till
Well-known member
Just thinking about a little project. To clearify, I'm talking about the final drives off a Farmall Cub. I figure that I can run a Hydro in "Revers" to take care of that extra gear reversal....
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Archive through August 30, 2004
- Thread starter bjordan
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Bob Elliott,
Look at the top of this site, Madson's Service Inc. Click on there logo, and e-mail them with what you need. They will send you the price and any ordering info.
[email protected]
Look at the top of this site, Madson's Service Inc. Click on there logo, and e-mail them with what you need. They will send you the price and any ordering info.
[email protected]
Wyatt, I like your RED paint! BTW, I went to the FPS today and saw the ISU ASAE pullers again and took some more photos. I asked about the Yellow and Blue puller you mentioned the other day. They said it is one of their more popular pullers but has some sort of problem at present time. Going back to the show tomorrow probably, so have not downloaded the photos yet!
sleggett
Well-known member
I was mowing the other day and threw the gen-starter belt on my 102, actually shreaded it!
Next to go was the outside edge of the wheel where the bearing fit's, just peeled it back, bummer.
So I robbed the front wheels off my 126 and replaced the bad one onto the 102.
My question is, when tightening the capscrew and flat washer on the wheel, my service manual for my 126 states-if excesive end play exists (maximum 1/32"), place a sufficient thickness of shim washers (3/4" ID) over the outer end of spindle and between the retaining washer and wheel bearing to take up excess end play-Would it be better for the shims to go between the inner end of the spindle and inner wheel bearing, if not much shimming is required?
Also the capscrew should be tight, so is it ok to have no play, or better to have that 1/32" play between the retaining washer and wheel bearing, am I overthinking this?
While im on here, i would like to put ag tires on my 149, right now it has 23x10.5-12 turf tires.
Can I go wider? or will clearance be a problem when tilling or maybe some day plowing?
I have yet to use the 149, still need to rebuild engine and peice tractor together.
Thanks for any help
(Message edited by sleggett on August 31, 2004)
Next to go was the outside edge of the wheel where the bearing fit's, just peeled it back, bummer.
So I robbed the front wheels off my 126 and replaced the bad one onto the 102.
My question is, when tightening the capscrew and flat washer on the wheel, my service manual for my 126 states-if excesive end play exists (maximum 1/32"), place a sufficient thickness of shim washers (3/4" ID) over the outer end of spindle and between the retaining washer and wheel bearing to take up excess end play-Would it be better for the shims to go between the inner end of the spindle and inner wheel bearing, if not much shimming is required?
Also the capscrew should be tight, so is it ok to have no play, or better to have that 1/32" play between the retaining washer and wheel bearing, am I overthinking this?
While im on here, i would like to put ag tires on my 149, right now it has 23x10.5-12 turf tires.
Can I go wider? or will clearance be a problem when tilling or maybe some day plowing?
I have yet to use the 149, still need to rebuild engine and peice tractor together.
Thanks for any help
(Message edited by sleggett on August 31, 2004)
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John-
I think I saw that yellow and blue puller at the ASAE pulls in Davenport earlier this summer. If it's the same one I'm thinking of, to say that it has problems is an understatement.
There was a yellow and blue cub-based puller there that kept popping out of gear and on each successive pull it sounded worse and worse. Major bearing or gear lash type of grinding sounds... Not good..
I think I saw that yellow and blue puller at the ASAE pulls in Davenport earlier this summer. If it's the same one I'm thinking of, to say that it has problems is an understatement.
There was a yellow and blue cub-based puller there that kept popping out of gear and on each successive pull it sounded worse and worse. Major bearing or gear lash type of grinding sounds... Not good..
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Changing the subject....
Does anybody know if <font color="ff0000">Haban</font> ever made a Sickle-Mo for an Original?
Does anybody know if <font color="ff0000">Haban</font> ever made a Sickle-Mo for an Original?
Steven L,
When I was tightening up my steering and replacing wheels/tires on my 147, I also had too much play on the wheel and spindle. I wanted to shim the inside. Instead of steel washers, I cut a short length (about 1/4") of 5/8" automotive heater hose and forced it over the spindle. It took up the play, and the bearing was still able to turn. Since the inner end has the larger diameter, rounded unmachined casting, the hose kind of slides up onto it and doesn't slide too far in when the wheel nut is tightened. The spinning part of the bearing cuts its own little groove in the end of the hose. It might not work if there was a lot of play, but it did in this case. The hose even acts as kind of a grease seal .
I've used it this way for tilling this spring, and for mowing. So far, it's still okay. I don't know how it will hold up in the long run, but it's working now.
When I was tightening up my steering and replacing wheels/tires on my 147, I also had too much play on the wheel and spindle. I wanted to shim the inside. Instead of steel washers, I cut a short length (about 1/4") of 5/8" automotive heater hose and forced it over the spindle. It took up the play, and the bearing was still able to turn. Since the inner end has the larger diameter, rounded unmachined casting, the hose kind of slides up onto it and doesn't slide too far in when the wheel nut is tightened. The spinning part of the bearing cuts its own little groove in the end of the hose. It might not work if there was a lot of play, but it did in this case. The hose even acts as kind of a grease seal .
