Archive through August 10, 2014

[rgfoote]

2006 SLT after I cleaned carb (thanks guys, runs great!)I replaced the drive belt. Now it has a much reduced pulling/pushing performance, and rolls on a hill. before you could not push it down a hill without disengaging the trans with the lever/rod in back. I could move my heavy boat, now the tranny groans without pushing my empty trailer.
Any idea what has happened?

 

[digger]

Russell F.
Not much going to happen on the main forum board that deals with IH made machines, but if you want to ask your question on the CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment section, I'll bet you get a reply.

 

[rgreenly]

Dennis..I couldn't agree with you more about the installation of the anti rattle springs. I think I put the clutch disc in '85 when I restored the tractor so that tells you old it is. Like you said..they are MUCH better than the original stock disc.

 

[nbextermueller]

Wait, are you saying the newer clutch discs are the ones with steel in them?

Cause every "new" disk I've bought has been fiber only. I also had to find a store that has an "old" one on the shelf to get steel inside.

 

[digger]

Nic B.
Quit buying your disc off greedbay and buy OEM!
OEM have steel sandwiched between the fiber part.

PN/IH-384650-R1 961-3002

 

[rgreenly]

Nic...Don't quote me on this...when I got mine some 20 yrs ago, "I think it was a severe duty option at that time". I'm still digging in my "old" parts book from when I worked at the dealership to find the part#.

 

[rgreenly]

Charlie you are the man!! That is exactly what I have. I just need to find out the thickness of a new one to know if mine is wore out.

 

[digger]

Ron G.
The total thickness is 1/4".

 

[dfrisk]

RON - I've seen the friction material glaze over but never really wear enough to effect engagement. I did have one of the very old friction disks that the three pin holes wallowed out a little and rattled more.

NIC - First steel with two sides of bonded friction material clutch disk I installed was 25 yrs ago give-or-take. The last friction disk I bought was several years ago and was still like that.

 

[nbextermueller]

Well, I try to do all my cub shopping at those little colorful boxes at the top of the screen. I don't even have to put my pants on...

But the 2 local places I have wandered into are cub dealers and make a point of stocking alot of the stuff for our older cubs. I remember getting th in an MTD box I think. 2 in the last year for pullers. I gave them back when they were fiber only.

BTW, "no shirt, no shoes, no service" says nothing about pants either.

Lesson learned. Buy from the pros above who are nice enough to keep the lights turned on here!

 

[digger]

Nic B.
Not necessarily from the sponsors, but at least a Cub or Case'IH dealer that knows that there's still good machines out here, LOL

 

[rgreenly]

Thanks for the info Charlie! Hopefully i'll get time this week to measure mine.

 

[joligschlaeger]

Here is a driver plate I replaced this past w/e.

I don't think it ran as long as it should have.
It appears the flex plate portion was a little wavy and comparing it to the orignal plate where the flex plate was firmly against the drive plate itself. I replaced the orignal because of heavy wear on the long drive pin.

 

[dschwandt]

Joe, I had to replace one in my 1200 also last spring. IMHO failure is due to a number of things that when added up all spell doom to that part.

1st of which are loose and sloppy ISO mounts, worn/torn rag joints all of which allow the engine to move around too much, improper adjusted clutch, worn and/or damaged clutch parts, and last but certainly not least... PO/operator abuse.
Other factors I'm sure come into play also.

When I did the 1200, I went the whole route w/all new parts w/the exception of the drive shaft it self. Operates like a new machine now and is my main plow rig, both snow and dirt!!

 

[jbaker]

hmmm Harry and I

don't have them problems on our Hydros

 

[kide]

Nope......got that right,Jeff.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff - Yup, ya got that right

Nice to see Gerry agree

Brian W - did you go look at that adjustable thrower. I didn't see anyone provide you details on how to know if it's adjustable. It's a bit hard to describe and a pic would be worth more than a 1000 words. Maybe Kraig has a pic in the Great Files of Photos.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian W., sorry I didn't see your post until Hydro mentioned it. Here's what to look for. The adjustable width sub-frame snowthrower, the QA36A/QA42A, will have parallel lift links on each side between the sub-frame mount and the auger housing. The non-adjustable QA36/QA42 does not have the parallel lift links, it just has a pivot point at the lower rear of the auger housing where it mounts to the sub-frame. Here's what the adjustable version looks like:

 

[dgallagher]

I am having a problem with my 149 transmission speeding up and slowing down on its own. The control lever seems to be loose, and I have tightened the bracket all the way. The book calls for a bushing, but do I need to pull the handle off and pull the rod out to put the bushing in. Or is there an easy solution? Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, sounds like there are two things going on. First would be a worn trunion slot, see the FAQ entry #14 for info on this. Note that there is more info linked at the bottom of FAQ# 14 and the subsequent links also have more info linked from them. With the loose control lever, I believe there is a plastic bushing in the adjustment setup. It's possible that this bushing is cracked/broken. You can download the service manual that covers the 149 from --->HERE Scroll down to page 78. Note that there were two variants of the control lever friction adjustment.