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Archive through April 27, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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James K.
It's kinda hard to tell from the small pics. Send me a couple BIG pics and we'll go from there.

As far as the gap goes, it depends on if you have the OEM pulley on the unit or not, but a small gap wouldn't make or cause a leak.
 
Don T; Is this the one you're looking for?
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OK, so which of the 3 shades or white shown on the FAQ site would be correct for a 441U1111 mower deck to hang under a QL??

And also would this also be the correct shade for the front clip on a QL?

Thanks?

Dave S.
 
Frank

Thanks for that lol. I have something here you might want to get for when you can`t sit on a Cub seat . I think it would be handy.

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New member here with a question. I have a 1650 and can't pin down a part number for the NAPA specific isolation mounts. I did find the moog p/n K5252, but read the NAPA mounts are better/softer. Also has anyone converted a Ogura pto clutch off a JD 316 to fit the CC ? I did one this weekend and thought some others may be interested. Thanks.
 
Mike,

Welcome!

Those Moog bushings are parts of a replacement anti-sway bar end link for GM Vehicles from about 1971-96. If you look them up in NAPA Online you get 3 results.

MRC 18060 Master Ride Chassis $5.40
NCP 2652048 Optimal Performance $23.40
NCP 2651285 NAPA Chassis Parts $11.25
 
Ken, thanks for the information. I'm anxious to get her running and tearing up some ground!
 
Mike-

If you have four good IH iso mounts you can use them on the bottom and the K5252s on the top. The best way to do the repair is to go back with OEM parts. I think they give the best results plus you can't properly torque the bolts using after market rubbers; they don't have the metal inserts like the OEMs. It's also a good idea to do the rail modification while you have it out. You can find out about that in the FAQs.
 
It is cold here today ,time to get some Cub time in .It`s a good thing I have more than one lol.

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That was way to short for seat time, 8 bags spread and I think I`am crazy to add lime and fertilizer and mow grass .....alot.But a mowed lawn looks so nice!


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Well I turn 60 in a few days and well I think I`am losing it
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. Can`t seem to do anything with out a mishap.

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DON - If you're going to put fertilizer on THAT heavy you need a bigger spreader!
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The BIG spreaders used on farm fields use the PTO to run the spreader fans, but use a wheel driven conveyor on the bottom of the hopper to dispense the fertilizer to them, so when you're sitting still that doesn't happen. Only problem with them is they spread such a wide pattern you end up having to count so many rows from one pass to the next, easy to get off a row or two... maybe three. But it makes them more accurate, you can pull them with a little tractor 3-4 MPH or a BIG tractor 10 MPH and they dispense at the right rate for the speed your pulling them at.

The professional guys for the farm co-op's all use GPS controlled rate monitors, spread at lower rates where the ground is good, and heavier where it's not so good.

I've rented that same model of spreader a couple times to fertilize. We've lived here 20 yrs and I've fertilized three, maybe four times. I spray liquid herbicides for weed control.
 
Finally got some pictures uploaded on my fuel/coil issue last week.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427coil1.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427coil2-tankoncorrectlynewfuelline.jpg

I spoke with a reliable mechanic of 40+ years and he said it looks great. Whatever works; I can put the coil anywhere I want. It works good, and doesn't look bad.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427front.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427leftside.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427rightside.jpg

I still need a cap for the center of the steering wheel. The spray paint lid is annoying. minor cosmetic details...

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427steering.jpg

I found an IH decal that I had for years in a drawer and didn't want to stick on anything because I may have a future use for it. Seems like I made the right decision. I've seen these with and without rear decals, I think it belongs there, and looks good. Lets people know what just passed them when I go by.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427newdecal.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427rearnewIHdecal.jpg

Up next; removal of the locking collar and the rest of the bearing. The locking collar is loosened up just fine but the bearing race will not come off. I can't figure it out..

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/427PTO2.jpg
 
A bit of my CC history if you would like to know..