I've used it this way for tilling this spring, and for mowing. So far, it's still okay. I don't know how it will hold up in the long run, but it's working now.
Art-
Not that popping out of gear is unusual, but we did have that problem with that tractor, but didn't think it was too bad. It's got 3 pulling gears and the MWSC "4-speed forks" in it. I know it did have a hardened top shaft so I wouldn't think the top shaft's twisted, but I'm not sure, I think we ended up putting an underdrive gear set in it during our pulls so I know it is getting a pretty harsh hammering.
Not that popping out of gear is unusual, but we did have that problem with that tractor, but didn't think it was too bad. It's got 3 pulling gears and the MWSC "4-speed forks" in it. I know it did have a hardened top shaft so I wouldn't think the top shaft's twisted, but I'm not sure, I think we ended up putting an underdrive gear set in it during our pulls so I know it is getting a pretty harsh hammering.
Does anybody know, regarding a 782D, is there anything special I need to know before I take off the rear end and trans from the frame? I know that the bolts hold it on, and that the hydrolic lines need to come off from the pump or the the levers up front, but is there anything else I need to be aware of. I am painting the frame rails, and need to have that taken off to clean up and repair some leaks on it. It is my first COMPLETE rebulid,and I want to do it all correctly, so any hlpe or surprises I may run into, would be greatly appriciated.
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Wyatt-
If I remember correctly that was the guy who jammed the shifter into gear, picked up a 4"X4" block of wood and bungie-corded it between the shifter lever and the seat. I didn't think much of it until he gave the wood block a couple of wacks with his fist like the Rodeo dudes do just before they open the gate.
I looked for spurs, but didn't see any....
If I remember correctly that was the guy who jammed the shifter into gear, picked up a 4"X4" block of wood and bungie-corded it between the shifter lever and the seat. I didn't think much of it until he gave the wood block a couple of wacks with his fist like the Rodeo dudes do just before they open the gate.
I looked for spurs, but didn't see any....
ART - Used to be a pulling group around south central WI, Tri-County Pullers Assoc. I think Don called them. Son & I used to follow the parade of tractors to every little bar that hosted pulls 10 yrs ago to watch the action. The wedging/tying of the trans into gear is pretty common on the old Cubs.
sblunier
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Bruce, Steven L.,
Buy several 3/4" bronze thrust washers and install them between the outter bearing and the heavy washer/bolt. It will take most of the play out of the front wheels and not be ahrd enough to do any damage to the face of the bearing.
I had a pic somewhere, Kraig, Do you have it???? (2 bronze washers on an oak table)
Buy several 3/4" bronze thrust washers and install them between the outter bearing and the heavy washer/bolt. It will take most of the play out of the front wheels and not be ahrd enough to do any damage to the face of the bearing.
I had a pic somewhere, Kraig, Do you have it???? (2 bronze washers on an oak table)
bmcmeen
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Nathanial D. -
Why yes, there IS something special you should do before you tear your tractor apart. Buy a service manual. The procedure is explained in excruciating detail and even has pictures...
Why yes, there IS something special you should do before you tear your tractor apart. Buy a service manual. The procedure is explained in excruciating detail and even has pictures...
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Denny-
Yea, I have to do that to the Original when I'm plowing, so I wasn't surprised to see it. It was the fist pounding part that was new to me. Guess he didn't want to be in "almost gear".
Must be something along the same lines as being "kind of pregnant"....
Yea, I have to do that to the Original when I'm plowing, so I wasn't surprised to see it. It was the fist pounding part that was new to me. Guess he didn't want to be in "almost gear".
Must be something along the same lines as being "kind of pregnant"....
R
rmull
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Would it be "kind of pregnant" if the baby is a on the lab table, in the petri dish? IVF..
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Steve-
...and couldn't ya just guess WHO it was gonna be?
...and couldn't ya just guess WHO it was gonna be?
Art---- Has anyone found anything about a haben that does not fit under an original? Still want to try it. Sorry to say that I wander if the workhorse orignal here is up to much more. List of problems is getting long. Still spraying with it this fall. Have all the fence rows to do with it soon. Field just got cut. Looks like just over 1300 pounds of lentals per acre. Not too bad.
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Jerry-
I'm thinking there'd be problems with the front axle hangers being the wrong size. Also, you'd have to have some sort of provision for a PTO. Either the Original PTO kit, or a belt-type PTO on the Haban itself like the Original [timed] decks have.
Although I've never compared them side-by-side, I'm thinking the Original is shorter than a narrow frame cub, but that could be taken up via moving the rear hanger forward a bit.
I'm thinking there'd be problems with the front axle hangers being the wrong size. Also, you'd have to have some sort of provision for a PTO. Either the Original PTO kit, or a belt-type PTO on the Haban itself like the Original [timed] decks have.
Although I've never compared them side-by-side, I'm thinking the Original is shorter than a narrow frame cub, but that could be taken up via moving the rear hanger forward a bit.
R
rmull
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Musta been the fall...
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