Archive through August 05, 2013
- Thread starter sblunier
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- Brian Branstetter
A few pics after some cleaning, getting ready for reassembly.
That pile of aluminum is what was left in the bottom of the block from the rod.
Those valve pockets are sure tough to get completely clean
Pump and all its ports were clean
That pile of aluminum is what was left in the bottom of the block from the rod.
Those valve pockets are sure tough to get completely clean
Pump and all its ports were clean
jhillegass
Well-known member
Good afternoon,
A question for the engine wizards.
I have a 149 that has run well for me for about 8 years, but now in the last month, it will occasionally make a bit of rattling noise when I am mowing at WOT going up a grade.....It kind of lugs down a little too.
It sounds to me like a valve noise, the way I remember some older gas truck or car engines may have back in the 60's and 70's.
I just drained the oil and found no metal sticking to the magnet on the oil plug (always worry about the balance gears....)
I run regular grade fuel and a couple ounces of MMO with the 4-gallon can I use for fuel.
Do you have any thoughts on what I might check out?
Thanks
A question for the engine wizards.
I have a 149 that has run well for me for about 8 years, but now in the last month, it will occasionally make a bit of rattling noise when I am mowing at WOT going up a grade.....It kind of lugs down a little too.
It sounds to me like a valve noise, the way I remember some older gas truck or car engines may have back in the 60's and 70's.
I just drained the oil and found no metal sticking to the magnet on the oil plug (always worry about the balance gears....)
I run regular grade fuel and a couple ounces of MMO with the 4-gallon can I use for fuel.
Do you have any thoughts on what I might check out?
Thanks
Steve Blunier
"Mr. Plow
Just looked in a and wow what a fine 100. You have a bunch of great Tractors.I have a 100 ; but not in the same league as yours . I have two many irons in the pot or I would have three repainted by next spring .Seems now I have so much going on. with the mC and trips to Camping in my fiver.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park .(10 hrs of riding in one day lol)
I will have a fun this winter in my shop with lots to keep me going.
"Mr. Plow
Just looked in a and wow what a fine 100. You have a bunch of great Tractors.I have a 100 ; but not in the same league as yours . I have two many irons in the pot or I would have three repainted by next spring .Seems now I have so much going on. with the mC and trips to Camping in my fiver.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park .(10 hrs of riding in one day lol)
I will have a fun this winter in my shop with lots to keep me going.
PSA,
The forum will or could be up and down a little tonight.
The forum will or could be up and down a little tonight.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Don T.
She came a long way from the way I found her.....back in 2001.....whole pile cost me $300!!!!
That 100 currently resides with a good friend.....he really wanted it and I had some other plans for the shed space (2 bottom plow).....didn't hurt that the cat 0 3pt I needed happened to be laying in his garage either
She came a long way from the way I found her.....back in 2001.....whole pile cost me $300!!!!
That 100 currently resides with a good friend.....he really wanted it and I had some other plans for the shed space (2 bottom plow).....didn't hurt that the cat 0 3pt I needed happened to be laying in his garage either
dgallagher
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- David Gallagher
I have just rebuilt the PTO on my 169, even with a new pulley and pressure plate. I think I put it back according to the instructions, using the gauge. However, it wants to grab when I disengage and even holds the motor when I try to start it. Do I have the nuts too tight? Or too loose?
STEVE - I really marvel at those pic's of the 100 in all that snow... "RAMMING SPEED!" That deep of snow would stop my BIG Farmalls!
JERRY H. - The conditions you describe, mowing up hill, sounds like you could be experiencing the exh. valve sticking, but I wouldn't call the change in exhaust tone "Rattling", but the engine does slow down. Running the mower and climbing a hill should take all the slack out of the driveshaft & PTO clutch. It could very well be "Pinging" or "Detonation" like Frank C. says because of the increased load going up the hill if it's very steep. Means you're running too lean. As a quick easy diagnosis step, I'd richen the fuel/air ratio a bit by turning the top screw, main fuel adjusting needle on the carb about 1/8th to 1/4 turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and see if you still have the noise.
Decarbonizing the combustion shamber like Frank C. says could fix it too. Most people remove the head and wire brush the carbon off, but I like using the "Water spray method", where you warm the engine up, run it around 1800-2000RPM with the air filter element removed and spray plain old tap water into the carb throat from a spray bottle. Be careful where the exh. outlet of the engine is pointed, hot carbon particles will come flying out. A pint or so is plenty of water to spray into the engine. Let the engine run for 5-10 minutes after you run out of water, then replace the spark plug with a new plug, change the oil, and see how it runs. The water won't hurt the running engine, it will make it stumble and act like it wants to die, but will clear up quickly. That way you have no chance of hard carbon particles or broken wires from the wire brush getting down between the piston & cyl. walls.
These old flat-head engines are prone to building up carbon in the combustion chambers, WAY too much surface area in them and stagnent air/fuel mixture flow which allows the carbon to collect.
JERRY H. - The conditions you describe, mowing up hill, sounds like you could be experiencing the exh. valve sticking, but I wouldn't call the change in exhaust tone "Rattling", but the engine does slow down. Running the mower and climbing a hill should take all the slack out of the driveshaft & PTO clutch. It could very well be "Pinging" or "Detonation" like Frank C. says because of the increased load going up the hill if it's very steep. Means you're running too lean. As a quick easy diagnosis step, I'd richen the fuel/air ratio a bit by turning the top screw, main fuel adjusting needle on the carb about 1/8th to 1/4 turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and see if you still have the noise.
