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Archive through August 16, 2012
- Thread starter rfuller
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
My 2 125s circa 1994. The one on the right is the one my parents bought new. I bought the other one in 1993 with the cab, a Dexter Sweepster rotary broom, wheel weights, headlights, extra heqadlight, a rear mount battery, rear weight and tire chains for $300.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Was looking through some OLD postings, people have added some pictures of their garages in - WOW! First off, some of you have tv's in them. ??? What you watching on there while working? I wish I had a tv in my shop that played just Cub videos. I thought I had it great just having a STEREO in it! All joking aside, some of you have great looking Cub spaces. If there was two things in your Cub space you could not do without, what would they be? I have a list as long as my arm of wants or what my pea brain thinks it NEEDS in there - but then reality comes along and bursts my bubble
joshua donald stertz Order a PTO kit from one of the sponsors. It will have everything you will need except your wrenches. Go to the faqs and Charlies faqs or the service manual and it will givw you step by step on repairing your pto.It is a very simple repair. Just be careful with the six set screws. Clean them and add p b blaster before you start.
Mike i have a converted horse barn for a shop. Certainly nothing nice. But it is a good place to work. The things i use the most in my shop besides Electricity and water is my air compresser and a hoist. I hang the cubs almost vertical to sharpen the blades or about anything i have to work on under the tractor. Also lifting engines or anything heavy including the motorcycle. The air compresser is used almost daily for the air tools and air for tires since i change my tires instead of taking them to the tire shop.
Alan S. Thanx for the reply. I am still confused the starter i bought to replace the old one says anti clock on it so i assumed that meant counter clockwise. All starters that i have seen on the net are all CCW. So i am not sure why the nut keeps loosening.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Got a question: What is the life expectancy of the Flange Assembly (P/N 703-0204)?
I was rather surprised to find that the part I only had 60 hours on was no longer an "Assembly" but came apart in two pieces when I removed the motor the other day: the drive shaft bushing was no longer captured by the flange which attaches to the flywheel.
I put everything back together, because I was in a hurry, but now I'm having second thoughts, because the shaft isn't really being held in place by anything other than the two flex disks at the front.
A few secondary questions: Is the proper functioning of this part critical to the drive shaft's operation on my 82 Series tractor? (The same question would apply to Quietline tractors as well.) How often should I expect to replace it? How can I tell if it is going bad and in need of replacement (short of removing it)?
I was rather surprised to find that the part I only had 60 hours on was no longer an "Assembly" but came apart in two pieces when I removed the motor the other day: the drive shaft bushing was no longer captured by the flange which attaches to the flywheel.
I put everything back together, because I was in a hurry, but now I'm having second thoughts, because the shaft isn't really being held in place by anything other than the two flex disks at the front.
A few secondary questions: Is the proper functioning of this part critical to the drive shaft's operation on my 82 Series tractor? (The same question would apply to Quietline tractors as well.) How often should I expect to replace it? How can I tell if it is going bad and in need of replacement (short of removing it)?
mfrade
Well-known member
Mike P., re; 2 things in the shop.
1. Compressed Air
2. Stout bench with a vise that opens at least 6 inches.
1. Compressed Air
2. Stout bench with a vise that opens at least 6 inches.
BILL J. - re plowing with Cub Cadets... The narrow width of CC's transfers more weight off the left rear wheel, also called the "Land Wheel" onto the right rear wheel, also called the "Furrow wheel", because of running the right wheel in the furrow, which tips the tractor to the right. And also because the furrow wheel is running on nice freshly uncovered and most times damp dirt it gets better traction. The land wheel is running on dry, often trashy dirt that traction varies on.
This even effects full size tractors when plowing. Years ago when farmers always plowed most ran a dual wheel on the land wheel while getting two tires into the furrow wasn't possible. I've put an extra wheel weight on the land wheel when plowing before which helped balance the traction from side-to-side but still didn't end the slippage of the land wheel.
As Kraig's picture shows, most people just sit over the edge of the seat towards the land wheel when plowing.
The amount of extra weight needed to plow varies with conditions, but when plowing in "Normal" conditions, meaning not wet enough to be slick & muddy, or dry enough for the ground to be rock hard, only lugged tires or turf tires with chains, and one, maybe two sets of 26# IH weights are enough. More is sometimes better in difficult conditions. Normally added frt weight isn't needed. I ran about 75# of frt weight @ PD#1 with my #72 and really didn't need it, in fact I think it reduced weight transfer to the rear wheels. I have about 130# of suitcase weights I can put on the frt of my 982, and sometimes I really need them, like when plowing and raising the plow out of the ground... I've had both frt tires a foot or two off the ground. But for just plowing the extra frt weight isn't really needed IMO.
This even effects full size tractors when plowing. Years ago when farmers always plowed most ran a dual wheel on the land wheel while getting two tires into the furrow wasn't possible. I've put an extra wheel weight on the land wheel when plowing before which helped balance the traction from side-to-side but still didn't end the slippage of the land wheel.
As Kraig's picture shows, most people just sit over the edge of the seat towards the land wheel when plowing.
The amount of extra weight needed to plow varies with conditions, but when plowing in "Normal" conditions, meaning not wet enough to be slick & muddy, or dry enough for the ground to be rock hard, only lugged tires or turf tires with chains, and one, maybe two sets of 26# IH weights are enough. More is sometimes better in difficult conditions. Normally added frt weight isn't needed. I ran about 75# of frt weight @ PD#1 with my #72 and really didn't need it, in fact I think it reduced weight transfer to the rear wheels. I have about 130# of suitcase weights I can put on the frt of my 982, and sometimes I really need them, like when plowing and raising the plow out of the ground... I've had both frt tires a foot or two off the ground. But for just plowing the extra frt weight isn't really needed IMO.
Chuck, Are you missing the jam nut on that exhaust elbow?? Picture sure looks like it. The jam nut is supposed to keep the elbow tight in the block while at the proper orientation/angle to install the muffler. I think these nuts are the same as used on ridgid EMT (pipe thread)
Dave S.
Dave S.
