures!!!</font>
<font color="ff0000">HELLOOOOO - is anyone paying attention? Hit ENTER between the pictures!!!</font>
Craig, I know I didn't have to drill it out much maybe it was just to make it slide on easier. If the bore is 3/8 and the shaft is 3/8 that doesn't leave much for clearance. It was 2 years ago when I did it and I'm not getting any younger.
Hi Kraig,
Thanks for the advise. I've not checked the friction washer on the hydro control. The surging problem seemed to come on last night as I started running full throttle to run the snowblower. Working from the gas tank end of the dash is a pain. Is it best to take the dash off to work on the hydro and throttle? Do I remove the dash by removing the four screws, handles, buttons, etc., on the black dash cover? I won't be able to get at this until the weeknend. I fly out today on business and won't be back until late Friday night. I'm considering just taking it my cub shop on Saturday morning and asking them to get get the hydro and throttle dialed in. I'm also reluctant to spend a lot of $$ on something that may just take me a couple hours. Advice?
Thanks for the advise. I've not checked the friction washer on the hydro control. The surging problem seemed to come on last night as I started running full throttle to run the snowblower. Working from the gas tank end of the dash is a pain. Is it best to take the dash off to work on the hydro and throttle? Do I remove the dash by removing the four screws, handles, buttons, etc., on the black dash cover? I won't be able to get at this until the weeknend. I fly out today on business and won't be back until late Friday night. I'm considering just taking it my cub shop on Saturday morning and asking them to get get the hydro and throttle dialed in. I'm also reluctant to spend a lot of $$ on something that may just take me a couple hours. Advice?
Eric, I believe the proper way is to remove the tunnel or frame cover that is just in front of the seat, but that might be just for the 129, 149 and 169.
Kraig: Gettin' old ain't for wimps, that's for sure. With all the stuff that starts to go, the most annoying I think is eyesight. I've been luckly not to need glasses all my life and now find myself with those drug store reading glasses all over the house. I must have 15 pairs. Worse, I can't read anything except billboards without them. Drives me nuts.
Craig, I'm nearsighted. Started wearing glasses when I was 12, switched to hard contact lenses when I was 15. Been wearing hard contact lenses ever since, not the same pair, though the first pair lasted for 11 years, never broke one never lost one. My second set of contacts were gas permeable, aka "rigid" contacts as opposed to "hard" (not gas permeable) contacts, they are not as durable or comfortable IMO as the old hard contacts. I have broken a couple of the rigid lenses. Wow, I've been wearing contacts for 30 years. Still don't need reading glasses, hopefully I won't any time soon.
Bad news, my CC 1250 has been kicked out of the garage. My wife can't seem to manuver around it with the blade on and the kids want to play on it and someone's going to fall off and get hurt according to her. So, I am about to move it to the un-heated shed. I have purchase one of those magnetic oil pan heaters (200 watt) to warm up my hydro prior to those snowy days. Where is the most effective spot to place it and how long does it need to be on there? I don't want to keep it plugged in all winter long, only prior to usage.
Paul,
I feel your pain. I had to negotiate with my wife to keep the 1200 with QA-42A in our garage. My outside unheated shed is full and there was no other place to park it. The best part of the negotiation occurred when she stated I have so many ccs around that she can't keep track of them. Hmmmmmmm......perhaps I can add to my collection.
I feel your pain. I had to negotiate with my wife to keep the 1200 with QA-42A in our garage. My outside unheated shed is full and there was no other place to park it. The best part of the negotiation occurred when she stated I have so many ccs around that she can't keep track of them. Hmmmmmmm......perhaps I can add to my collection.
Paul, I have one of those heaters I place it on the underside of the hydro wherever it will stick, right about where the red X is. Please note that your Cub Cadet may not have the red X.
I usually only leave mine plugged in for a 1/2 hour or so, kinda depends on how cold it is.
I usually only leave mine plugged in for a 1/2 hour or so, kinda depends on how cold it is.
My 125 has to set outside all winter, no room in the garage or shed. (
(
KRAIG, POP'S - I have the chrome lift handle on My 72 and it comes apart but it really doesn't go back together well. I broke a lift arm off Mine pushing snow several years ago, and while welding it back together I broke the top button off the 5/16" dia. shaft that latches the lever in place. I think it's only avail for My 72 as a complete assembly from CC since the lever itself is welded to the rockshaft. But I bought the 5/16" rod, cut it to length, threaded the top for the button, then installed it with the return spring & washer then used My acetylene torch to heat & bend the bottom inch that latches into the quadrant. IF You force the rod up thru the handle around the rockshaft the rod will bend enough the spring won't latch the rod. On the newer WF tractors the whole lever attaches to the rockshaft with a rollpin and they come apart much easier. I'm not sure the chrome tube is removable from the bottom forged part the rollpin passes thru however. I never had to take My 129 apart that far.
Similar threads
