Any one have a really terrific and trustworthy dealer/mechanic who knows their way around a 1450 and is within 100 miles of Pittsburgh, PA. Took in my tractor, paid through the nose and, while there was improvement, for the money it ought run better. I installed a new muffler but it's noiser than it ought to be, runs rich with some oil smoke under load, vibrates more than it ought to even with new isolation mounts, and the throttle is not progressive but moves from idle to pretty close to full without any perceptable middle speeds. When I called my dealer back to ask about these difficulties, "Thirty years old" I'm told, but hell, I've been in DC3's that are twenty years older and certainly run better. My 1450 is built like a horse, is and always has been maintained in fluids, lubrication, plug, and filters and ought to be better than it "feels" since visiting the dealer. Something is wrong and I can't isolate the problem. This winter I need a hotshot mechanic. Someone who both cares and is good.
Well, it's been a long time coming, but I'm making progress on Loader-Mutt. By a stroke of luck, I've acquired a Johnson Workhorse loader with hydraulic bucket, but it came with a narrow-frame bracket. In keeping with my philosophy of Loader-Mutt, I'll build a new bracket, and add a little beef where beef might be due. Here's pictures of what I did. Note- I've been gone lots, so my shop time limited my picture-taking breaks.
I started by making a pair of slip-on sockets to reach around the axle castings. I used non-corrugated cardboard, measuring tools, and my drafting kit to make a fitment template, then I checked the fit, made slight adjustments, then transferred the dimensions to steel, and cut these plates. They look a bit narrow right now, but once the locking-plates are on, they'll have plenty of surface which to distribute the loader reactions upon.
Then I cut some square-tube segments to make the frame, and a big piece of heavy channel-iron for the arms to actually 'sit' on.
Finally, I cut some plates to span from the tapered frame area forward to the 'frankenstein bolts'.
This involved making a bend, so I used the 20-ton shop press to make the bend without some obscene bending machine.
Next- make mount plate for steering cylinders, then the forward-brace brackets and forward braces... then off to the hydraulics shop!
Well, the 14 and 16s vibrate quite a bit. You'll hear the bunch talk about 'balance' or 'grenade' gears used on the later 12hp-and-up Kohlers, and while many small engines that use counter-rotating balance gears, the Kohler engines tend to spit these gears out through the side of the block... SO... most guys remove the 'grenade gears' when they do a rebuild. Higher vibration is the cost for higher reliability, so keep that in mind...
Smoke... in older Kohlers isn't usually a rich-mixture indication- Kohlers develop cylinder taper and piston/ring wear, and they start passing oil. The 'right' fix is a standard overbore and new piston/rings. In some cases, a pair of valve guides, perhaps a valve, and a rod-doctoring job are required, but when it's all done RIGHT, they burn pretty darned clean.
If you're really desiring a nice runner, pull the engine, and have it rebuilt. Have the carb rebuilt, too, and have a new throttle-shaft bushing put in if it needs it... it'll run SO much better!!!
A rebuild will cut down some of the slap and noise, but they'll still be kinda loud, and they'll ~v~i~b~r~a~t~e~... but not as bad on a Quiet-Line than on a previous NoisyLine (rigid frame). One thing that will make a QL vibrate MORE... is having the iso-mounts tightened TOO FAR... they work best with a little 'floating room'.
Another thing that will make it vibrate "more" is the fact that the latest replacement iso-mount rubber is a harder compound than the old stuff.
These engines are pretty much designed to run their smoothest at operating (read, 3600RPM) speed. So it's always gonna bounce around a bit at anything less.
Finally, if you're just banging the throttle lever up and down, no, you're probably not going to get the same throttle response as in a car. You're going to have to move the throttle lever slowly. Also remember that "correct" idle for these is around 1800RPM, so you may not perceive a whole lot of difference between 1800RPM and 3600RPM but a tach will.
The front axle is off a late model Cub Cadet, something like an 1862 and the like. The spindles are 1" trailer spindles, one set I had someone turn on a lathe so they'll fit with wheels available from Northern Tool, the set on this tractor I turned down to work with off-the-shelf Carlisle wheels. Northern Tool's wheels have 0" offset, and the standard Carlisle wheels (available from most anywhere that sells Carlisle tires) have something like a 1" offset.
Gary S. To expand a wee bit on what Bryan said, the carbs on the older Cub Cadets have no accelerator pump, so when someone jams the throttle from low to high speed, there is a lack of fuel to feed the engine which results in a lean condition and causes the engine to have a lack of power until the carburator can catch up, usually within a second or so. The other thing that wasn't mentioned was that the cradle could have issues and the iso-mounts could be worn out.
Devolped a slite problem with my 123 yesterday I think.
I changed out the old oil with new Mobil 10-30 and now it smokes, smoke is comming from the breather not exahust.
What could cause this and will it hurt the engine if I run the engine much longer?