Archive through April 28, 2014

[prtombaugh]

For a Cub Cadet subsoiler, the shank, point and depth would all have to be scaled to match the pulling ability of the tractor. But you can't scale the soil, so I doubt it would be very effective breaking up the hardpan. I have pulled a single shank subsoiler with my International Super W-4 in average soil, running 20 inches deep, and it pulls harder than a 2-16's moldboard plow. Nebraska tests showed the SW-4 to have 4400 pounds of pull. Anybody know the pounds of pull of any particular CC?

 

[prtombaugh]

Since subsoilers and moldboard plows are getting some mention, I guess it would appropriate to post a couple pictures of a Brinly plow I finished up today.

 

[wcompton]

X2 on Steve's point.
Subsoiler draft: weight on drive tires x traction coefficient (assume about .6, or 60% for most soil and tire combinations) is what a cub will pull. With a "proper" 3-point that transfers some weight onto the rear tires, this may influence the numbers, but on this scale the amount is negligible.

Having said that, a true subsoiler breaks up hardpan beneath the soil normally worked. In this case we're talking 10" to 16" depth. On a matter of scale you'd be talking about something working possibly 6" to 8" deep, that could be within the means of something like a single point on a Brinly toolbar in previously worked soil.

 

[thoffman]

Looking good Paul! I'll have to make it over your way soon.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - sounds to me like you did a pretty good clean out on the tank, your cap vent is open, and I believe you said you changed the screen in the filter bowl, so you pretty much got me stumped. The way you cleaned your tank, you would have or should have heard something rattling around, and seem some crud come falling out when it was upside down. Guess you'll have to remove the fueld strainer assemble again and see if there is something in the inlet hole. Someone else mentioned before that you do have to have that fuel shut-off valve open fully so I assume you are doing/did that. It does have a little rubber grommet on it, which has to slide in/out as the shut-off is rotated. Maybe it's come off the little threaded stem and ends up partially blocking the inlet. Guess you could unscrew it fully if you have to and remove the stem, but I never liked to do that. You might have to end up getting a new fuel strainer bowl assembly (I believe Charlie has them) - guess I'd eliminate it fully and just run a direct line first to make sure - but then if there is any crud in the tank it'll end up in the carb again. Your luck ain't been the best here but keep after it and you'll get it right.

Incidentially, that wooden front roller on one of your decks is original. The black hard plastic/rubber is a replacement.

Paul T - now that is a nice IH version moldboard you got there. Real per'ty.

 

[jboelens]

Paul - looks great!
Is that a show piece or will it turn dirt at AJ's Garden tractor Jamboree May 17th?

 

[kshultz]

Paul,
Looks good!

Is that a stainless steel colter on that?

 

[dcmay]

Is it possible for a K321 to kinda run if the timing is off just one tooth?I have one that starts immediately as you touch the key but misses has no power.I have changed everything with components I know are good but result is the same.Fuel system is clean and carb changed with a known good one.Plenty of fuel getting to carb.This is why I suspect a timing issue.

 

[jclazar]

Hydroharry, I would not clean a newly repainted Cub Cadet with the WD-40.... I see a lot of tractor owners clean them using soap and water, compressed air, and a soft cloth.

I use WD-40 on my International 1450 because it will begin to remove any rust. We always kept a 55 gallon drum of WD-40 in the shop, and this is what we used to disassemble and clean the molds, and other machine related parts after any period of a production run. Sometimes that would run for months on end, and we'd have to shut down to service the mold and machine.

I generally just spray the tractor's outside down. I don't make it a point to contact every square inch of the tractor because in short order, your rag becomes absorbed, which allows you to cover area not sprayed. By then, I grab another clean and dry rag because the absorbed rag tends to swirel around and not pick up the grease/dirt dislodged by the WD-40. The clean rag picks it up like no body's business! I usually just wipe down what ever I can reach on the fossil fuel burner, and storage tank.

Tires and rims get a liberal dose, and wiped down as well as the outside perimeter of the voltage regulator! You can mostly tell if you are leaving behind any film, much like if you were using a carnauba wax. I think the warmth of the sun helps the liquid to be absorbed into the metal.

Again, this application would be for non-show International Cub Cadets. If you use the WD-40 sparingly, the tractor does turn out to be rather dry, and dries over the course of a day or two. You may spray your clean rag with the WD-40, and then wipe down your tractor for more of a "dry" approach. But, if your going to be joined up in a plow day, or you plan to wrangle through some heavy dust clouds....its best not to put anything on your tractor before-hand that is going to make dust collect. You will see, that the WD-40 will cut grease, grime, and dirt that plane old soap and water won't touch. I have not noticed and damage or removal of paint on my "work clothes" Cub Cadet. Over the course 8 years that I owned a model 71, I have discovered a great preventative maintenance that will leave your International Cub Cadet respectably clean!

 

[rgreenly]

Paul T. ..Great looking plow!