Decarbonizing the combustion shamber like Frank C. says could fix it too. Most people remove the head and wire brush the carbon off, but I like using the "Water spray method", where you warm the engine up, run it around 1800-2000RPM with the air filter element removed and spray plain old tap water into the carb throat from a spray bottle. Be careful where the exh. outlet of the engine is pointed, hot carbon particles will come flying out. A pint or so is plenty of water to spray into the engine. Let the engine run for 5-10 minutes after you run out of water, then replace the spark plug with a new plug, change the oil, and see how it runs. The water won't hurt the running engine, it will make it stumble and act like it wants to die, but will clear up quickly. That way you have no chance of hard carbon particles or broken wires from the wire brush getting down between the piston & cyl. walls.
These old flat-head engines are prone to building up carbon in the combustion chambers, WAY too much surface area in them and stagnent air/fuel mixture flow which allows the carbon to collect.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Denny,
Hit the pile, knock some snow down behind the blade with a shovel from the top of the bank, drag it out, and do it all over again........
Until dad got the QA-36 for the 100 that was all he could do...... as a kid I remember listening to the 10hp bark under the load of the thrower........
504 with the loader (later replaced by the 684 with 2250 M-O-M loader) would usually step in if it got too rough........or if need be the 1486 with the 9' blade!
Hit the pile, knock some snow down behind the blade with a shovel from the top of the bank, drag it out, and do it all over again........
Until dad got the QA-36 for the 100 that was all he could do...... as a kid I remember listening to the 10hp bark under the load of the thrower........
504 with the loader (later replaced by the 684 with 2250 M-O-M loader) would usually step in if it got too rough........or if need be the 1486 with the 9' blade!
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
John Bennet,
one of our sponsors, Chris Westfall, is in Lancaster, only about 5 inches away from you on my PC screen, SW of columbus... maybe he could help, or know someone who could...
one of our sponsors, Chris Westfall, is in Lancaster, only about 5 inches away from you on my PC screen, SW of columbus... maybe he could help, or know someone who could...
STEVE - I remember getting a couple pretty good snows when we still lived in town in East Moline, IL. The WHOLE neighborhood knew when I was cleaning the driveway w/72 & QA-36! And the K241 had the little pepper shaker muffler! It sure beat a shovel for cleaning the driveway.
I used to really look forward to big snows when we lived on the farm. I knew I could spend ALL DAY on the M moving snow around with the loader. That Stan-hoist loader w/80" wide snow bucket could really make tall piles of snow.
I might use the M for snow duty this winter. See how tall of piles I can make. I had some 3 yrs ago about 8 ft tall with the Super H, but I can get 10 ft with the M I bet. I actully hope we don't get much snow like 2 yrs ago but it pays to plan ahead. Last winter most of the snow around here was really wet and heavy, with the fluid out of the back tires on the <font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font> didn't push snow as well.
I used to really look forward to big snows when we lived on the farm. I knew I could spend ALL DAY on the M moving snow around with the loader. That Stan-hoist loader w/80" wide snow bucket could really make tall piles of snow.
I might use the M for snow duty this winter. See how tall of piles I can make. I had some 3 yrs ago about 8 ft tall with the Super H, but I can get 10 ft with the M I bet. I actully hope we don't get much snow like 2 yrs ago but it pays to plan ahead. Last winter most of the snow around here was really wet and heavy, with the fluid out of the back tires on the <font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font> didn't push snow as well.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis: Not sure if you've ever tried it, but the Sea Foam decarbonizing method (about the same as the water spray) works pretty good, keep spraying it in the carb throat until the motor almost stalls, do that a number of times, then actually kill it with Sea Foam and let it set for a while start it back up and stay away from the muffler while it clears out (LOL)
BTW - I used a (OT) 7 horse MF with a home built snow blade before the 129. plow frame ran all the way under the tractor, pivoted on the back.. It'd stop forward motion in a pile, that's where I learned "Ramming Speed" . Finally split the aluminum transaxle case from too much weight on the rear, too many trips into a frozen snow bank at "Ramming Speed" - had to have the case TIG'd back together, quit abusing it, my son used it for years after that...
BTW - I used a (OT) 7 horse MF with a home built snow blade before the 129. plow frame ran all the way under the tractor, pivoted on the back.. It'd stop forward motion in a pile, that's where I learned "Ramming Speed" . Finally split the aluminum transaxle case from too much weight on the rear, too many trips into a frozen snow bank at "Ramming Speed" - had to have the case TIG'd back together, quit abusing it, my son used it for years after that...
GERRY - I did the same thing with GM Top Engine Cleaner (years before Seafoam was available around here) in the '88 Mustang GT several times. Open the can, stick a football/basketball inflating needle into the end of a pc of 1/4" tubing, put the open end of the tubing in the can of cleaner, then hold the inflating needle up to the throttle valve and open the throttle a little. Best done OUTSIDE, the air moving past the holes in the inflating needle will empty the pint can in under a minute. Same drill as with the water... change plugs and an oil/filter change. But the water is cheaper.... "ALMOST FREE" and works about as well. There will be some carbon deposits left in the combustion chamber, but not much, and nothing where they impede the flow of intake or exh.
