Archive through August 10, 2014

[jgilliam]

Hey Harry & others,

I am trying to get my motor to turn over in my 1450. I put a new battery on it, and turned the key. All I hear is a click,click in the solenoid. More like a snap, snap. I thought that maybe since I put new rubber motor mounts in that the stater was not grounded. I put a separate ground strap from one of the starter bolts and attached to the frame. No change. I can take the starter out and ground to the frame and it is getting fire and will spin, but not put in the motor. Just that click click each time I turn the key. I think I have either a solenoid or starter problem. ANY Help?? Appreciated for sure
Jerry [email protected]

 

[bwittman]

Harry, Kraig.

Thank you for the picture and the answering of my post. Yes, it is an adjustable; Yes, I went to look at it; and for $50, Yes, I hauled it home, much to the chagrin of others involved in(controlling)my life.

In its day, it has thrown a rock, or two, with-in its show removal duties. The flights are a little beat up, and they need some welding and straightening; and the auger probably needs to be balanced. The bearings seem tight, the sprockets and chain look to be in decent shape, the gearbox seems reasonably tight, and all the guards are there. I am a bit concerned about the condition of the drive shaft, but if Cub Cadet or CaseIH can't supply replacement parts, I am sure a good bearing and drive shop can make it whole. There was no lift rod, but rather, a chain to attach to the lift cam.

Needed: A roundtuit to get the thing fixed up, and a decent higher horsepower wide-frame to mount it. I wonder if it will ever throw a flake of snow again.

 

[stanner]

Brian,
here ya go... they don't seem to be doing me any good....

 

[hydroharry]

Jerry G - did you get a big enough CCA output on your new battery? I think you need at least 350 to 375 CCA. If you didn't get this much then before you run and get another battery try jumping yours from your car/truck. If you still get the same click click (snap snap) then you solenoid may have failed.

To test to see if your solenoid has likely failed you could turn you key to the on position and very very carefully use a jumper wire across the 2 large terminals on your solenoid. Be very very careful as you will likely get a spark doing this. Make sure you use an insulated 12 gauge or larger grade wire that is insulated where you are holding it and just has the stripped ends exposed. Remove it as soon as your engine starts.
Let us know how you make out.

Brian W - hey which thrower is it? QA36A or QA42A? As for greater horsepower, heck your 1250 has plenty to run it. It's not the HP that is the problem using it - it really works best with a Hydro (which you obviously have) and makes it easiest to control the speed feeding it snow. The gear drive guys have to slip their clutch, change gears, etc, trying to figure out and get the best speed.
Now, I recommend you tear the whole unit apart and make sure everything internal is in great shape including the gear box, the drive shaft, the shaft and bearing for the small chain sprocket, the bearing for the auger. AND when you have it all apart, clean it up and paint it. Sounds like you need to work on the Auger anyway and it's much easier with it removed from the housing.
The worst thing you can have trying to throw snow is a rusty unit. The snow will stick to the rust and clog up your chute. YOu could consider getting some slip plate paint and paint the auger, inside the housing and the chute. You'll have to redo it every year or 2 but it sure works great. Post some pics when you get a chance.
Did you get the T-handle to rotate your chute from the drivers seat?

 

[dgruber]

the last 147 I picked up has something wrong in the column and wont turn worth a crap (seriously..it won't turn)
I have a parts 147 and need to swap the column over but don't wanna tear the good 147 down any further than I have to..so what is the bare minimum to remove and unbolt to pull a column from a complete tractor?, or am I screwed and stuck tearing it half apart to do this?

 

[nqueensland]

Jerry- Have you tried to move the PTO switch while you are trying to turn your 1450 over? The start circuit runs through this switch and sometimes the Off position doesn't totally close.

 

[aschumacher]

Dan, take the steering wheel off. There is aFAQ if it gives you grief. Take the steering link off the steering box. Remove the 2 cap screws holding the box in place and slide it free. I did it a few years ago, not too bad once steering wheel removed.

 

[bwittman]

Harry,

Around here, anything IH Cub Cadet is way expensive if it can be found at all. Thus, when I could pick up a Q-42A snow thrower for fifty bucks, it would be a buy, unless it was total scrap iron. This one will take some work, but I don't think it is junk. I would have been crazy to have walked away from it, although my immediate use for such a machine is limited.

Yes, I understand the 1250 Nightmare will run it, and perhaps would run it well. Snow removal is hard on our little tractors, because the engines need to be run wide open to lift the snow efficiently. I would rather permanently mount the thrower to a two cylinder 682 or 782. I want to keep the 1250 for my evening cruises and parades. In the long run, that will save a K-series Kohler.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian W., in order to mount your "new" QA42A onto an 82 series Cub Cadet, you will need to swap out the straight upper links for a set of curved links, as the straight links will not clear the cast grill housing of the 82 series. Also, you'll need to swap out the 3/8" wide pulley (sheave) for a 5/8" wide pulley (sheave).

 

[elincoln]

Last Saturday I enjoyed meeting Hydo Harry and Doug Barnett at the Sky Valley tractor show. I took a couple of pictures of the end of the red line of tractors. I took a 127,123 and the green thing with the Haban. The 2nd picture is Dougs 2 cc's, Harrys 169 and Dougs crawler.