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Archive through April 28, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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drglinski

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2012
Messages
304
displayname
Daniel Glinski
Never been in your situation pulling a sub soiler; however, does said subsoiler say anything about torque? The single cylinder Kohlers have crazy amounts of torque.
 
Can I be sure this is a #1 tiller? Did IH stamp the A on the #1A tillers? Is there any other way I can tell the difference? Because I do know I have a #1a gear box with the 4 bolt base.

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Michael: Now you've got me curious. What's your subsoiler look like and does it hook to a sleeve hitch?
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Micheal R. - I've never heard of anyone pulling a sub-soiler with a CC, especially one going 18 inches into the ground. Depending on how sandy the ground is and what's on the surface, 8 to 12 inches would be what I'd expect a CC to pull a small subsoiler.

I think pulling something 18 inches deep would tax either one of my full size Farmall's.
 
Michael, it seems to me you could use the 108 and just make several passes. That's what I have to do with my 300 International with a sub soiler. It usually takes two passes to get full depth. And, after I get full depth it's real easy to pull.
 
Thanks, Here is a link to NorthernTool's subsoiler;
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200518051_200518051

It does not have a sleeve. Figuring how to hook it up would have been the next problem. From the spec it does not seem like I have the hp to pull it. So I'm back to square one.

The problem I am trying to solve is the previous owner of my property coverd the entire front yard with landscaping paper then covered it with dirt. I did some test digs to see if I could dig it up but it's deep and there is a lot of it. So I thought to just cut it up and leave it. Hence the subsoiler. I could rent a rear tine tiller but I have a tractor ....
 
Watch some You-tube vids of sub soilers in action, then reconsider your path.......don't see a 108 going 18"......

Might consider renting a small vibratory trencher.......
 
Question about a rear PTO on a 100.
I want to install a tiller on this unit and it os obvious the PTO will have to be removed to do this.

Does the whole unit pull out from the rear without getting into the top side of the gearbox?
I have the rear bolts removed and nothing seems to want to move and I thought it better to gain some advise here than force the issue and bust something.
Thanks!
 
Ready to perform the first Hytran changeout on the 149. Was able to procure 5 gallons of Hytran Ultra for $88. I do have a concern as the fluid that has been slowly leaking out of the hydro looks like regular oil. Any extra steps I should take to make sure the old oil is out before filling and changing the filter? Thanks, Jim
 
Subsoiler: Seems to me that any Cub Cadet that can haul a mouldboard plow can haul a single tooth subsoiler. Now to come up with a subsoiler that attaches to a 3-point sleeve hitch. I can totally agree with the 2 (or more) pass theory and agree that 18" might be a stretch in some soils but I'm betting it's possible in some soils, too.
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David S... I'd really recommend getting a 2nd unit just for tilling then. Or, I'd swap you rearends so you can till.
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Wait.. I have a 122 here that had a rear lift, spring assist on a pto rearend - It may be do-able! I think they had a tiller on the rear.
 
Jim have the front end up so it all drains back and out, also make sure your lift cylider is in.
 
Frank I think your correct,
I can't wait to see a cub sub soiler in action
 
Got the deck all hooked up and leveled... Engine only ran for about 5 minutes though before starving out (plug was dry)

..sigh..

I'll have to pull everything apart again and see if there is gunk in there or something...

I'll also check the timing...

For the fuel bowl I'm wonder if some white pipe tape will help tighten that connection up...

I did get the first cut of the year in on my newer cub buuut bummed the 124 acted up again...

I shall press on!
 
Brian E - when you wash up your tractor make sure the engine is cool, I'd say it should sit at lest a couple hours if you're gonna use a hose and spray it with cold water.

Also - just saw your post about fuel starvation - could be the vent cap on your tank is plugged. Try running your engine with the cap loose for awhile (it will vibrate complete off if you just leave it loose). You'll probably end up removing your gas tank. Wouldn't surprise me if you've got some crud in the bottom that's working it's way over to the outlet and plugging it, or even getting thru and blocking your screen in the glass fuel bowl filter. Hopefully it didn't get into your fuel line and carb.

John L - do you hit the "whole" tractor with the WD40? What about the seat? And when you say leave it for an hour in the sun, then wipe off with clean rags - Is it leaving any film from the WD40? Does it leave a very slippery surface on the entire unit? Are you raising the hood and spraying everything around the engine? The lights? Underside of the hood? Inside the dash, etc.?
And after you're all done and you use it the next time, does it collect dust? Does it leave a sticky dusty surface?
 
Found a new use for my 104, still in it's snow removal garb, snowthrower hanging on the front, wheel weights and chains...works great at mashing ground mole tunnels! I did have it pop out of reverse a couple times while backing up a hill. Any ideas why it did that? Thanks!
 
@Harry: it breathes ok.. by that i mean i put my mouth on the hole an it "breathed" just fine.. ill try it through...

When I tuned up the fuel system I flushed the tank three times (put some fuel in, shook it like hell, drained it... I saw nothing of mention... Again with that baffle in there its hard to see that compartment...

Any recommendations for a more thorough cleaning?

It's gunna be rainy here for the next few days so I'll have a chance to get it it again...
 
Oh and I did want to mention that I tried the radiator hose on the four hood rest points and it worked rather lovely... Sooo much less rattle now =)
 
Frank C.

I would not compare a moldboard plow to a subsoiler.....the rolling action of the board pulls a whole lot easier than the vertical shank, especially deep. You are very weight/traction limited with a Cub Cadet.......
 
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