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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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enei

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Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
85
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eric nei
Hey Guys,

I put on and greased the snow blower last night and went hunting for a paved drive that still had a couple inches of Lake Superior fluff. Was pleasantly surprised to find that I can run at top ground speed and top throttle and the machine doesn't seem to care. I wouldn't recomend this. Steering gets a little tricky. Looking forward to a real snow storm.

One question from this:

The shoot on the blower wants to rotate to a forward position. How do you tighted the shoot to stay where you point it.

One lesson from this little test run. Without a cab, don't run into the wind. By son was laughing so hard he fell down on the ground.
 
I need information on the front blade for a 127.
I need to install the front blade and would like to see the parts ,fasteners and instructions if possible. I just bought the tractor and received
all the manuals mower,snow blower, disks and plow but nothing for the front blade.

Caroll
 
When I try to start a 149 there is a loud click when the key is turned. I have replaced the battery, starter, coil and condenser. The solonoid is the only other thing I can think of but hate to replace it if not necessary. Anbody got any ideas?
 
Eric N.
Where the red arrow is pointing. Loosen that nut on the other side and tilt that whole assmebly down towards the chute ring and re-tighten.
Don't go to far or you won't be able to turn the chute.
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Charlie, nice addition to the FAQ.
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Bill, on these old tractors the wiring could be bad at any number of locations. Could be the key switch or the starter/generator too. Be sure to check the ground connections. If you have a Volt/Ohm meter you could check all the wires disconnect the battery if you are going to use the Ohm function.

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Big thanks to Roland B. for the nice schematics.
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Eric, before I got the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Windbreaker cab I used to wear my full face snowmobile helmet (I actually wore the entire snowmobile outfit, jacket, bibs, boots, face mask, gloves, etc.) while using the snowthrower. I might have looked funny but I was warm.
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Eric, be happy that the chute rotates easily, better that then having it freeze up, which BTW, will eventually happen. The best way that I have found to prevent it freezing up is to DO THIS.
 
Charlie,

Thanks for the directions and pic. You and many others on this list have helped me a great deal.

Kraig,

Slip plated this past weekend. BTW, when it says 'do this in a well ventilated area,' pay attention. Stuff really stinks up the house when done in the basement. Next year it happens in warm weather so I can do it in the garage. Last winter thing to do is put a right angle extension on the exhaust and try to tighten the steering a bit.
 
Bill,

Whenever you have the clicking noise from the solenoid but the Starter/Generator won't turn, its either a weak battery or a bad electrical connection somewhere. You said you have just replaced the battery and I trust it was fully charged. Clean your battery cables connectors with a wire brush and reattach. Also inspect the cable around the connector for signs of corrosion up underneath the insulation. If you see green gunk working its way up under the insulation, then you have corrosion attacking the copper wire and you will need to cut off the old connector and install a new one on clean section of battery cable.

You also stated that you replaced the starter/generator (S/G). Make sure you hooked it up properly per the posted wiring diagram and reattached the ground wire on the lower front S/G mounting bolt. This ground wire attaches to the front grill/frame which is grounded to the battery. Remove that attaching bolt common to the grill housing and cable to make sure the connector is clean and mating surfaces free of rust.

Still no go, next thing to check is the other end of the battery ground cable where its attached to the frame. Remove the attaching bolt and clean the connector and mating surface with a wire brush there. Finally, check and clean the connectors on the solenoid which is behind the gas tank and attached to the right side of the steering column. You will have to remove the gas tank for access. Also make sure the connectors are clean and tight on your S/G. Still no go after checking all the connections and making sure the battery is fully charged, then I would change the solenoid. The fact that you hear the clicking sound from the solenoid indicates that everything (key switch and safety switches) is working up to that point and the solenoid itself is working but sometimes the contacts internally go bad. If that don't fix it then you better have your new S/G checked out.
 
Bill G., you can bypass the solenoid by taking a battery jumper cable, connect it to the positive battery and touch the other end to the large wire on the S/G. If it still doesn't turn, check those grounds, as mentioned. If it then turns, jumper the battery side of the solenoid to the S/
G. If it turns then and the cables are good, the solenoid if bad.
 
O.K. Fellas, show um to me, whats the best way to rig up a vertical muffler on a Cub??? (cadet that is of course)
 
These pics were posted over on the WFM site, but I just had to share to show how the green guys will try so very hard to help a Cub guy out.
Seems Nate P. had a slight problem with his seat,
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So, being the good guys they are. They fixed his seat so he would be more comfortable.
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Glen C.
Do a search for muffler in the last 30 days and you will find all the pics and info we talked about with ya.
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Glen C., I found another photo of Brad D's Cub Cadet that shows a bracket on that verticle exhaust. I'll check my archives from the last few years and see what I can find for you.

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Glen C., here's one. I believe that this one was done by a guy named Scott Cross.

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Glen C., this one on an Original named Grrrrr&#153;, by a guy named Paul Bell. Paul has since sold Grrrrr&#153;.

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Glen C., I should point something out in Scott's photos that I posted below. The top photo was his first version, the bottom two are of his improved version where he added a heat shield to the muffler to keep it from burning the paint and/or the decal off of the hood. If you look close you can see the sheet metal with about 1/8" to 1/4" of clearance between it and the muffler.
 
Where can you find the narrow rims for the front wheels to take the tri-rib tires? What models came with them?
Thanks guys,
David
 

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