Dad has been an IH mechanic for the last 45 or so years, and has a bunch of IH stuff at home. In the early 80s, he blew up a MF riding mower and bought a CC 125 that someone rolled. The dash he put on it as a replacement has decals of a 105 and a bent steering wheel, but it is originally a 125 with a 12 HP motor.

After I was born, dad used to do yard work and plop me on the seat. Mom said I would sit there and pretend to drive and not move the whole day. Here is a pic. of me at 18 months. That is dad's H in the background on the right (that he still uses to this day) and the 1st truck I ever owned on the left.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/meon125.jpg

As far as the 125, it was the 1st lawn tractor I learned to operate, and he still owns it. I blew it up 3 times, and dad and I repaired it 3 times.
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About 10 years ago, dad bought a 782 for 100 dollars that needed slight engine help. He still has that, but the motor is in worse shape than the 125. I was never too impressed with the 782; CC's have always been yellow and seeing a red one was weird. I was never too impressed with the v twin either; when the 125 started bogging down with too much grass it was easy to tell when to slow on the hydrostat and let it cut better. With the v twin, it's more difficult for me to hear the change in engine tone, and often times the grass would be flattened and not cut.

Last year, when I moved out, I searched for my own CC and stumbled upon my 147. I like how it's the narrow frame of the 125, similar engine set up as the 125, but with a wider more aggressive look to the rear that the 782 has. I hope I can make my 147 last as long as dad has run his 125.
 
I like the color of yours better Don.

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This was about a month ago liming the garden. I didn't get to it last fall.
 
Dennis Frisk

(DON - If you're going to put fertilizer on THAT heavy you need a bigger spreader!)

All it took was a neighbour to go by and wave lol,
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Jeff B - just catching up on the posting and didn't see a reply to your question. Your K321 should have a site hole for the timing. It may be on the opposite side of the flywheel shroud from your K301. Also, some I've seen have a metal push plug inserted in the hole. Have a look and let us know where you do find it.
 
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#4 has been found. Correct muffler, heat shield, hour meter, ported hydro, manual lift, 13 fin 16hp, and its 12 serial #s older than #3 169. Its missing the air cleaner cover but one has already been found and purchased.

If anyone can't tell...I'm getting serious about collecting 169's.
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William B - that is a sharp paint combination on your 129. The white appears a bit more off white than IH. What is it?

Daniel G - glad to see/hear your 147 is coming along. I'd still recommend moving the plug wire on the outside of the fuel line. In one of your pics it appears the fuel line is actually holding the plug wire down. The plug wire should have a natural routing that will still clear the hood and not interfere with the fuel line. If it tends not to go the right direction then just rotate it (like your coiling the wire) after it connected to either the plug or coil and you'll get it going the correct direction. Once in place and used for awhile it will self form to that fit. With regards to what's left of your PTO bearing, you're gonna have to work it off, probably pry it off. Make sure you get some PB Blaster onto the crankshaft. I know you said the locking collar is loose but make sure it is turned completely in the correct direction or it will still hold on the collar. I suppose another possibility is to cut thru it part way with an angle gringer and then use a chisel to finish splitting it open, but I don't really like pounding on the crankshaft area. If you could grind your slot in alignment with the keyway slot you may be able to grind back to the point of the locking collar and then be able to pry off the bearing collar. You'd need a narrow grinding/cutting wheel.

Don T - last but not least, how come we don't get any pics of the crack in the oil pan?

Ryan Mc (under edit) - you snuck in with NO.4!!!!! Talk about missing the air cleaner cover - it looks like it's been missing for 2 decades. Even the carb looks rusted and it can't be since it's diecast. All I can say is it still doesn't look as bad as mine did when I snagged it. Big Question - I see a little dribble on the lower part of the air cleaner cover - did you try starting it? Does it run?
 
Harry-Yes, it didnt see a lick of time indoors. I sprayed some penetrating oil in the cylinder to loosen things up. I haven't tried starting it, and it probably wont run for a while. Let's just say.....its a project. But, like I tell everyone else...every Cub Ive bought has made it home as a "non runner", but they always seem to get fixed and run pretty decent.
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